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Slideshow (119 photos)

Shawangunks (map)
 

Web site for climbing in the Shawangunks

 

Gunks weather

  Lost City

Lichen' The Lip: Leading a first ascent of a route to the right of Resistance (5.11?)

 

Nest Route: About to pull the crux on a nice face climb at Lost City (5.10a)

Black Crack: Will leading Black Crack, a nice 5.10 crack left of Lost City Crack

 

Black Crack: Close-up of Will leading Black Crack

 

Black Crack: Will leading the crux of Black Crack (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Cars That Eat People: Shows the entire sequence on Cars that Eat People

 

Cars That Eat People: Series 1: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

 

Cars That Eat People: Series 2: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

Cars That Eat People: Series 3: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

 

Cars That Eat People: Series 4: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

Cars That Eat People: Series 5: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People

 

Cars That Eat People: Series 6: Just past the crux; placing the gold Camalot (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Lichen' The Lip: Jim climbing the hard-to-protect crack right of Resistance; this section of the route is 5.10b (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Evelyn: Hidden off-width crack at Lost City

 

Evelyn: Below the crux of the hidden off-width crack at Lost City; we didn't make it this go

 

Lost City Crack: Just getting into the crux section of Lost City Crack

Resistance (aka Surprise Crack): Will at the "pod" crux of Resistance

 

Wishbone: Will below of the Wishbone roof; the normal route goes out the right side of the large triangular block

Stannard's Roof: Leading the 5.8 section up to the roof

 

Stannard's Roof: Just below the roof

 

Lost City cliff, as seen from the Overcliff Road

 

Lost City with some points of interest labeled

 

Gravity's Rainbow: Chris attempts the onsite

 

Persistence: Looking up from the cave at the base of the route, Chris climbs into the crux; the route is steep, overhanging from base to summit

 

Survival of the Fittest: Climbing the tweaky moves above the initial roof of Survival

 

Survival of the Fittest: After clipping the fixed pins, Chris rests before the crux of the route

  Minnewaska
 

Awosting Falls in Minnewaska State Park; too bad you can't swim

  Near Trapps
 

Good Friday Climb: Leading a poorly protected face in wet conditions at the Nears

 

Void Where Inhibited: Barely pulling the layback crux at the Nears

 

Elder Cleavage: Getting in some gear after the boulder problem start of Elder Cleavage

 

Hang Ten: Moving into the crux of Hang Ten

 

Birdland: At the crux on Birdland (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Criss: A failed attempt at the hard start to Criss (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Harvest Moon: Series 1: Making the moves into the crack from the chimney (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Harvest Moon: Series 2: Moving through the crux jams (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Harvest Moon: Series 3: Still moving through the crux jams (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Harvest Moon: Series 4: At the rest at the top of the crack (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 1: On the lower wall (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 2: Just clipped the fixed gear below the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 3: Moving left to the lip of the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 4: Grabbing the bomber hang jam with the knees locked below the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 5: Hanging from the good buckets at the lip of the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Swing Time: Series 6: A toe hook allows one to grab the horizontal further left (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 7: A bomber heel hook allows one to grab the side pull above the roof; a fall from this position would surely break the ankle, and the swing would slam one headfirst into the wall below (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Swing Time: Series 8: The crux involves pulling up on side-pulls and standing on the horizontals above the roof (Copyright © Will Mayo)

  Skytop

Foops: Pulling through the lip of Foops

 

Foops: Working out the roof on Foops

 

No Exit: Close-up of friends in the initial crack of No Exit

 

No Exit: At the bottom of No Exit

Scare City: Messing up a tenuous clip on Scare City

 

Wipe Out: Tad pumping through the overhanging hand crack of Wipe Out

 

Wipe Out: Tad pumping through the overhanging hand crack of Wipe Out

 

Mom and Dad next to Mohonk Lake (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

 

Sound and Fury: Starting out on the first pitch of Sound and Fury

 

Foops: Pulling through a 5.9 crack on the first section of Foops

 

Single File: Enjoying the sun and quiet on Single File

 

Pete's Meat: Steve at the top of Peat's Meat at Skytop

Max Factor: Clipping the second piece of gear at the start of the crux (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Foops: Jim following the first 5.9 section of Foops

 

The Mohonk Hotel as seen from Skytop

  Trapps
 

Bonnie's Roof Direct: Checking out the crux roofs on Bonnie's Roof Direct

 

Pink Laurel: Hanging around on the roofs of Pink Laurel

 

High Exposure: Stuart starting the last pitch of High Exposure

 

Trad weenies in the 1980s

Retribution: Close-up of Joe climbing the crack above the crux on Retribution

 

MF: Close-up of Tom clearing the second crux on MF, pitch 1

 

Wegetables: Close-up of Will gearing up for the crux moves on Wegetables

 

Wegetables: Close-up of Will gearing up for the crux moves on Wegetables

 

Retribution: Working out the crux on Retribution

 

Retribution: Climbing the crack above the crux on Retribution

 

The gang hanging out at the base of Turdland

MF: Tom clearing the second crux on MF, pitch 1

 

Birdie Party: Powering through the roof on the second pitch of Birdie Party

 

Bonnie's Roof Direct: Gearing up for the roof moves on Bonnie's Roof

 

Wegetables: Gearing up for the crux moves on Wegetables

 

Wegetables: Gearing up for the crux moves on Wegetables

 

Directissima: Rich and Myriam at the belay at the top of the first pitch of Directissima

Directissima: Jim leading the second pitch of Directissima

MF: Dick on the mega-classic MF

 

April Showers: Will's completed the difficulties and tackles the 10b upper section

 

Interstice: Struggling on the low roof of Interstice on the Mac Wall

 

Matinee: Series 1: Will leading the crux on the first pitch of Matinee

 

Matinee: Series 2: Finishing the crux moves on the first pitch of Matinee (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Matinee: Series 3: Jim moving past the crux on the first pitch of Matinee

 

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 1: Will places gear in preparation for the crux roof

 

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 2: Q: Is that Steve Petro? A:Nope, it's a ripped Will bustin' out of his skin

 

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 3: Will gets established in the crux roof

 

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 4: Will places gear in the crux roof

 

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 5: A couple of pieces in, time to move up (Copyright © Will Mayo)

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 6: Lock off and reach high in the crack above (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 7: Feet up, nearly finished (Copyright © Will Mayo)

 

Directissima: Climbing up the arete on the second (or third) pitch of Directissima

 

Directissima: Hanging out on the High Exposure ledge

Modern Times: A climber makes his way up the first pitch

 

CCK Direct: Climbing amongst severely overhanging rock on CCK Direct (Copyright © William Segal)

 

Directissima: Sequence showing climbing the crux overhanging wall of the second pitch of Directissima (Copyright © William Segal)

 

Directissima: Selecting gear to place into the horizontal crack at the crux (Copyright © William Segal)

 

Directissima: Clipping the rope (Copyright © William Segal)

 

Directissima: One more mantle and it's done (Copyright © William Segal)

 

Three Doves: John leading the final thin section of Three Doves

 

Frogs Head: Lucie climbs juggy rock on Frogs Head

 

Frogs Head: Lucie belays; Millbrook in the background

Scary Area: Chris boulders the opening moves on the direct start of Scary Area; Bones offering support from below

Scary Area: Placing the first piece of gear in the horizontal

Space Invaders: Scoping out the moves above

Space Invaders: Moving up the initial arete on Space Invaders

Matinee: Series 1: Starting the difficult traverse moves beneath the roof

 

Matinee: Series 2: Doing the hand swap on the small hold on the underside of the roof

Matinee: Series 3: Snagging the bucket at the end of the traverse

 

Stirrup Trouble: Bones offering beta to Chris at the base of Stirrup Trouble

 

Space Invaders: Looking for that first piece of protection

 

Space Invaders: In the crux; one more move and there's a solid hand jam

 

Stirrup Trouble: Chris climbs the initial scary section, belayed by Bones

 

Uphill All The Way: Approaching the traverse (.11+)

 

Uphill All The Way: Chalking up before the traverse

 

Enduro Man's Longest Hangout: Chris solos the first pitch of Enduro Man; some climbers place a small brass nut, but it's practical use is arguable

 

Jim photographs his daughter on Nosedive

 

Erect Direction: Will and Michelle on the GT ledge preparing for the top pitches

  Uberfall

Susie A: Bouldering up the start of Susie A (5.10+)