Trinity WI5 R 80'
We climbed a new route on a column that, to my knowledge, has never touched down before. We've all watched it grow every year, but it's never been consistently cold long enough for it to form completely. It hangs to the right of the main waterfall at the highest part of the cliff. In it's current condition, it's about 1' in diameter for the first 12', then thickens, finally merging into other columns at the point of attachment. Due to the way the ice forms, it overhangs at the base. The column drips from a break below an 8' overhang, thus requiring a leftward traverse on icicles to reach the rim
Due to the large roofs above the point of attachment and the traverse required to reach to top, the route cannot be toproped. If you decide to give it a go on lead, be really careful!
Here's the route description:
Climb the 1' diameter column to thicker ice at the point of attachment. Cramped climbing moves left on fragile icicles to a rest in an alcove with a frozen-in tree. Step down and climb leftwards beneath an ice curtain, then up onto a limestone ledge which is traversed further left to safe ground at the top of the waterfall.
FA Jim Lawyer, Simeon Warner, Jim Goetz, 2-6-04