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Slideshow (281 photos)

Adirondacks (map)
 

Adirondack weather (Keene Valley)

 

North East Ice

 

Adirondack Rock and River Ice Conditions

New guidebook for the Adirondack Park

  Avalanche Lake
 

The Matrix: The Matrix Epic

 

The Matrix: The Matrix buttress at Avalanche Lake

 

The Matrix: Topo of a few routes at Avalanche Lake

 

3D: Traversing to the belay on the first pitch of 3D

 

Early morning light over Avalanche Lake

 

Joe and Will sitting on the ledge below the fin

 

Unknown: Will leading the leftmost crack on the fin (5.10+)

 

Sufferin' Succatash: Midway up one of the stellar chimney climbs, right of the rock route "3D"

 

A Usable Amount: Lots of hard routes on this wall. The most prominent yellow ice is "A Usable Amount", put up by Will

 

Gate Keeper: Joe on Gate Keeper, just left of the 2nd hitch-up-matilda; we bailed here due to delaminated ice

 

The Matrix: Matrix wall from high on Scott Decapio's route. Visible are Gold Rush, Fools Gold, and The Matrix. Way to the right are the hangers climbed by Alex Lowe

 

Matrix Direct, The Other One: My first try on leashless tools; I failed miserably, lowering off just after this point

 

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones gets established on the ice

 

Matrix Direct, The Other One: The Matrix with just enough ice to make it climbable

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones places a screw in the better ice

 

Matrix Direct, The Other One: View of the Matrix; the "other one" starts on the rock between the pines.

 

Matrix Direct, The Other One: At the top of the M7+ rock section

 

Matrix Direct, The Other One: High on the upper section

 

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Cranking through the initial overhanging crack

 

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones works out the moves on the initial overhanging crack

 

Gate Keeper: The route Gate Keeper (the thin ribbon on the left) as seen from De Capio's route

 

Unknown: Climbing a pillar on the east side of Avalanche Pass before one reaches the lake; the climb is broken into two parts -- the initial pillar to a ledge, then a rock overhang

 

Unknown: Bones climbs thin, poorly protected ice leading to a free-hanging ice column above

 

Tad's map of Avalanche Lake showing the routes

 

Keymaster: Jim climbs the first ascent of Keymaster, a mixed route just right of Gatekeeper (Copyright Simeon Warner)

  Big Slide
 

Dad and Bruce on the summit of Big Slide in the early 1970s (Copyright Jack Lawyer)

  Cascade Pass
 

My Favorite Martian: Kristy following John up My Favorite Martian in Cascade Pass

 

Pete's Farwell: Nikos starting on the third pitch

 

Posing on the lake after completing Killer Whale

  Chapel Pond
 

Haggis and Cold Toast: Simeon chimneying up Haggis and Cold Toast in the Beer Walls

 

H14: George gears up to follow H14

 

H14: Series 1: Clipping the pin that Joe thankfully placed on the first ascent

 

H14: Series 2: Delicate moves are required to keep the little remaining ice intact

 

H14: Series 3: Near the end of the difficulties

 

Big Brother: Approaching the final free-hanging pillar on Big Brother

 

Buford: Climbing the initial steep pillar on Buford; this pillar is shared between Bubba, Buford, and Ice Storm

 

Buford: Moving up the final overhanging smear of ice at the top of the route; the crux of the route is the traverse connecting the pillar of Bubba to the yellow drips on the right

 

Laceration: Tommy leading the steep ice smear of Laceration

 

Reunion: Tommy leads the thin lower face that leads to the cave

 

Reunion: After getting gear in the rock cave, Tommy climbs the crux column

 

Artificial Gravity: Tommy starts the crux pitch of Artificial Gravity; the pillar on the right side is Power Play

 

Artificial Gravity: At the top, the ice overhangs; the route finishes by mounting the free-hanging pillar to the right

 

Unknown: The free-hanging pillar is the crux of this route, although the unprotected climbing above is engaging

 

Not Likely: Series 1: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

 

Not Likely: Series 2: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

 

Not Likely: Series 3: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

 

Not Likely: Series 4: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

 

Not Likely: Series 5: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

 

Not Likely: Series 6: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney

 

The Power Play wall with a few routes labeled

 

Rhiannon: The Big Brother wall in fat conditions; Big Brother is on the broken ice column on the left, Tommy is on Rhiannon, and Lilith is on the far right. On the orange wall just right of Tommy is the free-hanging column called Not Likely

 

Reunion: The cave is exited using an ice host that drips on the face to the left; the strip of ice on the right is Laceration

 

Power Play: Ade climbs the sketchy ice in the center section of Power Play

  Courthouse
 

Runaway Jury: A nice face climb at the Courthouse

  Deadwater
 

Geronimo: Climbing the initial offwidth

 

Birches at the base of Geronimo -- water color (Copyright Lucie Wellner)

  Echo Cliff
 

Life During Wartime: First free ascent of Life During Wartime, Echo Cliff

  Elizabethtown
 

The now-famous Unit

  Elk Lake
 

Nipple Top from Elk Lake (Copyright Jack Lawyer)

 

Staring out into space on the top of Sunrise Mountain near Elk Lake

  Exit 30
 

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

 

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

 

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

 

The Fecalator: Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator

 

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

 

The Fecalator: Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: One-arm hang, attempting to rest

  Good Luck Cliff
 

Lucky Stars: Jim on the first ascent of Lucky Stars (5.11R) at Good Luck Cliff

 

Columbus: Mike on the first ascent of a new route right of Cleveland, Good Luck Cliff

 

Lucky Stars: Bill making the route safer after the first ascent

Mystery Achievement: Will leading the beautiful 5.9 hand crack after a night of heavy partying

 

Lucky Stars: Bill cleans the route with a wire brush on rappel

  Gothics
 

Direct South Face: Topping out on the South Face route

 

Direct South Face: Simon and Lori at the belay on top of pitch 1; the lovely yellow lichen is characteristic of the south face

 

The south face of Gothics as seen from the summit of Pyramid

 

Direct South Face: The south face of Gothics as seen from the summit of Pyramid with the 3-pitch 5.9 route described

  Greater Keene Valley
 

Left of Passage: Tom climbing around the chockstone on the direct start of Left of Passage

  Heart Lake
 

Jim at Heart Lake in 1978

  High Falls Crag
 

There Be Dragons: Bones approaches the crux roof/corner

 

There Be Dragons: Stemming through the crux; one more move and he's got a sinker hand jam

 

Route of Opressive Power: Dennis leads the crux of the route while Jim belays

 

Route of Opressive Power: Dennis finally nails the crux and struggles with the hand jams above

  High Peaks
 

Dad resting on a bridge near Avalanche Lean-to

 

Jim hiking in the mid 1970s

 

Dizzle showing off the singlet

 

Dizzle starts a lap

 

Earl hangs out at camp

Posing with Lori

  Huckleberry Mountain
 

Geriatric Profanity Disorder: Following up GPD in the fall

 

Apollo Tucker: Simon silhouetted against the sky on Apollo Tucker

  Hurricane Crag

Hooligans: Tad, following the second pitch of Hooligans, Hurricane Crag

  John's Brook
 

The gang at the Winter camp, late 70's

  King Wall
 

Cheese and Crackers: Chris, following Cheese and Crackers, King Wall

 

Chronic Fixation: John near the second bolt of Chronic Fixation at the King Wall

 

Cheese and Crackers: Just past the crux on the fragile upper columns

 

Chronic Fixation: Chris warms up on one of the easier routes at the King Wall

 

Kingdom Come: Jim belays Chris who is following the second pitch; the traverse is hard, but made easier using chimney moves with your back

Kingdom Come: Jim climbs the first pitch (5.11c) of Kingdom Come; the route continues left, then climbs the broken arching rock rightwards to a belay

 

Kingdom Come: Closeup of Jim on the first pitch

  Knob Lock
 

Unexpected Pleasures: Leading the top section of Unexpected Pleasures on Knob Lock

  Lock Ness
 

Lock and Load: Don't Listen to your Friends (Copyright Ade Miller)

 

Lock and Load: Ade leading on a cold day with brittle ice

 

Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish: Martin leading the first ascent of Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish

 

Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish: Topping out on the crux in thin conditions

 

Topo of Lock Ness

 

Lock Ness

 

Lock and Load: Topo of Lock Ness

 

Lock and Load: Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load

 

Lock and Load: Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load

 

The Best Ice Route in the Philippines: Jim leading the first ascent of The Best Ice Route in the Philippines

 

Too Early: Simeon leading the first ascent of Too Early on the lower wall of Lock Ness

 

Camera Trouble: Jim leading in a snow storm on Camera Trouble on the upper wall of Lock Ness

 

Karen (of the Cliffhanger) preparing to climb at Lock Ness

  Moss Cliff
 

Creation Of The World: Route description (and beta!) for Creation Of The World on Moss Cliff

 

Fear of Flying: Leading the offwidth 3rd pitch

 

Hard Times: High in the corner of the third pitch of Hard Times

 

Hard Times: Simeon at the top of the chimney pitch, belaying Simon

 

Crossing the river using a Tyrolean traverse

 

Falconer: Kevin doing a split at the crux of Falconer

 

Spirit of Adventure: Climbing the dramatic arete; this crux is moving onto the face (at the level of the gear in the photo), but the top is no giveaway

Creation of the World: Jeremy climbs the thin face past the bolt at the start (Copyright Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: After placing gear in the corner, Jeremy prepares to layback (Copyright Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: Jeremy places a piece of gear into the expanding flake above the bolt; this gear sucks, and he later removed it (Copyright Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: After reaching a good hold for the left foot, Jeremy scopes the shallow corner for better protection (Copyright Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: At the end of the traverse on the 2nd pitch (5.11a), finally able to place some better gear (Copyright Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: Getting established in the hand crack at the end of the traverse on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a) (Copyright Will Mayo)

Creation of the World: The crack turns to wide fists before becoming off-width just above (2nd pitch) (Copyright Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: Approaching the hanging cedar on the 2nd pitch (5.11a) (Copyright Will Mayo)

 

Creation of the World: Joe belays while Jim eats a granola bar (Copyright Will Mayo)

  Mt. Giant
 

Eagle Slab: Lucie and Jim on the Summit of Giant after climbing Eagle Slab

  Mt. Van Hovenberg
 

Pushing it, after 20 hours (Copyright Jen Mattson)

 

On the final lap of the 24-hour race (Copyright Jen Mattson)

 

Start of the "24-Hours in the Adirondacks" mountain bike race (Copyright Jen Mattson)

 

Waiting at the transition area

  Palisades
 

Approaching the Palisades across the ice of Lake Champlain from the Vermont side

 

Drop, Swim, or Die: George and Joe scope out the route from Lake Champlain; the route is in especially fat conditions and is usually approached from the top via rappel

 

Drop, Swim, or Die: Climbing the crux column low on the route

 

Drop, Swim, or Die: The second crux climbs the ice above the climber through the constriction in the rock

 

Lake Champlain Monster: The leftmost route at The Palisades; the ice doesn't reach the bottom, thus the first ascent traversed in from the left; Will climbed a direct start on rock reaching the free-hanging pillars on the right side

 

Lake Champlain Monster: Jeremy checks out the ice with the "Monster" in the background

 

For The Birds: Jeremy scopes out the line from the lake; the first ascent of this route occurred earlier this same day

 

For The Birds: Jeremy climbs the initial ice bulge, using nuts on the right for protection

 

For The Birds: The crux of the first pitch is a thin ice column protected with rock gear on the sides

 

For The Birds: With the gear in place, the ice column can be safely climbed

 

For The Birds: Just above the belay, the climbing is secure, but the ice is melted out and sketchy

 

For The Birds: George does the third ascent in one long pitch while Jim and Joe watch

  Pharaoh
 

Here Come the Pigs: Tom leading the first ascent at Pharaoh Mt.

 

Tom posing at the base of his new route

  Poko
 

Tres Amigos in the road at Poko

 

Freedom Flight: John high on the third pitch of Freedom Flight

 

Freedom Flight: John high on the third pitch of Freedom Flight

 

Goats Foot: Jim low down on Goats Foot, Poko (Copyright Tad Welch)

 

Goats Foot: Close-up of Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko

Goats Foot: Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko

 

Goats Foot Left: Chris and Joe attempting a line left of Goat's Foot

Hidden Pique: Jim high in the Hidden Pique corner, Poko (Copyright Simeon Warner)

Bushido: Thin steep ice on Bushido, Poko

 

Midlife Crisis: Joe leading the final column on Midlife Crisis during the second ground-up ascent

 

Waterfall: Will leading the Poko Waterfall in lean conditions

 

Positive Thinking: Positive Thinking, as seen from the road in fat conditions (Copyright Simeon Warner)

 

Positive Thinking: Jim starting the first pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko

 

Positive Thinking: Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch

Positive Thinking: Close-up of Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch

 

Positive Thinking: Simon leading the second pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko

 

Run for your Life: Simeon leading on the upper tier of Poko

 

Bushido: John at the base of the Poko Waterfall

 

Joe with refreshments at the base of Cirrhosis

 

Son of Slime: Making the traverse on the first pitch of Son of Slime

 

Son of Slime: Close-up of Jim making the traverse on Son of Slime

 

Positive Thinking: Ade leading the first pitch of Positive Thinking in fat conditions

 

Positive Thinking: Ade leading the first pitch of Positive Thinking in fat conditions

 

Positive Thinking: Dave soloing the lower section of PT in fat conditions

 

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright Ade Miller)

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright Ade Miller)

 

Midlife Crisis: Leading the top crux column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions (Copyright Ade Miller)

 

Positive Thinking: Leading the third pitch of PT in thin conditions (Copyright Ade Miller)

 

Positive Thinking: Positive thinking from the road; fat conditions

 

Positive Thinking: Simeon leading the second pitch

 

Stingray: Stingray, shown using the first pitch of PT

Waterfall: Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead

 

Waterfall: Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead

 

Legends contemplate the remaining work on the new routes near Pilgrim's Progress

 

Lori with her bandage

 

Legends at the base of Poko

 

Lori taped and ready to go

 

Pilgrim's Progress: Jim at the start of the second pitch (yes, those are bolts next to the crack; what you can't see is that the crack is really the left edge of an enormous arrowhead-shaped detached block)

 

Ancient of Days: Dennis halfway through the overhangs on the last pitch

 

Ancient of Days: Getting ready to pull through the exit moves on the last pitch

 

Ancient of Days: Just below the notch that breaks through the overhangs on the last pitch

 

Ancient of Days: Pulling through the final overhangs

 

Ancient of Days: About to pull through the final overhangs

 

Casual Observer: The death of my Nikon 28TI

 

Morning Star: Straining to pull the final layback move on Morning Star (Copyright Dennis Luther)

 

Morning Star: The final pitch of Morning Star climbs a steep face to a layback finish around a bulge (Copyright Dennis Luther)

 

Morning Star: Cleaning a nut on the second pitch (Copyright Dennis Luther)

 

Thunderhead: Bones works his way out the roof on the second pitch

 

Thunderhead: Bones climbs through the crux on the second pitch; this picture was taken just prior to falling

 

Quitting early to help polish off one very large beer

 

Fastest Gun: At the top of the off-width section on the first pitch

 

Pilgrim's Progress: Jeremy follows the first pitch (5.10a) of Pilgrim's Progress

 

Moonshine: Joe places protection in a small cave before moving out onto crappy unconsolidated ice

 

Moonshine: A few tenuous moves get around the cave

 

Moonshine: Joe climbs the steeper ice; the crux is just above

 

Moonshine: Michelle casually follows Moonshine

 

Positive Thinking: A climber on the first pitch of Positive Thinking in super fat conditions

  Poko, Upper Tier
 

Dark Lord: Dark Lord in melt-out conditions at Poko's upper tier

 

Hold the Mayo: Hold the Mayo

 

Hold the Mayo: Will leading the start of P1, "Hold the Mayo" (WI5+ M6)

 

Hold the Mayo: Will resting on "Hold the Mayo"

 

Hold the Mayo: Will higher in the corner on "Hold the Mayo"

 

Hold the Mayo: Will finally reaches the ice dagger on "Hold the Mayo"

Hold the Mayo: Jim leading pitch 2 of "Hold the Mayo"

 

Fear of Frogs: Joe solo-aid climbing a route left of Hold the Mayo, Poko Upper Tier

 

Mechanical Hydraulic Control: Tom seconding the corner left of Fear of Gravity

 

Your Anus: Tom getting a rest after squeezing through the crux on Your Anus

The Jackal: Setting pro high before climbing the crux; The Jackal overhangs gently for most of its length

 

The Jackal: With higher gear, Joe moves into the crux once again

 

The Jackal: Laybacking through the crux

 

The Jackal: Joe resting before the crux moves on the Jackal

 

Dark Lord: The opening moves of Dark Lord clims ice under a roof, up into a corner, then onto a free-hanging pillar

 

Dark Lord: Starting up the steep middle section of the route

 

Dark Lord: The crux of the route climbs melted ice on black rock. The ice in the corner is shaded and therefore more solid than the ice on the face.

  Potash
 

Fear of a Flat Planet: Jeremy leading the huge roof; after this roof, there's a perfect finger crack that leads one into the overhanging rock left-of-center in the photo

 

Double Diamond: Just before the meat of the climbing on Double Diamond

 

Double Diamond: Sinking the tips into the this layback crack

 

Double Diamond: Jeremy clips into gear in the thin crack

 

Double Diamond: Taking a rest on the left

Double Diamond: Climbing through the crux, Jeremy places more gear

Double Diamond: Grabbing the bucket past the crux

 

Double Diamond: Final moves to the anchor

  Saranac Lake
 

Tom and Nona having dessert in the kitchen after a day of ice climbing

  Spider's Web
 

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Series 1: Dennis climbs the initial intimidating wall

 

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Series 2: Starting into the crux finger crack

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Series 3: Struggling with the crux of the route

 

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Full sequence of Dennis climbing Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

 

Romano's Route: Don climbs the lower crux section of the route

 

Lucie painting at the Spider's Web

 

Eternity: Will traversing into the base of the Eternity crack; we bailed here due to wetness

 

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Belaying at the base of the Web

 

Drop, Fly, or Die: Colin reaches for gear after the difficult traverse

 

Drop, Fly, or Die: Colin climbs the steep crack of Drop, Fly, or Die, belayed by Joe

 

It's Only Entertainment: About midway up the diagonal crack

It's Only Entertainment: Placing gear at midpoint on the diagonal crack

 

It's Only Entertainment: At the end of the diagonal crack; a couple of pieces here protect the crux left traverse

 

It's Only Entertainment: Halfway across the crux traverse

Ku Klux Ken: Awkard jams at the start of Ku Klux Ken

Ku Klux Ken: Chris powers through a couple strnuous moves

Ku Klux Ken: Pretty cool pinch hold

Ku Klux Ken: Laybacks near the top

 

Ku Klux Ken: A long reach; still not there yet

  Underwood Canyon
 

The Apology: On the traverse to the final ice smear

 

The Apology: Reaching the final ice smear after 80' of dry tooling

 

The Apology: The final moves up the ice after the traverse

 

Unknown: Just off the ground, Chris searches for his first placement

 

Unknown: Joe belays Chris as he attempts a new line

 

Unknown: Chris places the purple Camalot, the first piece of protection

 

Unknown: Scanning the rock for a possible line; after this point, Chris aborted the attempt

 

Where's Karen: Joe climbs the initial section of ice that leads to an overhanging crack; David sets up in the background to shoot The Apology

  Upper Chateaugay Lake
 

Jim and John on the way to Cragsmere

 

Lucie in the canoe near Cragsmere on Upper Chateaugay Lake

  Wallface
 

Diagonal: Kristy leading on the Diagonal on Wallface

 

Diagonal: Chris and Simon on the top of the ramp on the Diagonal, Wallface

 

Mental Blocks: Looking down from the roof pitch of Mental Blocks at Stuart, Roger, and Jim

 

Mental Blocks: Jim leading the third pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface

 

Free Ride: Napping on Lunch Ledge, three pitches from the top

 

Free Ride: Moving into the first crux of the route on the first pitch; unfortunately, the business is right at the start of the route

 

Free Ride: At the belay on the Shield; these two pitches are some of the best face climbing in the northeast

 

Free Ride: Dennis leads pitch 4, the first Shield pitch

 

Free Ride: At the start of pitch 8, the "Endurance Corner"; the climbing here is very sustained, and the rock is a bit grainy

 

Free Ride: Resting about halfway through pitch 8

 

Free Ride: At the top of the cliff, the route traverses below a giant roof; a couple of hard [Houdini] moves, combined with awesome exposure, make this pitch a "must do"

 

Wallface, taken in the early morning from the viewpoint in Indian Pass

 

Free Ride: Close-up of the route Free Ride on Wallface

 

Free Ride: The route Free Ride on Wallface

Mental Blocks: Jim leading the second pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface

  Washbowl Cliff
 

Weekend Warrior: Shitty Choss Pile From Hell

Master Craft: Joe follows the steep initial pitch of Master Craft (led by Dennis unseen above)

 

Lucie painting at the Washbowl Cliff, below the route Flashdance

  Willsboro

Wind Jammer: Unknown climber high on Wind Jammer, a perfect splitter crack

  Wilmington Notch
 

Polar Soldier: Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier

 

Polar Soldier: Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier

Yellow Pillars: Joe gets established after the traverse and prepares to climb the overhanging ice above

 

Yellow Pillars: Climbing into the steeper ice of the crux

 

Yellow Pillars: Overview showing Bombcicle and Yellow Pillars