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Slideshow (752 photos)

The Matrix: The Matrix Epic

Sufferin' Succatash: Midway up one of the stellar chimney climbs, right of the rock route "3D"

Matrix Direct, The Other One: My first try on leashless tools; I failed miserably, lowering off just after this point

Keymaster: Jim climbs the first ascent of Keymaster, a mixed route just right of Gatekeeper (Copyright © Simeon Warner)

Posing on the lake after completing Killer Whale

H14: Series 1: Clipping the pin that Joe thankfully placed on the first ascent

H14: Series 2: Delicate moves are required to keep the little remaining ice intact

H14: Series 3: Near the end of the difficulties

Big Brother: Approaching the final free-hanging pillar on Big Brother

Buford: Climbing the initial steep pillar on Buford; this pillar is shared between Bubba, Buford, and Ice Storm

Buford: Moving up the final overhanging smear of ice at the top of the route; the crux of the route is the traverse connecting the pillar of Bubba to the yellow drips on the right

Unknown: The free-hanging pillar is the crux of this route, although the unprotected climbing above is engaging

Runaway Jury: A nice face climb at the Courthouse

Life During Wartime: First free ascent of Life During Wartime, Echo Cliff

Staring out into space on the top of Sunrise Mountain near Elk Lake

Lucky Stars: Jim on the first ascent of Lucky Stars (5.11R) at Good Luck Cliff

Direct South Face: Topping out on the South Face route

Jim at Heart Lake in 1978

Route of Opressive Power: Dennis leads the crux of the route while Jim belays

Jim hiking in the mid 1970s

Posing with Lori

Geriatric Profanity Disorder: Following up GPD in the fall

The gang at the Winter camp, late 70's

Cheese and Crackers: Just past the crux on the fragile upper columns

Kingdom Come: Jim belays Chris who is following the second pitch; the traverse is hard, but made easier using chimney moves with your back

Kingdom Come: Jim climbs the first pitch (5.11c) of Kingdom Come; the route continues left, then climbs the broken arching rock rightwards to a belay

Kingdom Come: Closeup of Jim on the first pitch

Unexpected Pleasures: Leading the top section of Unexpected Pleasures on Knob Lock

Lock and Load: Don't Listen to your Friends (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish: Topping out on the crux in thin conditions

Lock and Load: Topo of Lock Ness

Lock and Load: Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load

Lock and Load: Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load

The Best Ice Route in the Philippines: Jim leading the first ascent of The Best Ice Route in the Philippines

Too Early: Simeon leading the first ascent of Too Early on the lower wall of Lock Ness

Camera Trouble: Jim leading in a snow storm on Camera Trouble on the upper wall of Lock Ness

Fear of Flying: Leading the offwidth 3rd pitch

Creation of the World: At the end of the traverse on the 2nd pitch (5.11a), finally able to place some better gear (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Getting established in the hand crack at the end of the traverse on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: The crack turns to wide fists before becoming off-width just above (2nd pitch) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Approaching the hanging cedar on the 2nd pitch (5.11a) (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: Joe belays while Jim eats a granola bar (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Eagle Slab: Lucie and Jim on the Summit of Giant after climbing Eagle Slab

Pushing it, after 20 hours (Copyright © Jen Mattson)

On the final lap of the 24-hour race (Copyright © Jen Mattson)

Drop, Swim, or Die: Climbing the crux column low on the route

Drop, Swim, or Die: The second crux climbs the ice above the climber through the constriction in the rock

For The Birds: Just above the belay, the climbing is secure, but the ice is melted out and sketchy

For The Birds: George does the third ascent in one long pitch while Jim and Joe watch

Tres Amigos in the road at Poko

Goats Foot: Jim low down on Goats Foot, Poko (Copyright © Tad Welch)

Goats Foot: Close-up of Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko

Goats Foot: Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko

Hidden Pique: Jim high in the Hidden Pique corner, Poko (Copyright © Simeon Warner)

Bushido: Thin steep ice on Bushido, Poko

Positive Thinking: Jim starting the first pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko

Positive Thinking: Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch

Positive Thinking: Close-up of Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch

Son of Slime: Making the traverse on the first pitch of Son of Slime

Son of Slime: Close-up of Jim making the traverse on Son of Slime

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top crux column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Positive Thinking: Leading the third pitch of PT in thin conditions (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Pilgrim's Progress: Jim at the start of the second pitch (yes, those are bolts next to the crack; what you can't see is that the crack is really the left edge of an enormous arrowhead-shaped detached block)

Ancient of Days: Pulling through the final overhangs

Ancient of Days: About to pull through the final overhangs

Morning Star: Straining to pull the final layback move on Morning Star (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

Morning Star: The final pitch of Morning Star climbs a steep face to a layback finish around a bulge (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

Morning Star: Cleaning a nut on the second pitch (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

Hold the Mayo: Hold the Mayo

Dark Lord: The opening moves of Dark Lord clims ice under a roof, up into a corner, then onto a free-hanging pillar

Dark Lord: Starting up the steep middle section of the route

Dark Lord: The crux of the route climbs melted ice on black rock. The ice in the corner is shaded and therefore more solid than the ice on the face.

Jim and John on the way to Cragsmere

Mental Blocks: Looking down from the roof pitch of Mental Blocks at Stuart, Roger, and Jim

Mental Blocks: Jim leading the third pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface

Free Ride: Napping on Lunch Ledge, three pitches from the top

Free Ride: At the top of the cliff, the route traverses below a giant roof; a couple of hard [Houdini] moves, combined with awesome exposure, make this pitch a "must do"

Puzzling out the routes in the Corridor

Pangborn: Dancing up the face

High Plains Drifter: Palming low down on the route (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

High Plains Drifter: Thin crimps at the crux (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

High Plains Drifter: Sweet face climbing with high steps (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Unknown: Looking down after the difficulties

Unknown: Climbing the perfect splitter hand crack

Unknown: Posing after the difficult initial hand crack

Making shadows at sunset

Tracy and Jim at the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail -- Springer Mountain

Tracy and Jim relaxing after a day of hiking; notice the paper towels, Sierra Club cups, and prototype Marmot bivy sacks

Jim and Tracy take a refreshing dip in Frye Brook (Copyright © Tracy Pierce)

Relaxing in New Hampshire

Taking pictures in Vermont

Tired boy in Virginia

This is what happens with lots of exercise and insufficient calories

We hiked the Appalachian Trail when I was 15

Travels in Oz

Bouldering in the early morning light

Resignation: Jim leading steep rock on Resignation

Tanin: Leading the top pitch of Tanin

Lamplighter: Jim and Martin at the top of the Pharos after completing Lamplighter

Chinese Algebra: Jim at the crux of Chinese Algebra, one of the hardest routes we did at Arapiles

Batteries Not Included: Belaying Tommy on P1, enjoying the first sun in days (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Batteries Not Included: Rappelling through the "eye" of the needle at the top of Batteries Not Included (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Batteries Not Included: Rappelling through the "eye" of the needle at the top of Batteries Not Included (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Climbers gearing up at the CIC hut; Jim is the tall one in the orange top (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

On the approach to the CIC hut (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Descending the Ben toward the Red Burn area

Point Five Gully: Standing on the summit plateau after topping out

Point Five Gully: Jim on the steep snow fields on the approach to the base of the route. Our ascent was the first for the year, so we were breaking trail. (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Point Five Gully: Leading the first pitch, which was a friable crust over rock (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Point Five Gully: The final belay before topping out (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Point Five Gully: Breaking through the cornice onto the flat summit plateau (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Point Five Gully: White out on the summit; Jim is the tall person on the right (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Descending off the summit through intermetent white out (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Descending from the col back into the valley (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Descending from the col back into the valley (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Descending from the col back into the valley (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Inconceivable: Avoiding the snow in the high country, we retreated to Blacktail Butte and climbed a couple routes (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Inconceivable: Steep, polished limestone at Blacktail Butte (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Scoping out the topouts of the routes on Elk Rock (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Unknown: Good, well protected climbing at the "top rope area"; at least it's out of the wind. (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Road Goes On Forever: Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Rat King: Big buckets on steep rock, but piggin' cold (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Rat King: Big buckets on steep rock, but piggin' cold (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Sitting in a tree above the ocean after emerging from Crystal Cave

Sunset at Puka Beach; for some reason, this beach seems always empty

Lucie and Jim on the boat somewhere in the Caribbean

North Face: Jim and Casey pose at the top of Castleton Tower after climbing the North Face

Coal Kill Falls: The only easy route in the Kitchen

Mephisto Waltz: Bones dances up the wet and drippy Mephisto Waltz

Gomorrah: At the start of the route in brilliant sunshine

Gomorrah: High in the corner; you can see the bolts protecting the route (!?!?)

Have scotch will travel -- this is the jeepney we hired to travel from Banaue to Sagada

Exploring the rice terraces near town

Unknown: We regretted not bringing our rock gear to Sagada, as there is plenty of interesting limestone towers to climb, like this one in Echo Valley

La Pomme D'or: La Pomme d'Or

South-West Ridge, North Nesakwatch Spire: On the summit of North Nesakwatch Spire

West Ridge, Mt. Rexford: On the summit of Mt. Rexford, looking west

Northeast Buttress: Triumph on Slesse with Simon's glasses half eaten by rats

Colossus: Moving through the initial bulge on big jugs

Colossus: Chalking up at the initial bulge; this section is pretty easy because of the large holds…the crux is moving through the hueco near the top of the route

Terror in Tiny Town: The start of the route is the mental crux, as one has to layback up the arete on small holds (protected by an RP), shooting for the obvious pocket, clip a bolt on the left, then make long reaches up the arete to better holds

Terror in Tiny Town: Jim grabs the better holds at the start of the route; the technical crux lies above

Redtail: The crux of the route is moving past the first bolt, shown here

Redtail: Getting established just past the crux after the first bolt

Wandering around in the rain, which happened every day of our trip (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Colin sketches in the van waiting out the rain (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Finally the sun; we ran out and climbed a few routes before dark

Mean Green: Jim climbs the first pitch (WI4) of Mean Green, belayed by Tommy; the second pitch can be seen above

Otto's Route: A nice spot at the belay at the top of the second pitch (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Otto's Route: The fourth pitch face climb, made easy by the drilled stances (thanks Otto) (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Southwest Face, Normal Route: Suiting up for the glacier to high camp

Expedition photo taken by a local in the town of Cocoyo (taken during the trek back from base camp to Sorata)

Looking east from the summit of the Divinio, showing the lower Sella valley and the Mediterranean Sea beyond

Ojo de Odra: Clipping the first bolt; the route continues out the mouth of the cave at 6c

Jim and John hiking near Sella

Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour: The whole crew, after completing the route

Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour: Getting read to rap down to the base of the routes by the sea; notice the collection of Wild Country #3 rocks used for the ENP casings

Normal Route: Leaving the drop-off point for the hike to the Whymper Refugio (Copyright © Ali Schultheis)

Dracula: High on Dracula in thin conditions

Sudor y Sangre: Climbing a beautiful orange corner system

Sudor y Sangre: Climbing a beautiful orange corner system

The gang poses on the Inca Trail

Group on day 3 of the Inca Trail (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Southeast Ridge: Sitting around base camp

Southeast Ridge: Arriving at base camp

Southeast Ridge: Fiddling with gear at base camp

Southeast Ridge: Setting up a belay on the Southeast Ridge

In the airplane waiting for takeoff

Reading the guidebook, scoping out routes (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Tulgey Wood: At the top of the first pitch (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Travels with Johnny

Jim descending the Sella Towers

Warpaint: The second pitch (5.8) of Warpaint (the only easy pitch on the route)

Warpaint: Looking down at Jim (top of P2) and Eric (top of P3) from the middle of the fourth pitch (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

Warpaint: Jim leading from the belay on the fifth pitch of Warpaint; the crux of this pitch is just before the photo was taken (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

Moby Dick: Jim and Dennis hanging out on the summit of Whale Dome after completing the ascent

Moby Dick: Eric and Jim hanging out at the belay at the top of the fourth pitch

Moby Dick: Shadow puppets on the summit of Whale Dome

California Ice: Starting the first pitch (WI4) of California Ice

California Ice: The third pitch (WI3) goes to the right of the cave and up to easier ice

El Diablos Path: Jim at the third belay of El Diablos Path

Blackballed: Jug pulling on a steep, beautiful wall (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Nordwand: At the belay after a terrifying lead, the scariest of the trip (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Nordwand: Roping up for what turned out to be the scariest lead of the trip (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Südwand: Approaching the belay at the end of the first pitch; notice the furry runner around the large flake (the furrier the better) (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Goldsteigkante: Topping out on the second pitch (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Belaying from the top of another tower (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Goldsteigkante: The start of the route involved very pocketed rock with good pro (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Goldsteigkante: Moving through the super featured rock on the first pitch (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Südwand: Looking back at the second pitch, a traversing affair with many tied off flakes and threads

Südwand: Starting up the second pitch -- a bit of a run after the first bolt (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Südwand: A long pitch of runout crack climbing, but with good plates on the face. The chimney topout was terrifying (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Dinner in the basement of the town hall; pretty good food, but not as good as in Velden

Türkischer Honig: Leaning back on jugs near the top of the route (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Talweg: High on the wall at a hanging belay (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Talweg: Feeling stoked after leading the first pitch (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Talweg: At the second belay…cold as hell (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Talweg: Removing a thread on the third pitch (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Talweg: On the third pitch (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Talweg: On the third pitch (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Talweg: The 4th and final pitch involved leaning across to the next tower, then climbing the face (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Talweg: Traverse just before the topout (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Talweg: Working on some pro -- a threaded runner (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Talweg: Looking down from the first belay at the super featured rock and intricate protection

Talweg: Starting up the overhanging wall -- a real head game (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Talweg: Looking up at the second pitch -- many tied off threads (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Talweg: Roping up below the 300'-high overhanging wall with…you guessed it…knots (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Herkules Rippe: Following the first pitch on yet another pigging cold day (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Herkules Rippe: Approaching the belay (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Südhangel: Following the first pitch, leaning way back on a flake (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Südwestverschneidung: Belaying at the top of the Lokomotive; notice the ring and "towel rack" bar to prevent the rope from creating deep grooves in the rock (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Südwestverschneidung: Writing my entry in the route book (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Talweg: Making the crux moves at the start of the route -- an overhanging offwidth crack protected by jammed knots, the first knots I placed in Elbsandstein (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Morgengebet: An overhanging handcrack; the crux was the slopey, sandy moves after the crack (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Ostkante: Browsing the route book (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Ostkante: Huge jugs at the top of the route (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Darkness 'Til Dawn: Climbing the beautiful corner of Darkness

Darkness 'Til Dawn: The corner of Darkness 'Til Dawn; actually takes wide gear in the face on the right

The Grand Course: Climbing the overhanging hand crack at the start of The Grand Course

Blind Faith: Sequence of pictures showing climbing through the crux of Blind Faith

Blind Faith: Climbing though an awkward bulge below the crux crack

Blind Faith: Placing gear into the crux crack

Blind Faith: Jamming through the final steep crack

Black Dike: The Black Dike (Copyright © Ade Miller)

Black Dike: Climbers Meet the Fuck Man

Whitney-Gilman: Jim on the Whitney-Gilman in 1986

Black Dike: Jim, just after the rock traverse on the Black Dike

Bennedictus Direct: Pulling the monster roof on the 5th pitch (Copyright © David Le Pagne)

Bennedictus Direct: Climbing the slab below the overlap on the 5th pitch (Copyright © David Le Pagne)

Bennedictus Direct: Nabbing the jug in the roof on the 5th pitch (Copyright © David Le Pagne)

Bennedictus Direct: Approaching the overlap on the 5th pitch (Copyright © David Le Pagne)

Bennedictus Direct: At the belay at the start of the 4th pitch, scoping out the pitch ahead (Copyright © Brian Post)

Bennedictus Direct: Following the 4th pitch (Copyright © Brian Post)

Bennedictus Direct: Taking a photo as Will leads the 4th pitch (Copyright © Brian Post)

Westriss: A beautiful crack climb reminiscent of the Dolomites (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Hiding from the rain in a cave at the base of the Napoleon tower (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Büberriss: Pretty cool climbing down low, but an unprotected chimney up high (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Sauwetter: Lowering off a super steep climb at the end of the day (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Descending a section of the classic Joe's Ridge

Another section of the classic Joe's Ridge

Approaching the mine shaft; no, we didn't go in it, especiallty after The Descent (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Approaching God's Crag (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Descending in the rain through a grove of aspens; we picked up a hundred ticks here (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Fear is Never Boring: Cool face climbing on the first pitch (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Fear is Never Boring: Self portrait, belaying in the rain

The morning after the big bash…everyone is drinking water to treat the hangover

Falling Ross: Nearing the top of P2 (Copyright © Emilie Drinkwater)

Falling Ross: Delicate moves onto the slippery slab at the top of P2 (Copyright © Emilie Drinkwater)

P.V.O. (Potomac Valley Overhang): Jim on PVO, TRing something way to hard

Street life in Guangzhou (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Jim on ferry going up the Pearl River (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

Boogie boarding in the surf, somewhere on the north shore (Copyright © John Lawyer)

Aimless wandering through the compact canyon, trying to identify things (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Melt Down: Not much difference between the 11s and the 9s on this wall (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Melt Down: Not much difference between the 11s and the 9s on this wall (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

The Arete: Jim at the belay on Catastrophe (Copyright © Eric Gregory)

The Arete: Jim at the belay on Catastrophe

Squid Kid: Climbing the beautiful compact rock on Squid Kid

The Maze: Face climbing on the Maze, a long bolted line on Monitor Rock

Enjoying a mini-bottle of single malt at camp

Thunderbolts: Sitting on top of Easter Island after climbing Thunderbolts

Thunderbolts: Climbing the first pitch (5.8) involves fun jamming, followed by an unlikely traverse right around the nose above

Hanging out at the base of Easter Island

Thunderbolts: Jim's shadow on Sunflower Tower as he raps from Easter Island

Generic Crack: Starting out on Generic Crack; the crux of the route are the two pods just above

Generic Crack: About halfway up the crack

Generic Crack: Closeup of Jim about halfway up the crack

Generic Crack: Still about halfway up the crack

Generic Crack: Nearing the anchors at 140'

Anunnaki: This awesome zig-zag crack goes through all sizes, taking two each from yellow Camalot to yellow Alien; this section is fairly easy since the crack is hand sized

Anunnaki: At this point, the crack narrows to off-hands and rattley fingers

Anunnaki: Moving through the crux involves weird layaways, finger stacks, and powerful pulls

Skidmarks: Laybacking up the steep finger crack on Skidmarks

Sabbatical: Jamming the final crack high in the Sabbatical corner, belayed by Brian

Working Man: This nice finger crack was easier for me since my large knuckles cammed well in the crack

Some rough 4X4 driving on Davis Canyon Road leads into the South Six Shooter valley

Bad Rad Duality Crack: Moving through the bottom finger-sized section of the route

Bad Rad Duality Crack: Moving through the bottom finger-sized section of the route; the crack widens to tight hands, then offwidth, then back to tight hands through the double-tiered roofs above

The Incredible Hand Crack: Jim climbs The Incredible Hand Crack, belayed by Brian; most people find this climb a pleasure, but my large large hands didn't fit the crack and made the crux overhanging section very strenuous

Unnamed #18: What a beast this was -- a 7" off-width section, then a blind reach rightwards into a good finger crack

Unnamed #18: After placing a nut (the only nut I placed that trip), I finally got established in the finger crack

Unnamed #18: Closeup of Jim after placing the nut

Unnamed #18: Higher in the finger crack

It's In, Man: Traversing to the belay on a new route

It's In, Man: At the belay on the first ascent

It's In, Man: Jim climbs poorly bonded ice on the first ascent

Over The Rainbow: Leading the first ascent of a flow across from Rainbow Falls

Estes Point Pillar: High on the pillar the ice is fractured and thin, with water visible through the ice veil

Estes Point Pillar: Jim belays Leslie on the steep section of the pillar

Estes Point Pillar: The climb as seen from the streambed

Dangling Woo Li Master: Steep ground in the Bighorn Mating Grotto

Taped up hands after a day of climbing in the Bighorn Mating Grotto; notice the Disney band-aid on the middle finger

Pinched Rib: Steck's favorite route

Eileen Dover: This interesting route starts with a hard boulder problem, then traverses just left 5 bolts about 10' above the ground, then finishing straight up to some chains

Eileen Dover: A little further along in the traverse; lots for the hands, but little for the feet

Effigy Too: The opening, unprotected moves of Effigy Too

Effigy Too: Effigy Too is a nice route for sunny days as it's in the shade. The huge boulder high and left is the EBGBs boulder.

Effigy Too: The climbing eases near the top of the route

Pullups To Pasadena: Unprotected knob climbing at the start of yet another Swain route

Garden Angel: Weird layback moves up the arete of Garden Angel

Garden Angel: Weird layback moves up the arete of Garden Angel

Lori and Jim pose on top of the Headstone

Head Over Heels: Tall people can simply reach left and bypass any difficulty; not sure what short people do

Dazed and Confused: Thin face moves characterize climbing on this route

Dazed and Confused: Runout climbing in a sea of granite

Lori and Jim pose on top of the Manure Pile at dusk

Left Mel Crack: Climbing the height-related crux of the Left Mel Crack

Clean and Jerk: Long reaches on overhanging rock constitute the crux of Clean and Jerk

Clean and Jerk: One of the best hand/fist cracks in the park

O'Kelley's Crack: Opening moves -- despite the rating of 5.10c, the initial moves are 5.11a

The whole gang

Hanging out at the campfire in Ryan

Illusion Dweller: Low on the all time perfect crack

Junk Food: The route Junk Food traverses the Junk Clump formation on a quartz dike; it begins with two bolts, then crosses three other routes

Born in a Barn: A route on the Shorter Wall, the right-hand side of the Rock Garden Valley

Solid Gold: Following up the sharp edges of Solid Gold; this climb is quite the finger shredder

Solid Gold: Simon leading the lower section of Solid Gold

Rubicon: Jim and Allen on Rubicon

No Self Confidence: The crux is the section just before the roof on the left where the crack is tight hands

No Self Confidence: Steep, sustained crack climbing in the midsection of the route

No Self Confidence: Feeling pumped, this is the last rest before running it out to the top

Allen Steck Memorial Route: At dusk on the Memorial Route

Orphan: Leading the initial stemming corner of Orphan; if you can stomach the off-width at the top, this is an excellent climb

Boogers on a Lampshade: Making the crux moves on Boogers; the high bolt protects this section

Boogers on a Lampshade: After the crux; the next piece is the tied off chicken head visible just above

Lunch break on the ledge system in front of the Astro Domes

Drop Zone: In the midst of the crux at Sheepbugger's Wall; the difficulty here is that the protection is at your feet while making the crux .11 moves…below that is a ledge!

Figures on a Landscape: About to make the crux moves on the first pitch

Icebreakers Arete: Climbing Icebreakers Arete in early season

Icebreakers Arete: The crux of Icebreakers Arete involved climbing an overhanging cauliflower of ice

Bäretritt: At the base of the fragile pillar

Bäretritt: We climbed the rock on the left to avoid breaking the fragile pillar

Bäretritt: High on the route, pumped, and looking for a belay

Arbonium: Traversing left at the start of P2

Jim and Belen pack for the hike back to the car after a full day climbing

Vía del Gesto: This route demanded thin laybacking, high-angle friction, and tiny crimping and was the most difficult route I climbed at La Pedriza

The Last Gentleman: The Last Gentleman (Copyright © Ade Miller)

The Last Gentleman: Leading the fragile third pitch of the Gentleman

Mindbender: Jim leading the initial sections of Mindbender

The Promenade: Jim nearing the cave at the top of the first pitch of The Promenade

Called on Account of Rains: Leading the thin ice on the first pitch of Called; the route steepens just above, then stretches the rope to the cave visible beneath a hanging pillar on the right

Called on Account of Rains: The crux of the route climbs is the steeper section of ice just below the cave belay

Doin' The Dishes: Toproping back when it was cool to do so (5.11d)

Orbit: Kristy and Jim Cruise Orbit

Don't Forget Arete: Climbing an arete in Icicle Creek Canyon

Coffin Crack: Low down on Coffin Crack

Unknown: Kind of a crappy picture, but shows my early climbing days -- wool knickers, Fires, and a hammer

Green Traverse: Bouldering on Moss Island

Tailgate party after a day of climbing (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Hiking into Lumpy for the day (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Fat City: Moving up the .10a finger crack to the crux roof on the second pitch; the roof is climbed at the crack just above the helmet

Jim at the base of the Bookmark (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Inside Straight: Sequence of pictures showing climbing the flaring off-width

Inside Straight: Stuffing gear high into the off-width

Inside Straight: Laybacking the outer edge seems to be the way forward, although it's waaay pumpy

Inside Straight: Disappearing into the off-width; this is actually climbed on the outside, but it's hard to make the transition

Romulan Territory: Climbing the crux bulge on the second pitch; the difficulty of this pitch is in placing gear, as it's thin and technical

Cross-Eyed and Blind: Jeremy at the crux of the .11a on the left side of the wall

Travels in Greece

Es geht auch ohne!: Jim and Nikos on the last route before leaving the beautiful Meteora

Fingertip and Sky: Jim attempting a harder route (VIII+)

Line of the Fallen Drop: Jim leading on large knobs (notice the tied off knob)

Tour gang in Milan

Pinhead: Broken rock and interesting sidepulls make this route surprisingly fun

Killing time at Top Hut, the building next to the Austrian Hut

Stormy weather moves in after setting up camp near the Austrian Hut (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Reviewing route beta (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Ravenous after our successful ascent of Nelion (4 hours) (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Looking tired after our climb (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Lucie comes out to celebrate when we return from the summit (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Group shot in front of Nelion (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Southwest Ridge: Jim sets an anchor to wait out the storm (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Southwest Ridge: Horrible rappelling in the snow on the descent (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Drinking juice boxes so we don't have to carry them (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Writing in the journal at camp at the start of the approach (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Our first day on the approach to Mt. Kenya (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

On the hike up to Mintos Hut (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Hanging out in front of the filthy Mintos Hut (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Filtering water for the day in one of the lakes near Mintos Hut (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Jumping a bog in Temple Fields in a forest of giant groundsel (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Resting at Tooth Col (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Just about at the Mintos Hut on our first day of the approach (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

On the endless slog up to the Austrian Hut, Lucie begins to feel sick (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

On the final approach to Austrian Hut (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Eating at McKinder's Camp (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Talking about options…should we climb another route? (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Must have a little sun block (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Descending back to the roadhead, just entering the jungle (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Resting at the Met Station, totally beat (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Repacking on the hike out (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Jim washes up, first time in 2 weeks (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Jim washes up, first time in 2 weeks (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Descending through the jungle to the Met Station (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

On the final march to the forest gate, glad to be done with it (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Normal Route: Sitting at a belay high on the route

Normal Route: Jim sitting in front of the Howell Hut

Normal Route: Victorious on the summit of Nelion

Normal Route: Enjoying the view from the summit of Nelion

Normal Route: Hanging out on the summit; the clouds are already starting to develop for the afternoon snow

Normal Route: Traversing the glacier to the start of the route on a recon outing (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Normal Route: Zigzagging up ledges at the start of the route (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Normal Route: Leading up to the ridge past Baileys Bivy (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Normal Route: Traversing and dealing with the ropes (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Normal Route: Examining the single-point rappel anchor; looks good (Copyright © Chris Yenkey)

Infidel: Entering the crux high on the first pitch; this is another difficult-to-find route on the flanks of Mt. Lemmon (Copyright © Dennis Luther)

Great Expectations: Leading the second pitch (5.8), thankful to be out of the chimney below

Birthday Girl: The initial slab moves on Birthday Girl, Anduriel Tower

Jim hanging out at the top of Rupley Tower C

Hitchcock: Lori climbs up the west side of the pinnacle

Nang: Jim near the start of Nang, Blazing Fin Tower

Jim and Lucie on the ridge at Windy Point

East Face: Posers in front of Mt. Whitney

The gang gathered in LA after the trip to Yosemite and Mt. Whitney (Copyright © Stuart Williams)

East Face: Displaying the giant rack (Copyright © Stuart Williams)

East Face: Lookin' stupid on the summit of My. Whitney (Copyright © Stuart Williams)

Lucie kisses a giraffe named Lynn (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Dining out in Nairobi (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Lucie and Jim sitting on the wharf

Banana: Climbing the Banana, the ice route high and right of Main Flow; this is perhaps the first ascent in 7 years of this route

Levitator: Climbing the start of the Levitator, which is typically M7, but is unusually fat in these conditions

On top of the only climbable rock on Apo Island, you can see the beach where we had lunch and relaxed between dives

Thems Jammer's Hands

Jim and Lucie sitting at the base of Burning Calves, Beauty Mountain

Chasing The Wind: The 2nd pitch finger crack -- very hard moves intersperced with rests and great protection; I placed nearly an entire set of wires in this 100' pitch

Jaws: Shoe-ing up after climbing Jaws (and 10 hours of driving)

At the start of "Bonemaster", belayed by Joe

Easy climbing in the midsection of the route

Getting established on the slopers just past the crux

Cresenta: The gang at the base of Cresenta just before a downpour

Cresenta: Traversing beneath the large overhang on Cresenta

Reachers of Habbit: Thin moves on "Reachers"

Stuck in Another Dimension: Squeezing out of the chimney at the start; I thought this was the crux of the route

Stuck in Another Dimension: At the top of the crack…just a couple more moves until the rest

Beckey Route: Jim on the summit of Liberty Bell

Beckey Route: On the summit of Liberty Bell

Coleman Glacier: Stuart, Jim, and Tracy lookin' tough on Mt. Baker

Coleman Glacier: Sportin' the traditional garb near the summit of Mt. Baker (Copyright © Stuart Williams)

Coleman Glacier: Hiding in a crevasse near the summit of Mt. Baker (Copyright © Stuart Williams)

Fisher Chimneys: Examining the summit register on Shuksan

North Ridge: Ade and Jim Go Climbing

North Ridge: Jim leading the first pitch of the Great Gendarme or Mt. Stuart

Eveil Des Sens: Jim just before the crux of Eveil Des Sens in early season; this was the first climb done in the Ice Palace area

Parallax: Starting out on Parallax with the monster free-hanging pillar looming above

Parallax: In heavy snow, Jim climbs the mixed rock and ice to get established below the pillar

Reflection Wall: Climbing the exceptionally wet and steep Reflection Wa;;

Alter Weg: Topping out, reach for a hueco (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Alter Weg: Topping out past the route book (Copyright © Rayko Halitschke)

Alter Weg: Opening moves involve tunneling through the center of the tower

Alter Weg: Horizontal within the tunnel

Alter Weg: Emerging from the other side of the tunnel, now with great exposure but good pro

Alter Weg: Turning around, getting ready to start up the remainder of the route

Alter Weg: Route book and the various pieces of the container

Skylight: Leave the security of the cave on the third pitch; the ice is very unstable here

Unknown: Leading an unknown line between the bridges…looks easy, but it's 4R

Tangled Up in Blue: Topping out in the Uncompahgre Gorge

Tangled Up in Blue: Jim and Nikos at the bottom of the gorge, preparing to climb

Tangled Up in Blue: In the gorge, in a sea of ice (Copyright © Nikos Kopidakis)

Scoping out routes between the bridges (Copyright © Nikos Kopidakis)

Tangled Up in Blue: Rappelling into the base of the gorge to climb Tangled Up in Blue (Copyright © Nikos Kopidakis)

Tangled Up in Blue: Jim near the top of the climb (Copyright © Nikos Kopidakis)

Ambassadors of Funk: Making a clip before the crux (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Ambassadors of Funk: Powering through the crux (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Not My Cross To Bear: Continuous and technical stemming up corner near the Virgin Mary painting

Crossing the river on return from the Secret Crag

Men With Guns: Jim leading low on the first pitch

Graham Crackers: Leading a beautiful NEI 4 first ascent

Jim, Lucie, and Jack sitting in the Mule

Clearing snow between the house and the garage on a typical snow year

Dressed as a spicy, smoked snack for Halloween

Preparing for yet another trip

Bustin' a move on the foundation

Granite facing on the foundation

Extra deep foundation

Everybody standing around during the house raising

Standing on the frame on the day of the raising

Chipping brush to prepare the house site

More site clearing activity

Work progresses; Brian takes a rest

Question of Balance: Rapping off after getting spanked…too wet, too cold, too hard (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Arrowplane: Self portrait at the summit

Jim and Lucie hanging out at Sky Pond

South Face of the Petit Grepon: Scoping out the 8th pitch just above the Pizza Pan Belay

South Face of the Petit Grepon: Climbing the 8th pitch, which is actually on the east side of the pinnacle

Lucie and Jim posed in front of Sky Pond; our bivy was just off the right edge of the photo on the far end of the pond

South Face of the Petit Grepon: Jim leading the crux pitch, looking down at Nikos at the belay ledge

Bivying at Sky Pond (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Standing at the base of the North Chimney after getting beaten down by the weather (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Beach combers (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

Jim with funny glasses (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

Hanging out on the beach (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

Martin and Jim on the boat (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

Best Route in Minnesota: If this was the only route in Minnesota, then it would be the best one; otherwise, it's a guano-infested, slippery arete (although the initial traverse, shown here, is quite nice)

Land of Smiles: Close-up of Jim on Land of Smiles (5.12) (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

Land of Smiles: Jim leading "Land of Smiles" on Happy Island (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

Land of Smiles: Jim leading "Land of Smiles" on Happy Island (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

Land of Smiles: Jim leading "Land of Smiles" on Happy Island (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

Maui Thai: The first route we did in Thailand was a steep one -- Maui Thai

The King and I: Leading the first pitch of The King and I

The King and I: Jim, at the top of the second pitch of The King and I

Jim and Lucie (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

Swimming (Copyright © Udsie Villarica)

The gang in New River Gorge

Twinkie: Jim, blowing out his arms on Twinkie

Jim sorting gear after a day climbing (Copyright © Jais Agertoft)

Prince of Darkness: Contemplating the opening moves on pitch 6

High Wire: My first climb at Red Rocks, and a pumpy one too

High Wire: My first climb at Red Rocks

Trigger Happy: Beautiful rock at the end of the day

Cold Cuts: Starting up Cold Cuts (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Feline: Amazing climbing, no route finding here due to the chalk (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Feline: Strenuous pulling and an intricate sequence coming up (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Unknown: Suppose to be 5.9, but more like .11a (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Rehabilitator: Another "warm up" route, pretty much at our limit (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

He She: Thin moves at the start of the route (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

There Goes the Neighborhood

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Finishing the crux column, about to dry tool to the finish on rotten shale

The Elbow: Jim leading the first ascent of The Elbow

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Series 4: Climbing into the crux, the ice hangs free from the rock above

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Series 5: Close-up - high on Mate, Spawn, and Die

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Series 6: Placing bomber protection before moving into the free hanging columns

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Series 7: Clipping the fixed runner at the top of the ice; the runner is connected to a bolt, the first placed at Salmon River

Go Fly a Kype: At the top of the column, the route climbs into the overhanging root ball of a tree, then climbs the branches, and finally the rock to the rim of the Gorge

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Approaching the top column in fat conditions

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Approaching the top column in fat conditions

Salmon Runs: One of the easier lines in the Gorge, Salmon Runs climbs the right side of the Amphitheatre wall

Play It Again, Salmon: The first ascent of Play It Again, Salmon -- on the steep, free-standing pillar at the bottom of the route (Copyright © Keith Robison)

Play It Again, Salmon: Michelle belays while Jim places a screw (Copyright © Keith Robison)

Play It Again, Salmon: Steep ice in the Amphitheatre (Copyright © Keith Robison)

Play It Again, Salmon: The first ascent of Play It Again, Salmon -- overview of the entire route (Copyright © Keith Robison)

Play It Again, Salmon: Nearing the top of the ice (Copyright © Keith Robison)

Play It Again, Salmon: Having reached the top of the ice (and the bolt), the route traverses right (Copyright © Keith Robison)

Play It Again, Salmon: In the midst of the rock section; the crux roof is just below (Copyright © Keith Robison)

Play It Again, Salmon: Attempting to de-pump (Copyright © Keith Robison)

Preparing to climb in the Amphitheatre (Copyright © Keith Robison)

Salmonella: Thankfully reaching the rest at the top of the free-standing column

Salmon Runs: Early season ice on a -10F day in the Amphitheatre (Copyright © Shahab Farzanegan)

Filet It Again: On the first ascent of Filet it Again; the roof below is pumpy, but the ice crux is still to come

Lox and Locks: Jim leading the main falls, left side

Shale We Climb: Jim high up on Shale We Climb in thin conditions, second ascent

Shale We Climb: Jim pumping through the initial roof

Emergency Release: Jim leading an unnamed column on the wall left of the main falls

Lox and Locks: Pretty easy climbing, but the ice is unconsolidated and protection is sparse

Shale We Climb: Shale We Climb in WI4 conditions

Shale We Climb: Leading through the final column; this column rarely comes in

Emergency Release: The columns of ice along the canyon rim (right of the Main Falls) form into fat and challenging climbs late in the season

Shale We Climb: Pumping through the opening roof

Salmon Steak: Jim leading the main downstream flow

Salmon Steak: Jim leading the main downstream flow, center section

The Original Route: Sitting on top of The Mace, at the end of P4 (Copyright © Emilie Drinkwater)

The Original Route: Stemming up the complex assortment of towers on P4; crux is at the top of the pitch (Copyright © Emilie Drinkwater)

Pollux: High on the Pollux route

Pollux: Spring climbing before the leaves

High Test: Joe puzzles through the crux moves at the start of High Test

Pleasant Overhangs: Joe lookin' out; I can be seen in the reflection

Le Mulot: Topo showing the route and belays; picture taken from the river (Copyright © Rich Gottlieb)

Le Mulot: Topo showing the route and belays; picture taken from the side (Copyright © Rich Gottlieb)

Le Mulot: Will and Jim on Le Mulot (Copyright © Rich Gottlieb)

Cars That Eat People: Shows the entire sequence on Cars that Eat People

Cars That Eat People: Series 1: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

Cars That Eat People: Series 2: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

Cars That Eat People: Series 3: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

Cars That Eat People: Series 4: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

Cars That Eat People: Series 5: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

Cars That Eat People: Series 6: Just past the crux; placing the gold Camalot (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Lichen' The Lip: Jim climbing the hard-to-protect crack right of Resistance; this section of the route is 5.10b (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Lost City Crack: Just getting into the crux section of Lost City Crack

Void Where Inhibited: Barely pulling the layback crux at the Nears

Birdland: At the crux on Birdland (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Swing Time: Series 1: On the lower wall (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Swing Time: Series 2: Just clipped the fixed gear below the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Swing Time: Series 3: Moving left to the lip of the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Swing Time: Series 4: Grabbing the bomber hang jam with the knees locked below the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Swing Time: Series 5: Hanging from the good buckets at the lip of the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Swing Time: Series 6: A toe hook allows one to grab the horizontal further left (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Swing Time: Series 7: A bomber heel hook allows one to grab the side pull above the roof; a fall from this position would surely break the ankle, and the swing would slam one headfirst into the wall below (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Swing Time: Series 8: The crux involves pulling up on side-pulls and standing on the horizontals above the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Foops: Pulling through the lip of Foops

Foops: Working out the roof on Foops

No Exit: Close-up of friends in the initial crack of No Exit

No Exit: At the bottom of No Exit

Scare City: Messing up a tenuous clip on Scare City

Wipe Out: Tad pumping through the overhanging hand crack of Wipe Out

Foops: Pulling through a 5.9 crack on the first section of Foops

Foops: Jim following the first 5.9 section of Foops

Bonnie's Roof Direct: Checking out the crux roofs on Bonnie's Roof Direct

Pink Laurel: Hanging around on the roofs of Pink Laurel

Trad weenies in the 1980s

Directissima: Jim leading the second pitch of Directissima

April Showers: Will's completed the difficulties and tackles the 10b upper section

Interstice: Struggling on the low roof of Interstice on the Mac Wall

Matinee: Series 3: Jim moving past the crux on the first pitch of Matinee

CCK Direct: Climbing amongst severely overhanging rock on CCK Direct (Copyright © William Segal)

Directissima: Sequence showing climbing the crux overhanging wall of the second pitch of Directissima (Copyright © William Segal)

Directissima: Selecting gear to place into the horizontal crack at the crux (Copyright © William Segal)

Directissima: Clipping the rope (Copyright © William Segal)

Directissima: One more mantle and it's done (Copyright © William Segal)