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Slideshow (281 photos)

Adirondack weather (Keene Valley)

North East Ice

Adirondack Rock and River Ice Conditions

New guidebook for the Adirondack Park

The Matrix: The Matrix Epic

The Matrix: The Matrix buttress at Avalanche Lake

The Matrix: Topo of a few routes at Avalanche Lake

3D: Traversing to the belay on the first pitch of 3D

Early morning light over Avalanche Lake

Joe and Will sitting on the ledge below the fin

Unknown: Will leading the leftmost crack on the fin (5.10+)

Sufferin' Succatash: Midway up one of the stellar chimney climbs, right of the rock route "3D"

A Usable Amount: Lots of hard routes on this wall. The most prominent yellow ice is "A Usable Amount", put up by Will

Gate Keeper: Joe on Gate Keeper, just left of the 2nd hitch-up-matilda; we bailed here due to delaminated ice

The Matrix: Matrix wall from high on Scott Decapio's route. Visible are Gold Rush, Fools Gold, and The Matrix. Way to the right are the hangers climbed by Alex Lowe

Matrix Direct, The Other One: My first try on leashless tools; I failed miserably, lowering off just after this point

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones gets established on the ice

Matrix Direct, The Other One: The Matrix with just enough ice to make it climbable

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones places a screw in the better ice

Matrix Direct, The Other One: View of the Matrix; the "other one" starts on the rock between the pines.

Matrix Direct, The Other One: At the top of the M7+ rock section

Matrix Direct, The Other One: High on the upper section

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Cranking through the initial overhanging crack

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones works out the moves on the initial overhanging crack

Gate Keeper: The route Gate Keeper (the thin ribbon on the left) as seen from De Capio's route

Unknown: Climbing a pillar on the east side of Avalanche Pass before one reaches the lake; the climb is broken into two parts -- the initial pillar to a ledge, then a rock overhang

Unknown: Bones climbs thin, poorly protected ice leading to a free-hanging ice column above

Tad's map of Avalanche Lake showing the routes

Keymaster: Jim climbs the first ascent of Keymaster, a mixed route just right of Gatekeeper (Copyright © Simeon Warner)

Dad and Bruce on the summit of Big Slide in the early 1970s (Copyright © Jack Lawyer)

My Favorite Martian: Kristy following John up My Favorite Martian in Cascade Pass

Pete's Farwell: Nikos starting on the third pitch

Posing on the lake after completing Killer Whale

Haggis and Cold Toast: Simeon chimneying up Haggis and Cold Toast in the Beer Walls

H14: George gears up to follow H14

H14: Series 1: Clipping the pin that Joe thankfully placed on the first ascent

H14: Series 2: Delicate moves are required to keep the little remaining ice intact

H14: Series 3: Near the end of the difficulties

Big Brother: Approaching the final free-hanging pillar on Big Brother

Buford: Climbing the initial steep pillar on Buford; this pillar is shared between Bubba, Buford, and Ice Storm

Buford: Moving up the final overhanging smear of ice at the top of the route; the crux of the route is the traverse connecting the pillar of Bubba to the yellow drips on the right

Laceration: Tommy leading the steep ice smear of Laceration

Reunion: Tommy leads the thin lower face that leads to the cave

Reunion: After getting gear in the rock cave, Tommy climbs the crux column

Artificial Gravity: Tommy starts the crux pitch of Artificial Gravity; the pillar on the right side is Power Play

Artificial Gravity: At the top, the ice overhangs; the route finishes by mounting the free-hanging pillar to the right

Unknown: The free-hanging pillar is the crux of this route, although the unprotected climbing above is engaging

Not Likely: Series 1: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

Not Likely: Series 2: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

Not Likely: Series 3: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

Not Likely: Series 4: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

Not Likely: Series 5: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

Not Likely: Series 6: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

The Power Play wall with a few routes labeled

Rhiannon: The Big Brother wall in fat conditions; Big Brother is on the broken ice column on the left, Tommy is on Rhiannon, and Lilith is on the far right. On the orange wall just right of Tommy is the free-hanging column called Not Likely

Reunion: The cave is exited using an ice host that drips on the face to the left; the strip of ice on the right is Laceration

Power Play: Ade climbs the sketchy ice in the center section of Power Play

Runaway Jury: A nice face climb at the Courthouse

Geronimo: Climbing the initial offwidth

Birches at the base of Geronimo -- water color (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Life During Wartime: First free ascent of Life During Wartime, Echo Cliff

The now-famous Unit

Nipple Top from Elk Lake (Copyright © Jack Lawyer)

Staring out into space on the top of Sunrise Mountain near Elk Lake

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: One-arm hang, attempting to rest

Lucky Stars: Jim on the first ascent of Lucky Stars (5.11R) at Good Luck Cliff

Columbus: Mike on the first ascent of a new route right of Cleveland, Good Luck Cliff

Lucky Stars: Bill making the route safer after the first ascent

Mystery Achievement: Will leading the beautiful 5.9 hand crack after a night of heavy partying

Lucky Stars: Bill cleans the route with a wire brush on rappel

Direct South Face: Topping out on the South Face route

Direct South Face: Simon and Lori at the belay on top of pitch 1; the lovely yellow lichen is characteristic of the south face

The south face of Gothics as seen from the summit of Pyramid

Direct South Face: The south face of Gothics as seen from the summit of Pyramid with the 3-pitch 5.9 route described

Left of Passage: Tom climbing around the chockstone on the direct start of Left of Passage

Jim at Heart Lake in 1978

There Be Dragons: Bones approaches the crux roof/corner

There Be Dragons: Stemming through the crux; one more move and he's got a sinker hand jam

Route of Opressive Power: Dennis leads the crux of the route while Jim belays

Route of Opressive Power: Dennis finally nails the crux and struggles with the hand jams above

Dad resting on a bridge near Avalanche Lean-to

Jim hiking in the mid 1970s

Dizzle showing off the singlet

Dizzle starts a lap

Earl hangs out at camp

Posing with Lori

Geriatric Profanity Disorder: Following up GPD in the fall

Apollo Tucker: Simon silhouetted against the sky on Apollo Tucker

Hooligans: Tad, following the second pitch of Hooligans, Hurricane Crag

The gang at the Winter camp, late 70's

Cheese and Crackers: Chris, following Cheese and Crackers, King Wall

Chronic Fixation: John near the second bolt of Chronic Fixation at the King Wall

Cheese and Crackers: Just past the crux on the fragile upper columns

Chronic Fixation: Chris warms up on one of the easier routes at the King Wall

Kingdom Come: Jim belays Chris who is following the second pitch; the traverse is hard, but made easier using chimney moves with your back

Kingdom Come: Jim climbs the first pitch (5.11c) of Kingdom Come; the route continues left, then climbs the broken arching rock rightwards to a belay

Kingdom Come: Closeup of Jim on the first pitch

Unexpected Pleasures: Leading the top section of Unexpected Pleasures on Knob Lock

Lock and Load: Don't Listen to your Friends (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Lock and Load: Ade leading on a cold day with brittle ice

Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish: Martin leading the first ascent of Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish

Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish: Topping out on the crux in thin conditions

Topo of Lock Ness

Lock Ness

Lock and Load: Topo of Lock Ness

Lock and Load: Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load

Lock and Load: Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load

The Best Ice Route in the Philippines: Jim leading the first ascent of The Best Ice Route in the Philippines

Too Early: Simeon leading the first ascent of Too Early on the lower wall of Lock Ness

Camera Trouble: Jim leading in a snow storm on Camera Trouble on the upper wall of Lock Ness

Karen (of the Cliffhanger) preparing to climb at Lock Ness

Creation Of The World: Route description (and beta!) for Creation Of The World on Moss Cliff

Fear of Flying: Leading the offwidth 3rd pitch

Hard Times: High in the corner of the third pitch of Hard Times

Hard Times: Simeon at the top of the chimney pitch, belaying Simon

Crossing the river using a Tyrolean traverse

Falconer: Kevin doing a split at the crux of Falconer

Spirit of Adventure: Climbing the dramatic arete; this crux is moving onto the face (at the level of the gear in the photo), but the top is no giveaway

Creation of the World: Jeremy climbs the thin face past the bolt at the start (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: After placing gear in the corner, Jeremy prepares to layback (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Jeremy places a piece of gear into the expanding flake above the bolt; this gear sucks, and he later removed it (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: After reaching a good hold for the left foot, Jeremy scopes the shallow corner for better protection (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: At the end of the traverse on the 2nd pitch (5.11a), finally able to place some better gear (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Getting established in the hand crack at the end of the traverse on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: The crack turns to wide fists before becoming off-width just above (2nd pitch) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Approaching the hanging cedar on the 2nd pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Joe belays while Jim eats a granola bar (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Eagle Slab: Lucie and Jim on the Summit of Giant after climbing Eagle Slab

Pushing it, after 20 hours (Copyright © Jen Mattson)

On the final lap of the 24-hour race (Copyright © Jen Mattson)

Start of the "24-Hours in the Adirondacks" mountain bike race (Copyright © Jen Mattson)

Waiting at the transition area

Approaching the Palisades across the ice of Lake Champlain from the Vermont side

Drop, Swim, or Die: George and Joe scope out the route from Lake Champlain; the route is in especially fat conditions and is usually approached from the top via rappel

Drop, Swim, or Die: Climbing the crux column low on the route

Drop, Swim, or Die: The second crux climbs the ice above the climber through the constriction in the rock

Lake Champlain Monster: The leftmost route at The Palisades; the ice doesn't reach the bottom, thus the first ascent traversed in from the left; Will climbed a direct start on rock reaching the free-hanging pillars on the right side

Lake Champlain Monster: Jeremy checks out the ice with the "Monster" in the background

For The Birds: Jeremy scopes out the line from the lake; the first ascent of this route occurred earlier this same day

For The Birds: Jeremy climbs the initial ice bulge, using nuts on the right for protection

For The Birds: The crux of the first pitch is a thin ice column protected with rock gear on the sides

For The Birds: With the gear in place, the ice column can be safely climbed

For The Birds: Just above the belay, the climbing is secure, but the ice is melted out and sketchy

For The Birds: George does the third ascent in one long pitch while Jim and Joe watch

Here Come the Pigs: Tom leading the first ascent at Pharaoh Mt.

Tom posing at the base of his new route

Tres Amigos in the road at Poko

Freedom Flight: John high on the third pitch of Freedom Flight

Freedom Flight: John high on the third pitch of Freedom Flight

Goats Foot: Jim low down on Goats Foot, Poko (Copyright © Tad Welch)

Goats Foot: Close-up of Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko

Goats Foot: Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko

Goats Foot Left: Chris and Joe attempting a line left of Goat's Foot

Hidden Pique: Jim high in the Hidden Pique corner, Poko (Copyright © Simeon Warner)

Bushido: Thin steep ice on Bushido, Poko

Midlife Crisis: Joe leading the final column on Midlife Crisis during the second ground-up ascent

Waterfall: Will leading the Poko Waterfall in lean conditions

Positive Thinking: Positive Thinking, as seen from the road in fat conditions (Copyright © Simeon Warner)

Positive Thinking: Jim starting the first pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko

Positive Thinking: Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch

Positive Thinking: Close-up of Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch

Positive Thinking: Simon leading the second pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko

Run for your Life: Simeon leading on the upper tier of Poko

Bushido: John at the base of the Poko Waterfall

Joe with refreshments at the base of Cirrhosis

Son of Slime: Making the traverse on the first pitch of Son of Slime

Son of Slime: Close-up of Jim making the traverse on Son of Slime

Positive Thinking: Ade leading the first pitch of Positive Thinking in fat conditions

Positive Thinking: Ade leading the first pitch of Positive Thinking in fat conditions

Positive Thinking: Dave soloing the lower section of PT in fat conditions

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top crux column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Positive Thinking: Leading the third pitch of PT in thin conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Positive Thinking: Positive thinking from the road; fat conditions

Positive Thinking: Simeon leading the second pitch

Stingray: Stingray, shown using the first pitch of PT

Waterfall: Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead

Waterfall: Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead

Legends contemplate the remaining work on the new routes near Pilgrim's Progress

Lori with her bandage

Legends at the base of Poko

Lori taped and ready to go

Pilgrim's Progress: Jim at the start of the second pitch (yes, those are bolts next to the crack; what you can't see is that the crack is really the left edge of an enormous arrowhead-shaped detached block)

Ancient of Days: Dennis halfway through the overhangs on the last pitch

Ancient of Days: Getting ready to pull through the exit moves on the last pitch

Ancient of Days: Just below the notch that breaks through the overhangs on the last pitch

Ancient of Days: Pulling through the final overhangs

Ancient of Days: About to pull through the final overhangs

Casual Observer: The death of my Nikon 28TI

Morning Star: Straining to pull the final layback move on Morning Star (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

Morning Star: The final pitch of Morning Star climbs a steep face to a layback finish around a bulge (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

Morning Star: Cleaning a nut on the second pitch (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

Thunderhead: Bones works his way out the roof on the second pitch

Thunderhead: Bones climbs through the crux on the second pitch; this picture was taken just prior to falling

Quitting early to help polish off one very large beer

Fastest Gun: At the top of the off-width section on the first pitch

Pilgrim's Progress: Jeremy follows the first pitch (5.10a) of Pilgrim's Progress

Moonshine: Joe places protection in a small cave before moving out onto crappy unconsolidated ice

Moonshine: A few tenuous moves get around the cave

Moonshine: Joe climbs the steeper ice; the crux is just above

Moonshine: Michelle casually follows Moonshine

Positive Thinking: A climber on the first pitch of Positive Thinking in super fat conditions

Dark Lord: Dark Lord in melt-out conditions at Poko's upper tier

Hold the Mayo: Hold the Mayo

Hold the Mayo: Will leading the start of P1, "Hold the Mayo" (WI5+ M6)

Hold the Mayo: Will resting on "Hold the Mayo"

Hold the Mayo: Will higher in the corner on "Hold the Mayo"

Hold the Mayo: Will finally reaches the ice dagger on "Hold the Mayo"

Hold the Mayo: Jim leading pitch 2 of "Hold the Mayo"

Fear of Frogs: Joe solo-aid climbing a route left of Hold the Mayo, Poko Upper Tier

Mechanical Hydraulic Control: Tom seconding the corner left of Fear of Gravity

Your Anus: Tom getting a rest after squeezing through the crux on Your Anus

The Jackal: Setting pro high before climbing the crux; The Jackal overhangs gently for most of its length

The Jackal: With higher gear, Joe moves into the crux once again

The Jackal: Laybacking through the crux

The Jackal: Joe resting before the crux moves on the Jackal

Dark Lord: The opening moves of Dark Lord clims ice under a roof, up into a corner, then onto a free-hanging pillar

Dark Lord: Starting up the steep middle section of the route

Dark Lord: The crux of the route climbs melted ice on black rock. The ice in the corner is shaded and therefore more solid than the ice on the face.

Fear of a Flat Planet: Jeremy leading the huge roof; after this roof, there's a perfect finger crack that leads one into the overhanging rock left-of-center in the photo

Double Diamond: Just before the meat of the climbing on Double Diamond

Double Diamond: Sinking the tips into the this layback crack

Double Diamond: Jeremy clips into gear in the thin crack

Double Diamond: Taking a rest on the left

Double Diamond: Climbing through the crux, Jeremy places more gear

Double Diamond: Grabbing the bucket past the crux

Double Diamond: Final moves to the anchor

Tom and Nona having dessert in the kitchen after a day of ice climbing

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Series 1: Dennis climbs the initial intimidating wall

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Series 2: Starting into the crux finger crack

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Series 3: Struggling with the crux of the route

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Full sequence of Dennis climbing Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Romano's Route: Don climbs the lower crux section of the route

Lucie painting at the Spider's Web

Eternity: Will traversing into the base of the Eternity crack; we bailed here due to wetness

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Belaying at the base of the Web

Drop, Fly, or Die: Colin reaches for gear after the difficult traverse

Drop, Fly, or Die: Colin climbs the steep crack of Drop, Fly, or Die, belayed by Joe

It's Only Entertainment: About midway up the diagonal crack

It's Only Entertainment: Placing gear at midpoint on the diagonal crack

It's Only Entertainment: At the end of the diagonal crack; a couple of pieces here protect the crux left traverse

It's Only Entertainment: Halfway across the crux traverse

Ku Klux Ken: Awkard jams at the start of Ku Klux Ken

Ku Klux Ken: Chris powers through a couple strnuous moves

Ku Klux Ken: Pretty cool pinch hold

Ku Klux Ken: Laybacks near the top

Ku Klux Ken: A long reach; still not there yet

The Apology: On the traverse to the final ice smear

The Apology: Reaching the final ice smear after 80' of dry tooling

The Apology: The final moves up the ice after the traverse

Unknown: Just off the ground, Chris searches for his first placement

Unknown: Joe belays Chris as he attempts a new line

Unknown: Chris places the purple Camalot, the first piece of protection

Unknown: Scanning the rock for a possible line; after this point, Chris aborted the attempt

Where's Karen: Joe climbs the initial section of ice that leads to an overhanging crack; David sets up in the background to shoot The Apology

Jim and John on the way to Cragsmere

Lucie in the canoe near Cragsmere on Upper Chateaugay Lake

Diagonal: Kristy leading on the Diagonal on Wallface

Diagonal: Chris and Simon on the top of the ramp on the Diagonal, Wallface

Mental Blocks: Looking down from the roof pitch of Mental Blocks at Stuart, Roger, and Jim

Mental Blocks: Jim leading the third pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface

Free Ride: Napping on Lunch Ledge, three pitches from the top

Free Ride: Moving into the first crux of the route on the first pitch; unfortunately, the business is right at the start of the route

Free Ride: At the belay on the Shield; these two pitches are some of the best face climbing in the northeast

Free Ride: Dennis leads pitch 4, the first Shield pitch

Free Ride: At the start of pitch 8, the "Endurance Corner"; the climbing here is very sustained, and the rock is a bit grainy

Free Ride: Resting about halfway through pitch 8

Free Ride: At the top of the cliff, the route traverses below a giant roof; a couple of hard [Houdini] moves, combined with awesome exposure, make this pitch a "must do"

Wallface, taken in the early morning from the viewpoint in Indian Pass

Free Ride: Close-up of the route Free Ride on Wallface

Free Ride: The route Free Ride on Wallface

Mental Blocks: Jim leading the second pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface

Weekend Warrior: Shitty Choss Pile From Hell

Master Craft: Joe follows the steep initial pitch of Master Craft (led by Dennis unseen above)

Lucie painting at the Washbowl Cliff, below the route Flashdance

Wind Jammer: Unknown climber high on Wind Jammer, a perfect splitter crack

Polar Soldier: Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier

Polar Soldier: Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier

Yellow Pillars: Joe gets established after the traverse and prepares to climb the overhanging ice above

Yellow Pillars: Climbing into the steeper ice of the crux

Yellow Pillars: Overview showing Bombcicle and Yellow Pillars