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Slideshow (3229 photos)

The long drive back to Pompey in the Vansion (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Studying the guidebook (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Translantic: Funky climbing out of a cave on P1 of Translantic

Enjoying the view from Great Head

Morning Glory: Leslie enjoying sea cliff climbing at its best

Preparing to rappel down over the water at Great Head (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Painting on top of Great Head (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Preparing to rappel at Great Head (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Black Crack: At the start of Black Crack; after we climbed this, we learned that nobody does this route because it was altered by rock fall

Rocky coastline near Otter Cliffs

Home away from home, at the Otter Cliffs parking area

Fingers on a Seascape: Crimpy (and reachy) climbing on great rock

The Precipice, as seen from the road

View from The Precipice, looking towards the ocean

A Dare By the Sea: Following a beautiful crack above the sea, perhaps one of the best routes at Otter Cliffs

Emigrant Crack: One of the better cracks at The Precipice, although one can step left at several points to reduce the pump factor

Adirondack weather (Keene Valley)

North East Ice

Adirondack Rock and River Ice Conditions

New guidebook for the Adirondack Park

The Matrix: The Matrix Epic

The Matrix: The Matrix buttress at Avalanche Lake

The Matrix: Topo of a few routes at Avalanche Lake

3D: Traversing to the belay on the first pitch of 3D

Early morning light over Avalanche Lake

Joe and Will sitting on the ledge below the fin

Unknown: Will leading the leftmost crack on the fin (5.10+)

Sufferin' Succatash: Midway up one of the stellar chimney climbs, right of the rock route "3D"

A Usable Amount: Lots of hard routes on this wall. The most prominent yellow ice is "A Usable Amount", put up by Will

Gate Keeper: Joe on Gate Keeper, just left of the 2nd hitch-up-matilda; we bailed here due to delaminated ice

The Matrix: Matrix wall from high on Scott Decapio's route. Visible are Gold Rush, Fools Gold, and The Matrix. Way to the right are the hangers climbed by Alex Lowe

Matrix Direct, The Other One: My first try on leashless tools; I failed miserably, lowering off just after this point

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones gets established on the ice

Matrix Direct, The Other One: The Matrix with just enough ice to make it climbable

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones places a screw in the better ice

Matrix Direct, The Other One: View of the Matrix; the "other one" starts on the rock between the pines.

Matrix Direct, The Other One: At the top of the M7+ rock section

Matrix Direct, The Other One: High on the upper section

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Cranking through the initial overhanging crack

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones works out the moves on the initial overhanging crack

Gate Keeper: The route Gate Keeper (the thin ribbon on the left) as seen from De Capio's route

Unknown: Climbing a pillar on the east side of Avalanche Pass before one reaches the lake; the climb is broken into two parts -- the initial pillar to a ledge, then a rock overhang

Unknown: Bones climbs thin, poorly protected ice leading to a free-hanging ice column above

Tad's map of Avalanche Lake showing the routes

Keymaster: Jim climbs the first ascent of Keymaster, a mixed route just right of Gatekeeper (Copyright © Simeon Warner)

Dad and Bruce on the summit of Big Slide in the early 1970s (Copyright © Jack Lawyer)

My Favorite Martian: Kristy following John up My Favorite Martian in Cascade Pass

Pete's Farwell: Nikos starting on the third pitch

Posing on the lake after completing Killer Whale

Haggis and Cold Toast: Simeon chimneying up Haggis and Cold Toast in the Beer Walls

H14: George gears up to follow H14

H14: Series 1: Clipping the pin that Joe thankfully placed on the first ascent

H14: Series 2: Delicate moves are required to keep the little remaining ice intact

H14: Series 3: Near the end of the difficulties

Big Brother: Approaching the final free-hanging pillar on Big Brother

Buford: Climbing the initial steep pillar on Buford; this pillar is shared between Bubba, Buford, and Ice Storm

Buford: Moving up the final overhanging smear of ice at the top of the route; the crux of the route is the traverse connecting the pillar of Bubba to the yellow drips on the right

Laceration: Tommy leading the steep ice smear of Laceration

Reunion: Tommy leads the thin lower face that leads to the cave

Reunion: After getting gear in the rock cave, Tommy climbs the crux column

Artificial Gravity: Tommy starts the crux pitch of Artificial Gravity; the pillar on the right side is Power Play

Artificial Gravity: At the top, the ice overhangs; the route finishes by mounting the free-hanging pillar to the right

Unknown: The free-hanging pillar is the crux of this route, although the unprotected climbing above is engaging

Not Likely: Series 1: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

Not Likely: Series 2: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

Not Likely: Series 3: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

Not Likely: Series 4: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

Not Likely: Series 5: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

Not Likely: Series 6: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

The Power Play wall with a few routes labeled

Rhiannon: The Big Brother wall in fat conditions; Big Brother is on the broken ice column on the left, Tommy is on Rhiannon, and Lilith is on the far right. On the orange wall just right of Tommy is the free-hanging column called Not Likely

Reunion: The cave is exited using an ice host that drips on the face to the left; the strip of ice on the right is Laceration

Power Play: Ade climbs the sketchy ice in the center section of Power Play

Runaway Jury: A nice face climb at the Courthouse

Geronimo: Climbing the initial offwidth

Birches at the base of Geronimo -- water color (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Life During Wartime: First free ascent of Life During Wartime, Echo Cliff

The now-famous Unit

Nipple Top from Elk Lake (Copyright © Jack Lawyer)

Staring out into space on the top of Sunrise Mountain near Elk Lake

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: One-arm hang, attempting to rest

Lucky Stars: Jim on the first ascent of Lucky Stars (5.11R) at Good Luck Cliff

Columbus: Mike on the first ascent of a new route right of Cleveland, Good Luck Cliff

Lucky Stars: Bill making the route safer after the first ascent

Mystery Achievement: Will leading the beautiful 5.9 hand crack after a night of heavy partying

Lucky Stars: Bill cleans the route with a wire brush on rappel

Direct South Face: Topping out on the South Face route

Direct South Face: Simon and Lori at the belay on top of pitch 1; the lovely yellow lichen is characteristic of the south face

The south face of Gothics as seen from the summit of Pyramid

Direct South Face: The south face of Gothics as seen from the summit of Pyramid with the 3-pitch 5.9 route described

Left of Passage: Tom climbing around the chockstone on the direct start of Left of Passage

Jim at Heart Lake in 1978

There Be Dragons: Bones approaches the crux roof/corner

There Be Dragons: Stemming through the crux; one more move and he's got a sinker hand jam

Route of Opressive Power: Dennis leads the crux of the route while Jim belays

Route of Opressive Power: Dennis finally nails the crux and struggles with the hand jams above

Dad resting on a bridge near Avalanche Lean-to

Jim hiking in the mid 1970s

Dizzle showing off the singlet

Dizzle starts a lap

Earl hangs out at camp

Posing with Lori

Geriatric Profanity Disorder: Following up GPD in the fall

Apollo Tucker: Simon silhouetted against the sky on Apollo Tucker

Hooligans: Tad, following the second pitch of Hooligans, Hurricane Crag

The gang at the Winter camp, late 70's

Cheese and Crackers: Chris, following Cheese and Crackers, King Wall

Chronic Fixation: John near the second bolt of Chronic Fixation at the King Wall

Cheese and Crackers: Just past the crux on the fragile upper columns

Chronic Fixation: Chris warms up on one of the easier routes at the King Wall

Kingdom Come: Jim belays Chris who is following the second pitch; the traverse is hard, but made easier using chimney moves with your back

Kingdom Come: Jim climbs the first pitch (5.11c) of Kingdom Come; the route continues left, then climbs the broken arching rock rightwards to a belay

Kingdom Come: Closeup of Jim on the first pitch

Unexpected Pleasures: Leading the top section of Unexpected Pleasures on Knob Lock

Lock and Load: Don't Listen to your Friends (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Lock and Load: Ade leading on a cold day with brittle ice

Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish: Martin leading the first ascent of Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish

Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish: Topping out on the crux in thin conditions

Topo of Lock Ness

Lock Ness

Lock and Load: Topo of Lock Ness

Lock and Load: Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load

Lock and Load: Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load

The Best Ice Route in the Philippines: Jim leading the first ascent of The Best Ice Route in the Philippines

Too Early: Simeon leading the first ascent of Too Early on the lower wall of Lock Ness

Camera Trouble: Jim leading in a snow storm on Camera Trouble on the upper wall of Lock Ness

Karen (of the Cliffhanger) preparing to climb at Lock Ness

Creation Of The World: Route description (and beta!) for Creation Of The World on Moss Cliff

Fear of Flying: Leading the offwidth 3rd pitch

Hard Times: High in the corner of the third pitch of Hard Times

Hard Times: Simeon at the top of the chimney pitch, belaying Simon

Crossing the river using a Tyrolean traverse

Falconer: Kevin doing a split at the crux of Falconer

Spirit of Adventure: Climbing the dramatic arete; this crux is moving onto the face (at the level of the gear in the photo), but the top is no giveaway

Creation of the World: Jeremy climbs the thin face past the bolt at the start (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: After placing gear in the corner, Jeremy prepares to layback (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Jeremy places a piece of gear into the expanding flake above the bolt; this gear sucks, and he later removed it (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: After reaching a good hold for the left foot, Jeremy scopes the shallow corner for better protection (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: At the end of the traverse on the 2nd pitch (5.11a), finally able to place some better gear (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Getting established in the hand crack at the end of the traverse on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: The crack turns to wide fists before becoming off-width just above (2nd pitch) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Approaching the hanging cedar on the 2nd pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Joe belays while Jim eats a granola bar (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Eagle Slab: Lucie and Jim on the Summit of Giant after climbing Eagle Slab

Pushing it, after 20 hours (Copyright © Jen Mattson)

On the final lap of the 24-hour race (Copyright © Jen Mattson)

Start of the "24-Hours in the Adirondacks" mountain bike race (Copyright © Jen Mattson)

Waiting at the transition area

Approaching the Palisades across the ice of Lake Champlain from the Vermont side

Drop, Swim, or Die: George and Joe scope out the route from Lake Champlain; the route is in especially fat conditions and is usually approached from the top via rappel

Drop, Swim, or Die: Climbing the crux column low on the route

Drop, Swim, or Die: The second crux climbs the ice above the climber through the constriction in the rock

Lake Champlain Monster: The leftmost route at The Palisades; the ice doesn't reach the bottom, thus the first ascent traversed in from the left; Will climbed a direct start on rock reaching the free-hanging pillars on the right side

Lake Champlain Monster: Jeremy checks out the ice with the "Monster" in the background

For The Birds: Jeremy scopes out the line from the lake; the first ascent of this route occurred earlier this same day

For The Birds: Jeremy climbs the initial ice bulge, using nuts on the right for protection

For The Birds: The crux of the first pitch is a thin ice column protected with rock gear on the sides

For The Birds: With the gear in place, the ice column can be safely climbed

For The Birds: Just above the belay, the climbing is secure, but the ice is melted out and sketchy

For The Birds: George does the third ascent in one long pitch while Jim and Joe watch

Here Come the Pigs: Tom leading the first ascent at Pharaoh Mt.

Tom posing at the base of his new route

Tres Amigos in the road at Poko

Freedom Flight: John high on the third pitch of Freedom Flight

Freedom Flight: John high on the third pitch of Freedom Flight

Goats Foot: Jim low down on Goats Foot, Poko (Copyright © Tad Welch)

Goats Foot: Close-up of Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko

Goats Foot: Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko

Goats Foot Left: Chris and Joe attempting a line left of Goat's Foot

Hidden Pique: Jim high in the Hidden Pique corner, Poko (Copyright © Simeon Warner)

Bushido: Thin steep ice on Bushido, Poko

Midlife Crisis: Joe leading the final column on Midlife Crisis during the second ground-up ascent

Waterfall: Will leading the Poko Waterfall in lean conditions

Positive Thinking: Positive Thinking, as seen from the road in fat conditions (Copyright © Simeon Warner)

Positive Thinking: Jim starting the first pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko

Positive Thinking: Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch

Positive Thinking: Close-up of Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch

Positive Thinking: Simon leading the second pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko

Run for your Life: Simeon leading on the upper tier of Poko

Bushido: John at the base of the Poko Waterfall

Joe with refreshments at the base of Cirrhosis

Son of Slime: Making the traverse on the first pitch of Son of Slime

Son of Slime: Close-up of Jim making the traverse on Son of Slime

Positive Thinking: Ade leading the first pitch of Positive Thinking in fat conditions

Positive Thinking: Ade leading the first pitch of Positive Thinking in fat conditions

Positive Thinking: Dave soloing the lower section of PT in fat conditions

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top crux column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Positive Thinking: Leading the third pitch of PT in thin conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Positive Thinking: Positive thinking from the road; fat conditions

Positive Thinking: Simeon leading the second pitch

Stingray: Stingray, shown using the first pitch of PT

Waterfall: Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead

Waterfall: Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead

Legends contemplate the remaining work on the new routes near Pilgrim's Progress

Lori with her bandage

Legends at the base of Poko

Lori taped and ready to go

Pilgrim's Progress: Jim at the start of the second pitch (yes, those are bolts next to the crack; what you can't see is that the crack is really the left edge of an enormous arrowhead-shaped detached block)

Ancient of Days: Dennis halfway through the overhangs on the last pitch

Ancient of Days: Getting ready to pull through the exit moves on the last pitch

Ancient of Days: Just below the notch that breaks through the overhangs on the last pitch

Ancient of Days: Pulling through the final overhangs

Ancient of Days: About to pull through the final overhangs

Casual Observer: The death of my Nikon 28TI

Morning Star: Straining to pull the final layback move on Morning Star (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

Morning Star: The final pitch of Morning Star climbs a steep face to a layback finish around a bulge (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

Morning Star: Cleaning a nut on the second pitch (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

Thunderhead: Bones works his way out the roof on the second pitch

Thunderhead: Bones climbs through the crux on the second pitch; this picture was taken just prior to falling

Quitting early to help polish off one very large beer

Fastest Gun: At the top of the off-width section on the first pitch

Pilgrim's Progress: Jeremy follows the first pitch (5.10a) of Pilgrim's Progress

Moonshine: Joe places protection in a small cave before moving out onto crappy unconsolidated ice

Moonshine: A few tenuous moves get around the cave

Moonshine: Joe climbs the steeper ice; the crux is just above

Moonshine: Michelle casually follows Moonshine

Positive Thinking: A climber on the first pitch of Positive Thinking in super fat conditions

Dark Lord: Dark Lord in melt-out conditions at Poko's upper tier

Hold the Mayo: Hold the Mayo

Hold the Mayo: Will leading the start of P1, "Hold the Mayo" (WI5+ M6)

Hold the Mayo: Will resting on "Hold the Mayo"

Hold the Mayo: Will higher in the corner on "Hold the Mayo"

Hold the Mayo: Will finally reaches the ice dagger on "Hold the Mayo"

Hold the Mayo: Jim leading pitch 2 of "Hold the Mayo"

Fear of Frogs: Joe solo-aid climbing a route left of Hold the Mayo, Poko Upper Tier

Mechanical Hydraulic Control: Tom seconding the corner left of Fear of Gravity

Your Anus: Tom getting a rest after squeezing through the crux on Your Anus

The Jackal: Setting pro high before climbing the crux; The Jackal overhangs gently for most of its length

The Jackal: With higher gear, Joe moves into the crux once again

The Jackal: Laybacking through the crux

The Jackal: Joe resting before the crux moves on the Jackal

Dark Lord: The opening moves of Dark Lord clims ice under a roof, up into a corner, then onto a free-hanging pillar

Dark Lord: Starting up the steep middle section of the route

Dark Lord: The crux of the route climbs melted ice on black rock. The ice in the corner is shaded and therefore more solid than the ice on the face.

Fear of a Flat Planet: Jeremy leading the huge roof; after this roof, there's a perfect finger crack that leads one into the overhanging rock left-of-center in the photo

Double Diamond: Just before the meat of the climbing on Double Diamond

Double Diamond: Sinking the tips into the this layback crack

Double Diamond: Jeremy clips into gear in the thin crack

Double Diamond: Taking a rest on the left

Double Diamond: Climbing through the crux, Jeremy places more gear

Double Diamond: Grabbing the bucket past the crux

Double Diamond: Final moves to the anchor

Tom and Nona having dessert in the kitchen after a day of ice climbing

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Series 1: Dennis climbs the initial intimidating wall

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Series 2: Starting into the crux finger crack

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Series 3: Struggling with the crux of the route

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Full sequence of Dennis climbing Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Romano's Route: Don climbs the lower crux section of the route

Lucie painting at the Spider's Web

Eternity: Will traversing into the base of the Eternity crack; we bailed here due to wetness

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Belaying at the base of the Web

Drop, Fly, or Die: Colin reaches for gear after the difficult traverse

Drop, Fly, or Die: Colin climbs the steep crack of Drop, Fly, or Die, belayed by Joe

It's Only Entertainment: About midway up the diagonal crack

It's Only Entertainment: Placing gear at midpoint on the diagonal crack

It's Only Entertainment: At the end of the diagonal crack; a couple of pieces here protect the crux left traverse

It's Only Entertainment: Halfway across the crux traverse

Ku Klux Ken: Awkard jams at the start of Ku Klux Ken

Ku Klux Ken: Chris powers through a couple strnuous moves

Ku Klux Ken: Pretty cool pinch hold

Ku Klux Ken: Laybacks near the top

Ku Klux Ken: A long reach; still not there yet

The Apology: On the traverse to the final ice smear

The Apology: Reaching the final ice smear after 80' of dry tooling

The Apology: The final moves up the ice after the traverse

Unknown: Just off the ground, Chris searches for his first placement

Unknown: Joe belays Chris as he attempts a new line

Unknown: Chris places the purple Camalot, the first piece of protection

Unknown: Scanning the rock for a possible line; after this point, Chris aborted the attempt

Where's Karen: Joe climbs the initial section of ice that leads to an overhanging crack; David sets up in the background to shoot The Apology

Jim and John on the way to Cragsmere

Lucie in the canoe near Cragsmere on Upper Chateaugay Lake

Diagonal: Kristy leading on the Diagonal on Wallface

Diagonal: Chris and Simon on the top of the ramp on the Diagonal, Wallface

Mental Blocks: Looking down from the roof pitch of Mental Blocks at Stuart, Roger, and Jim

Mental Blocks: Jim leading the third pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface

Free Ride: Napping on Lunch Ledge, three pitches from the top

Free Ride: Moving into the first crux of the route on the first pitch; unfortunately, the business is right at the start of the route

Free Ride: At the belay on the Shield; these two pitches are some of the best face climbing in the northeast

Free Ride: Dennis leads pitch 4, the first Shield pitch

Free Ride: At the start of pitch 8, the "Endurance Corner"; the climbing here is very sustained, and the rock is a bit grainy

Free Ride: Resting about halfway through pitch 8

Free Ride: At the top of the cliff, the route traverses below a giant roof; a couple of hard [Houdini] moves, combined with awesome exposure, make this pitch a "must do"

Wallface, taken in the early morning from the viewpoint in Indian Pass

Free Ride: Close-up of the route Free Ride on Wallface

Free Ride: The route Free Ride on Wallface

Mental Blocks: Jim leading the second pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface

Weekend Warrior: Shitty Choss Pile From Hell

Master Craft: Joe follows the steep initial pitch of Master Craft (led by Dennis unseen above)

Lucie painting at the Washbowl Cliff, below the route Flashdance

Wind Jammer: Unknown climber high on Wind Jammer, a perfect splitter crack

Polar Soldier: Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier

Polar Soldier: Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier

Yellow Pillars: Joe gets established after the traverse and prepares to climb the overhanging ice above

Yellow Pillars: Climbing into the steeper ice of the crux

Yellow Pillars: Overview showing Bombcicle and Yellow Pillars

Leaping between boulders

Tons of rock, like J-Tree but without all the gorgeous desert plant life

Muffy: Easy face climbing on plates with cool orange lichen

Puzzling out the routes in the Corridor

Belaying in the Corridor

Pangborn: Starting up Pangborn, one of the longer routes at the Hills

Pangborn: Dancing up the face

Pangborn: Looking like an ant on the face, Tommy runs up the endless plates to the anchor

Call of the Canyon: Old school Tommy sport climbing…yeah boy!

Call of the Canyon: Resting at a good handhold

Call of the Canyon: Resting at a good handhold

Beautiful Alabama Hills

Hang 'Em High: Crimping at the start of Hang 'Em High

Hang 'Em High: More crimps through the crux

Hang 'Em High: Grabbing for a draw

Hang 'Em High: The route finishes in a crack

High Plains Drifter: Palming low down on the route (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

High Plains Drifter: Thin crimps at the crux (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

High Plains Drifter: Sweet face climbing with high steps (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Unknown: Looking down after the difficulties

Unknown: Climbing the perfect splitter hand crack

Unknown: Posing after the difficult initial hand crack

Parking in the boulder field in front of the crag

The "Upper Wall" of the Alimosa River Canyon

Making shadows at sunset

Tommy's truck parked next to a giant boulder

Gearing up for another crack climb

Unknown: Following an awesome hand crack

Sorry, no pictures available

Rapping the largest waterfall, Big Angel; there are a bunch of route possibilities here

Unknown: The easier line at Little Angel

Unknown: Going through a small, unprotected roof

Unknown: Clearing the roof

Preparing to climb Little Angel

Rapping Little Angel; we led two routes here, one directly under the rappeller, and one to the right

Sorry, no pictures available

Appalachian Trail Conference

Tracy and Jim at the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail -- Springer Mountain

Tracy and Jim relaxing after a day of hiking; notice the paper towels, Sierra Club cups, and prototype Marmot bivy sacks

Posing for the camera somewhere in Georgia

Tracy and Pete crossing the Kennebec…naked

Jim and Tracy take a refreshing dip in Frye Brook (Copyright © Tracy Pierce)

Relaxing in New Hampshire

Reprovisioning in Tennessee

Tracy at camp somewhere in Tennessee; by this time, we ditched the bivys in place of a prototype Early Winters single-wall Gortex tent

Tracy carrying a monster load in a Trailwise frame pack, somewhere in the deep south

Taking pictures in Vermont

lean-to somewhere in Vermont

Tired boy in Virginia

This is what happens with lots of exercise and insufficient calories

We hiked the Appalachian Trail when I was 15

Travels in Oz

View of Arapiles from a distance

Watch out for Kangaroos

A stumpy in the campground

Resignation: Ade leading the first pitch of Resignation

Bard Buttress in the early morning light

Bouldering in the early morning light

Kangaroo bouncing around beneath the Bard

Resignation: Jim leading steep rock on Resignation

Resignation: Ade and Martin at the belay on Resignation

Resignation: Martin at a belay on Resignation

Resignation: Ade following the second pitch of Resignation

Street life in Natimuk

Didgeridoo: Ade leading the first pitch of Didgeridoo

Organ Pipes in the early morning light

Tanin: Leading the top pitch of Tanin

Lamplighter: Ade following the last pitch of Lamplighter

Lamplighter: Jim and Martin at the top of the Pharos after completing Lamplighter

Lamplighter: Ade rapping off the Pharos after completing Lamplighter

Arachnus: Ade following the top pitch of Arachnus

Arachnus: Martin at the third belay of Arachnus

Chinese Algebra: Jim at the crux of Chinese Algebra, one of the hardest routes we did at Arapiles

Voodoo: Margin leading Voodoo

Lots of arches, seen from the road

Navajo Arch, got to hike to see this one

Another cool arch, also have to hike to see it

Roadside rock, all balanced and stuff

Scene of the "incident"; cool arch, too many people (had to photoshop them out)

Jumble of redish rocks called the Fiery Furnace; pretty cool

Big span, amazing this is still standing

Lunch in the olive grove near the base of the routes

Hanging out at the cliffs near Nago

Riva Del Garda

Extensive limestone cliffs at Nago

Thin curved house in Nago

Narrow streets in Nago

Equinox: Sport climbing on great limestone

The Fire Spire: Colin follows the first pitch, belayed from above by Tom, just before a major storm hit

The Fire Spire: Tommy and Colin gearing up at the base of the spire

The Fire Spire: Tom leading the first pitch of the spire

People waiting for the bus in Bangkok

Martin and Lucie on the dive boat

Filipino children

East Ridge: Tom hiking towards the Bear's Tooth

East Ridge: The Bear's Tooth, up close and personal after 9 miles of approach

East Ridge: Tom on the 4th class slabs just below the south face of the Bear's Tooth spire

The Touareg in use -- early morning at the camp spot in Beaver Creek

The Eye of the Needle formation, just right of center

Batteries Not Included: Belaying Tommy on P1, enjoying the first sun in days (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Batteries Not Included: Rappelling through the "eye" of the needle at the top of Batteries Not Included (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Batteries Not Included: Rappelling through the "eye" of the needle at the top of Batteries Not Included (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Batteries Not Included: Gearing up at the base of the route

Fording the stream to get to the Eye of the Needle formation; very cold

Batteries Not Included: Tom leading P1, slightly off route. The "eye" after which the formation is named is visible above him.

Batteries Not Included: Colin and Tommy at the belay in front of the "eye"

Batteries Not Included: Colin follows P1 of Batteries Not Included; crisp limestone

Batteries Not Included: Colin follows P1 of Batteries Not Included; crisp limestone

Batteries Not Included: Colin rappels through the "eye"

The Eye of the Needle formation

The Ben as seen from the CIC hut (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Climbers gearing up at the CIC hut; Jim is the tall one in the orange top (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

On the approach to the CIC hut (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

The Ben, as seen from about half way on the approach. Too bad you can't drive up this far. (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

The Ben as seeon from the approach (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Gear explosion in our tiny room above a pub in Fort William (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Pretty river on the Ben (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Lots of routes here - the Buachaille Etive Mor (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Lots of routes here - the Buachaille Etive Mor (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Descending the Ben toward the Red Burn area

Point Five Gully: Eric in a mess of ropes after topping out

Point Five Gully: Standing on the summit plateau after topping out

Point Five Gully: A view of Point Five Gully on the approach. The route follows the obvious deep gully on the left.

Point Five Gully: Jim on the steep snow fields on the approach to the base of the route. Our ascent was the first for the year, so we were breaking trail. (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Point Five Gully: Leading the first pitch, which was a friable crust over rock (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Point Five Gully: Unknown Italian climbers attempting to pass (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Point Five Gully: Self portrait of Eric, cold and unhappy, but loving life (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Point Five Gully: The final belay before topping out (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Point Five Gully: Breaking through the cornice onto the flat summit plateau (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Point Five Gully: White out on the summit; Jim is the tall person on the right (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Point Five Gully: Eric standing next to the emergency shelter (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Descending off the summit through intermetent white out (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Descending from the col back into the valley (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Descending from the col back into the valley (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Descending from the col back into the valley (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

View of the Ben while descending from the summit (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

View of the Ben while descending from the summit (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Approaching the CIC hut after the descent; things starting to clear up (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

A view of the mountains on the drive up from Glasgow (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Unknown: Pretty much the only boulder we could climb; we suck

Shredded hands from 31 straight days of climbing

West Face: Slab at the top of P3

West Face: Nearing the top of P3, Lake Sabrina in the background

West Face: Leading P4 in the rain

West Face: View of the Bishop Creek valley from the top of P1

Cardinal Pinnacle, as seen from the dirt road on the other side of the valley

West Face: In a warm puffy jacket at the P2 belay, Aspendell in the background; the vansion is parked in the pullout on the road above Colin's head

Scenic Cruise: Jim's beta for Scenic Cruise

The view downstream from North Chasm View

Russian Arete: Looking upstream from Russian Arete, near the bottom

Russian Arete: Looking upstream from Russian Arete, near the bottom

Russian Arete: Looking upstream from Russian Arete, near the top of the route

Russian Arete: Chris at the bottom of the route

Inconceivable: Avoiding the snow in the high country, we retreated to Blacktail Butte and climbed a couple routes (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Inconceivable: Steep, polished limestone at Blacktail Butte (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Rocks littering the field near our camp site

Our camp spot next to large boulders. Too bad there's ticks.

Cows graze nearby our camp site

Scoping out the topouts of the routes on Elk Rock (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Rock hoping around the top of Elk Rock

Colin on top of large boulder

Awesome views off the back side of Elk Rock

Book of Payne: Tommy climbs the excellent corner crack on the Jedi Wall

Unknown: Good, well protected climbing at the "top rope area"; at least it's out of the wind. (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Rat King: Big buckets on steep rock, but piggin' cold (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Rat King: Big buckets on steep rock, but piggin' cold (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Sitting in a tree above the ocean after emerging from Crystal Cave

Lucie being blown by the wind at sunset (she's actually doing a handspring)

Martin and Eric are comfortable with their naked-ness

Sunset at Puka Beach; for some reason, this beach seems always empty

Pretty sailboat and men repainting a boat hull at low tide

Climbing Boulder

Unknown: Fanni belays Adrian on some route; Adrian is about to make the crux moves

Lucie and Jim on the boat somewhere in the Caribbean

Murray in his element, sailing in the British Virgin Islands

Murray and Kyoko on the boat

Hanging out in the van at a City of Rocks campsite

Store in Almo

Hiking around Castle Rock

Red Rib: Starting out on Red Rib, which I thought was pretty hard for the grade

South face of Castle Rock

Pretty rainbow during one of the frequent showers

Mantel Dynamics: The most over bolted route on the planet, we had to back clean draws to make it to the top

Comp Rock, the other "big" rock at Castle Rocks

Comp Rock again, named for a rock climbing competition that occurred here

Sleeping under an overhanging wall, waiting out the rain

Climbing Moab

Utah Climbers

A labeled view of the Rectory and other towers from Castleton Tower

North Face: Casey climbs the sustained big-hands crack on the first pitch; the route climbs through the roof above, then underclings right on slippery calcite

North Face: Looking up from the second belay, Casey climbs the first off-width section on the third pitch

A view of the north face of Castleton Tower; the North Chimney climbs the depression on the sunny side of the tower

View of the Rectory as seen from Castleton Tower

Closeup view of the Rectory as seen from Castleton Tower

North Face: Jim and Casey pose at the top of Castleton Tower after climbing the North Face

A view of the north face of Castleton Tower

Castleton Tower, the Rectory, The Nuns, and The Priest as seen from the parking area

North Face: A topo of the North Face of Castleton Tower

North Face: Looking down from the crux of the second pitch at Casey who is belaying below

Colin prepares to descend after bailing on Jah Man due to high winds

Diedre: Popping veins

Dresden: Reaching for the upper crack in Dresden; the climb ascents Nutcracker for a bit, then moves leftwards into the crux Dresden crack

Coal Kill Falls: The only easy route in the Kitchen

Boney hanging out in the Kitchen

Mephisto Waltz: Bones dances up the wet and drippy Mephisto Waltz

The Window: Joe climbs steep ice on "The Window"

The Window: Climbing the upper ice above the window; the route "The Advocate" is the yellow column to his left

Gomorrah: At the start of the route in brilliant sunshine

Gomorrah: High in the corner; you can see the bolts protecting the route (!?!?)

Some routes in the Hell Hole

View of fish stand, laundry, and woman with child, taken from the top of the jeepney as we passed through the town of Banaue on our way to Batad

View of a sea of tricycles taken from the top of the jeepney as we passed through the town of Banaue on our way to Batad

Have scotch will travel -- this is the jeepney we hired to travel from Banaue to Sagada

Driver that took us to Sagada

Rice terraces between Banga-an and Tanulong

The jeepney on the way to Batad became stuck, so we all grabbed our stuff and continued on foot

Rice terraces, traditional houses, and a carabao in the town of Batad

Lucie in front of a traditional Ifugao house in the town of Batad

Rice terraces and some traditional huts in Batad; we passed this on our way to Tapplya Waterfall

Sitting at Simon's, looking out over the rugged Batad valley and its rice terraces

View of the rugged Batad valley and its rice terraces

Emiliano working on a bulul carving

Exploring the rice terraces near town

To prepare the rice patty, a woman pulls weeks, then pushes them deep into the mud to rot

Clear water pounds over the waterfall; the ferns on the rock walls of the amphitheatre undulated from the wind created by the falling water

Black Bishop

Black Bishop

Black King

Black King

Black Kinght

Black Kinght

Black Pawn

Black Pawn

Black Queen

Black Queen

Black Rook

Chess set

Chess set

Chess set

White Bishop

White Bishop

White King

White King

White Knight

White Knight

White Pawn

White Pawn

White Queen

White Queen

White Rook

Chess set

The kamagong chess set

Street stall selling chickens and other raw meats

A group of people decide to butcher their carabao using one lane of the road

The entrance to Lumiang Cave, stuffed with over 100 coffins, some of which are more than 500 years old

Unknown: We regretted not bringing our rock gear to Sagada, as there is plenty of interesting limestone towers to climb, like this one in Echo Valley

View of coffins hanging on a cliff face in Echo Valley

View of coffins hanging on a cliff face in Echo Valley

Unhappy carabao

Lucie plants rice with Gloria, a native of Tanulong

A man and his grandson take a break from working in the rice terraces

A man turns up the soil in a rice patty using a carabao (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Desnivel -- Lists of climbing areas in Spain

Hiking through olive groves to the crag

Cordura Dura: Jen climbs a warmup route at a hidden crag near Yaén

La Ley Del Deseo: Jen climbs a sandbag route in the late afternoon light; there's no way this route is 6b

The private climbing gym at the alpine school; an awesome place to spend a snowy afternoon

Mike and Laurv in Servoz where we stayed

Crappy photo of Mt. Blanc, the only view of the mountain we had during our 2-week trip

On our last day, the sky cleared enough for us to see the surrounding peaks

The alpinism school in Chamonix

The headquarters for all that is alpine

La Pomme D'or: La Pomme d'Or

La Pomme D'or: View of the route on the approach

La Pomme D'or: Will simul-climbing the first two pitches

La Pomme D'or: Will leading the 4th pitch

La Pomme D'or: Looking up at the 4th pitch with a cool mixed chimney on the left

La Pomme D'or: Will following the crux 5th pitch

La Pomme D'or: Will leading the 6th pitch

La Pomme D'or: Roland's sled from hell

La Pomme D'or: Will leading the 7th pitch

South-West Ridge, North Nesakwatch Spire: Pulling up to the ledge at the end of the second pitch

South-West Ridge, North Nesakwatch Spire: Leading the cracks on the headwall on the seventh pitch

Approaching the talus basin on Mt. Rexford

Preparing to leave for Mt. Rexford early in the morning

South-West Ridge, North Nesakwatch Spire: On the summit of North Nesakwatch Spire

West Ridge, Mt. Rexford: On the summit of Mt. Rexford, looking west

Looking down at the Nesakwatch Spires from the summit of Mt. Rexford

Rexford mountain range with labels, taken from the bivy on the Northeast Buttress of Mt. Slesse

Northeast Buttress: Story written about our climb on the Northeast Buttress of Slesse

Northeast Buttress: Simon at the bivy on Slesse

Northeast Buttress: Evening sun over the Illusion Peaks, Nesakwatch Spires, and Mt. Rexford

Northeast Buttress: Triumph on Slesse with Simon's glasses half eaten by rats

Slesse panorama with labels; taken from the summit of Mt. Rexford

Chilliwack mountains

Northeast Buttress: The summit of Mt. Slesse as seen from the east

Whymper's Route (South-West Ridge): Summit of Chimborazo, 6310m

Lucie, modeling above 16,000 feet

Animal Cracker: Tommy shows his stuff at the start of Animal Cracker

Animal Cracker: Tommy approaches the offwidth section

Colossus: Moving through the initial bulge on big jugs

Colossus: Chalking up at the initial bulge; this section is pretty easy because of the large holds…the crux is moving through the hueco near the top of the route

Bumblie Takes a Tumblie: Bev lowers from the anchors with colorful fall foliage in the background

New York Is Not The City: Climbing nice patina holds at the top of the route

New York Is Not The City: Crimpy changeover in order to make the clip

New York Is Not The City: Reach for the jug

Terror in Tiny Town: The start of the route is the mental crux, as one has to layback up the arete on small holds (protected by an RP), shooting for the obvious pocket, clip a bolt on the left, then make long reaches up the arete to better holds

Terror in Tiny Town: Jim grabs the better holds at the start of the route; the technical crux lies above

Beverly, at breakfast, makes assignments for the day

Camp at the City

Lucie cooks yummy chicken stew at camp

Lucie has an art show at camp

Relaxing at camp talking about the upcoming '04 election

Tommy and Michelle drinking…how about a beer?

The Pygmies Got Stoned: Tommy and Michelle show off their hair

The Pygmies Got Stoned: Contemplating the next move

Quest For Fire: Laybacking and stemming up the side of the hueco allows one to reach a high jug

Morning Glory: Michelle makes the weird crimpy layback with the palm dyno at the end of the second pitch

Lucie paints the colorful foliage near Parking Lot Rock

Michelle and Beverly hike into the area behind Parking Lot Rock

Delay of Game: Our first route at the City -- a casual face climb up a rib of rock

Tow Away Zone: Michelle does a split at the crux

Sabbatical: Tommy belays Jim on Sabbatical

Looking out towards the Sisters from the top of Redtail on Rabbit Rock

Redtail: The crux of the route is moving past the first bolt, shown here

Redtail: Getting established just past the crux after the first bolt

Redtail: Michelle reaches the top of Redtail

Looker: Michelle clips a bolt

Looker: Crimpy holds on Looker

I can't Believe It: Michelle traverses 30' into the start of the route while John and Andrew spot

South Creek as seen from Flaming Rock; Bumblie Rock is just right of center

South Creek as seen from Flaming Rock; Bumblie Rock is right of center and Slabbage Patch is left of center

Intruding Dike: Tommy and Michelle climbing in the cold morning wind

View from our van, parked on the road that traverses the top of Cochiti Mesa

Wandering around in the rain, which happened every day of our trip (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Colin sketches in the van waiting out the rain (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Finally the sun; we ran out and climbed a few routes before dark

Open Mouth Syndrome: Perplexed by a sea of pockets at the start of the route

Open Mouth Syndrome: Typical pocket at Cochiti

Open Mouth Syndrome: Typical pocket at Cochiti

The Prow: Sending the super-overhanging Prow

View from the descent to the South Cliffband

The Prow: Pulling the crux on big jugs

View from the Vista Point Overlook

COLDFEAR -- Conditions in Cody

First Ascent Press -- Source for the guidebook to the area

From the end of Hunter Creek Road, we approached Mean Green and other routes in the Majo Ranch area

Mean Green: Jim climbs the first pitch (WI4) of Mean Green, belayed by Tommy; the second pitch can be seen above

Mean Green: Joe climbs the third pitch of Mean Green (WI4); the pitches here are separated by several hundred meters of easy scrambling up the drainage

Mean Green: Joe climbs the crux pitch of Mean Green (WI5), belayed by Tommy

Mean Green: The route Mean Green as seen from the approach gully

We climbed this route despite that it was falling apart around us

The busy ski town of Cormeyeur; very pretty, but very busy

A helicopter lowers a person to the ridge during training exercises

Danger sign at the top of the cliff

Jet Stream: Eric traversing left to the belay at the top of P1

A lizard we saw on the hike out

Another lizard we saw on the hike out

Lots of towers as seen from the road near the visitor's center

Pipe Organ Spire (left) and Organ Pipe Spire

Kissing Couple, as seen from the top of Indepdence Monument

We nearly walked into some sheep on the way out…really!

Otto's Route: Starting up the third pitch easy chimney

Otto's Route: Pulling the final move onto the summit

Otto's Route: The final rappel off Independence Monument

Otto's Route: At the belay below the summit

Independence Monument as seen from the rim; the Kissing Couple is to the left, Rainbow Tower behind, and Grand View Spire to the right

Independence Monument as seen from the approach trail; looks narrow and overhanging from this angle

Otto's Route: A nice spot at the belay at the top of the second pitch (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Otto's Route: The fourth pitch face climb, made easy by the drilled stances (thanks Otto) (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Otto's Route: Bomber anchor in sandstone

Otto's Route: Nice to see our president getting out

Otto's Route: Colin's signature in the summit register

Otto's Route: Some goodies we found in the summit register box

Otto's Route: Massive runout up to the capstone

Otto's Route: Ahhhh…protection; notice the drilled stances up the face above him

Otto's Route: Hard pulling over the overhang leads to a good ledge and fixed anchor

Otto's Route: Woo hoo

Otto's Route: Starting up the first pitch of Otto's Route

Tom showing off his new hand plane

Tommy and Joe wait for their laundry

The "Mother Ship" in the early morning light

Returning to the "Mother Ship" after a day climbing

Chowing down in the "Mother Ship"

Tommy's fine craftmanship on display in the center of his 18-sided house

The "Mother Ship" is a cordwood masonery house made using wood cut from forest service land in East Rosebud Canyon

Tommy happy out on the range

Tommy's new project -- a 10x20 barn

Entry way sign welcoming Nona, his wife

Colin trying to look all buff and stuff

Inside of the Mother Ship

Another view inside the Mother Ship

Awesome Montana sky

Overview of Tommy's compound

Driver's helper; this young boy taught us how to chew cocoa leaves

Southwest Face, Normal Route: High camp

Southwest Face, Normal Route: Suiting up for the glacier to high camp

Southwest Face, Normal Route: Llamas carrying gear to base camp at Laguna Negra

Southwest Face, Normal Route: Illampu (6368m) in Bolivia, taken from high on the ridge on Ancohuma (Copyright © Chris Wurster)

Southwest Face, Normal Route: Arrival in Cocoyo

Southwest Face, Normal Route: Establishing base camp

Southwest Face, Normal Route: View of mountains from base camp

Southwest Face, Normal Route: Ancohuma (6427m) From Camp I. The climbing route we attempted ascends the ice fall to the rght of the picture onto the glacial plateau above.

Southwest Face, Normal Route: A view of Ancohuma (6427m) from high camp at 5600m. The climbing route we attempted crosses the glacial cirque towards the peak, then traverses right to a snowy ramp that is climbed to a plateau. From the plateau, the route turns left traversing to the base of a steep face, which is ascended up to the summit ridge, which is followed to the top. (Copyright © Simeon Warner)

Southwest Face, Normal Route: Enjoying the sunset at Camp I (Copyright © Simeon Warner)

Southwest Face, Normal Route: One of the boys we hired to drive the llamas