Acadia (map)

The long drive back to Pompey in the Vansion

Studying the guidebook

Funky climbing out of a cave on P1 of Translantic
Translantic

Enjoying the view from Great Head

Leslie enjoying sea cliff climbing at its best
Morning Glory

Preparing to rappel down over the water at Great Head

Painting on top of Great Head

Preparing to rappel at Great Head

At the start of Black Crack; after we climbed this, we learned that nobody does this route because it was altered by rock fall
Black Crack

Rocky coastline near Otter Cliffs

Home away from home, at the Otter Cliffs parking area

Crimpy (and reachy) climbing on great rock
Fingers on a Seascape

The Precipice, as seen from the road

View from The Precipice, looking towards the ocean

Following a beautiful crack above the sea, perhaps one of the best routes at Otter Cliffs
A Dare By the Sea

One of the better cracks at The Precipice, although one can step left at several points to reduce the pump factor
Emigrant Crack

Adirondacks (map)

The Matrix buttress at Avalanche Lake
The Matrix

Topo of a few routes at Avalanche Lake
The Matrix

Traversing to the belay on the first pitch of 3D
3D

Early morning light over Avalanche Lake

Joe and Will sitting on the ledge below the fin

Will leading the leftmost crack on the fin (5.10+)
Unknown

Midway up one of the stellar chimney climbs, right of the rock route "3D"
Sufferin' Succatash

Lots of hard routes on this wall. The most prominent yellow ice is "A Usable Amount", put up by Will
A Usable Amount

Joe on Gate Keeper, just left of the 2nd hitch-up-matilda; we bailed here due to delaminated ice
Gate Keeper

Matrix wall from high on Scott Decapio's route. Visible are Gold Rush, Fools Gold, and The Matrix. Way to the right are the hangers climbed by Alex Lowe
The Matrix

My first try on leashless tools; I failed miserably, lowering off just after this point
Matrix Direct, The Other One

Bones gets established on the ice
Matrix Direct, The Other One

The Matrix with just enough ice to make it climbable
Matrix Direct, The Other One

Bones places a screw in the better ice
Matrix Direct, The Other One

View of the Matrix; the "other one" starts on the rock between the pines.
Matrix Direct, The Other One

At the top of the M7+ rock section
Matrix Direct, The Other One

High on the upper section
Matrix Direct, The Other One

Cranking through the initial overhanging crack
Matrix Direct, The Other One

Bones works out the moves on the initial overhanging crack
Matrix Direct, The Other One

The route Gate Keeper (the thin ribbon on the left) as seen from De Capio's route
Gate Keeper

Climbing a pillar on the east side of Avalanche Pass before one reaches the lake; the climb is broken into two parts -- the initial pillar to a ledge, then a rock overhang
Unknown

Bones climbs thin, poorly protected ice leading to a free-hanging ice column above
Unknown

Tad's map of Avalanche Lake showing the routes

Jim climbs the first ascent of Keymaster, a mixed route just right of Gatekeeper
Keymaster

Dad and Bruce on the summit of Big Slide in the early 1970s

Kristy following John up My Favorite Martian in Cascade Pass
My Favorite Martian

Nikos starting on the third pitch
Pete's Farwell

Posing on the lake after completing Killer Whale

Simeon chimneying up Haggis and Cold Toast in the Beer Walls
Haggis and Cold Toast

George gears up to follow H14
H14

Series 1: Clipping the pin that Joe thankfully placed on the first ascent
H14

Series 2: Delicate moves are required to keep the little remaining ice intact
H14

Series 3: Near the end of the difficulties
H14

Approaching the final free-hanging pillar on Big Brother
Big Brother

Climbing the initial steep pillar on Buford; this pillar is shared between Bubba, Buford, and Ice Storm
Buford

Moving up the final overhanging smear of ice at the top of the route; the crux of the route is the traverse connecting the pillar of Bubba to the yellow drips on the right
Buford

Tommy leading the steep ice smear of Laceration
Laceration

Tommy leads the thin lower face that leads to the cave
Reunion

After getting gear in the rock cave, Tommy climbs the crux column
Reunion

Tommy starts the crux pitch of Artificial Gravity; the pillar on the right side is Power Play
Artificial Gravity

At the top, the ice overhangs; the route finishes by mounting the free-hanging pillar to the right
Artificial Gravity

The free-hanging pillar is the crux of this route, although the unprotected climbing above is engaging
Unknown

Series 1: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 2: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 3: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 4: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 5: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 6: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

The Power Play wall with a few routes labeled

The Big Brother wall in fat conditions; Big Brother is on the broken ice column on the left, Tommy is on Rhiannon, and Lilith is on the far right. On the orange wall just right of Tommy is the free-hanging column called Not Likely
Rhiannon

The cave is exited using an ice host that drips on the face to the left; the strip of ice on the right is Laceration
Reunion

Ade climbs the sketchy ice in the center section of Power Play
Power Play

A nice face climb at the Courthouse
Runaway Jury

Climbing the initial offwidth
Geronimo

Birches at the base of Geronimo -- water color

First free ascent of Life During Wartime, Echo Cliff
Life During Wartime

The now-famous Unit

Nipple Top from Elk Lake

Staring out into space on the top of Sunrise Mountain near Elk Lake

Working out the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Working out the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Working out the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Working out the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

One-arm hang, attempting to rest
The Fecalator

Jim on the first ascent of Lucky Stars (5.11R) at Good Luck Cliff
Lucky Stars

Mike on the first ascent of a new route right of Cleveland, Good Luck Cliff
Columbus

Bill making the route safer after the first ascent
Lucky Stars

Will leading the beautiful 5.9 hand crack after a night of heavy partying
Mystery Achievement

Bill cleans the route with a wire brush on rappel
Lucky Stars

Topping out on the South Face route
Direct South Face

Simon and Lori at the belay on top of pitch 1; the lovely yellow lichen is characteristic of the south face
Direct South Face

The south face of Gothics as seen from the summit of Pyramid

The south face of Gothics as seen from the summit of Pyramid with the 3-pitch 5.9 route described
Direct South Face

Tom climbing around the chockstone on the direct start of Left of Passage
Left of Passage

Jim at Heart Lake in 1978

Bones approaches the crux roof/corner
There Be Dragons

Stemming through the crux; one more move and he's got a sinker hand jam
There Be Dragons

Dennis leads the crux of the route while Jim belays
Route of Opressive Power

Dennis finally nails the crux and struggles with the hand jams above
Route of Opressive Power

Dad resting on a bridge near Avalanche Lean-to

Jim hiking in the mid 1970s

Dizzle showing off the singlet

Dizzle starts a lap

Earl hangs out at camp

Posing with Lori

Following up GPD in the fall
Geriatric Profanity Disorder

Simon silhouetted against the sky on Apollo Tucker
Apollo Tucker

Tad, following the second pitch of Hooligans, Hurricane Crag
Hooligans

The gang at the Winter camp, late 70's

Chris, following Cheese and Crackers, King Wall
Cheese and Crackers

John near the second bolt of Chronic Fixation at the King Wall
Chronic Fixation

Just past the crux on the fragile upper columns
Cheese and Crackers

Chris warms up on one of the easier routes at the King Wall
Chronic Fixation

Jim belays Chris who is following the second pitch; the traverse is hard, but made easier using chimney moves with your back
Kingdom Come

Jim climbs the first pitch (5.11c) of Kingdom Come; the route continues left, then climbs the broken arching rock rightwards to a belay
Kingdom Come

Closeup of Jim on the first pitch
Kingdom Come

Leading the top section of Unexpected Pleasures on Knob Lock
Unexpected Pleasures

Ade leading on a cold day with brittle ice
Lock and Load

Martin leading the first ascent of Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish
Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish

Topping out on the crux in thin conditions
Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish

Topo of Lock Ness

Lock Ness

Topo of Lock Ness
Lock and Load

Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load
Lock and Load

Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load
Lock and Load

Jim leading the first ascent of The Best Ice Route in the Philippines
The Best Ice Route in the Philippines

Simeon leading the first ascent of Too Early on the lower wall of Lock Ness
Too Early

Jim leading in a snow storm on Camera Trouble on the upper wall of Lock Ness
Camera Trouble

Karen (of the Cliffhanger) preparing to climb at Lock Ness

Leading the offwidth 3rd pitch
Fear of Flying

High in the corner of the third pitch of Hard Times
Hard Times

Simeon at the top of the chimney pitch, belaying Simon
Hard Times

Crossing the river using a Tyrolean traverse

Kevin doing a split at the crux of Falconer
Falconer

Climbing the dramatic arete; this crux is moving onto the face (at the level of the gear in the photo), but the top is no giveaway
Spirit of Adventure

Jeremy climbs the thin face past the bolt at the start
Creation of the World

After placing gear in the corner, Jeremy prepares to layback
Creation of the World

Jeremy places a piece of gear into the expanding flake above the bolt; this gear sucks, and he later removed it
Creation of the World

After reaching a good hold for the left foot, Jeremy scopes the shallow corner for better protection
Creation of the World

At the end of the traverse on the 2nd pitch (5.11a), finally able to place some better gear
Creation of the World

Getting established in the hand crack at the end of the traverse on the second pitch (5.11a)
Creation of the World

Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a)
Creation of the World

Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a)
Creation of the World

The crack turns to wide fists before becoming off-width just above (2nd pitch)
Creation of the World

Approaching the hanging cedar on the 2nd pitch (5.11a)
Creation of the World

Joe belays while Jim eats a granola bar
Creation of the World

Lucie and Jim on the Summit of Giant after climbing Eagle Slab
Eagle Slab

Pushing it, after 20 hours

On the final lap of the 24-hour race

Start of the "24-Hours in the Adirondacks" mountain bike race

Waiting at the transition area

Approaching the Palisades across the ice of Lake Champlain from the Vermont side

George and Joe scope out the route from Lake Champlain; the route is in especially fat conditions and is usually approached from the top via rappel
Drop, Swim, or Die

Climbing the crux column low on the route
Drop, Swim, or Die

The second crux climbs the ice above the climber through the constriction in the rock
Drop, Swim, or Die

The leftmost route at The Palisades; the ice doesn't reach the bottom, thus the first ascent traversed in from the left; Will climbed a direct start on rock reaching the free-hanging pillars on the right side
Lake Champlain Monster

Jeremy checks out the ice with the "Monster" in the background
Lake Champlain Monster

Jeremy scopes out the line from the lake; the first ascent of this route occurred earlier this same day
For The Birds

Jeremy climbs the initial ice bulge, using nuts on the right for protection
For The Birds

The crux of the first pitch is a thin ice column protected with rock gear on the sides
For The Birds

With the gear in place, the ice column can be safely climbed
For The Birds

Just above the belay, the climbing is secure, but the ice is melted out and sketchy
For The Birds

George does the third ascent in one long pitch while Jim and Joe watch
For The Birds

Tom leading the first ascent at Pharaoh Mt.
Here Come the Pigs

Tom posing at the base of his new route

Tres Amigos in the road at Poko

John high on the third pitch of Freedom Flight
Freedom Flight

John high on the third pitch of Freedom Flight
Freedom Flight

Jim low down on Goats Foot, Poko
Goats Foot

Close-up of Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko
Goats Foot

Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko
Goats Foot

Chris and Joe attempting a line left of Goat's Foot
Goats Foot Left

Jim high in the Hidden Pique corner, Poko
Hidden Pique

Thin steep ice on Bushido, Poko
Bushido

Joe leading the final column on Midlife Crisis during the second ground-up ascent
Midlife Crisis

Will leading the Poko Waterfall in lean conditions
Waterfall

Positive Thinking, as seen from the road in fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Jim starting the first pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko
Positive Thinking

Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch
Positive Thinking

Close-up of Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch
Positive Thinking

Simon leading the second pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko
Positive Thinking

Simeon leading on the upper tier of Poko
Run for your Life

John at the base of the Poko Waterfall
Bushido

Joe with refreshments at the base of Cirrhosis

Making the traverse on the first pitch of Son of Slime
Son of Slime

Close-up of Jim making the traverse on Son of Slime
Son of Slime

Ade leading the first pitch of Positive Thinking in fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Ade leading the first pitch of Positive Thinking in fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Dave soloing the lower section of PT in fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions
Midlife Crisis

Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions
Midlife Crisis

Leading the top crux column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions
Midlife Crisis

Leading the third pitch of PT in thin conditions
Positive Thinking

Positive thinking from the road; fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Simeon leading the second pitch
Positive Thinking

Stingray, shown using the first pitch of PT
Stingray

Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead
Waterfall

Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead
Waterfall

Legends contemplate the remaining work on the new routes near Pilgrim's Progress

Lori with her bandage

Legends at the base of Poko

Lori taped and ready to go

Jim at the start of the second pitch (yes, those are bolts next to the crack; what you can't see is that the crack is really the left edge of an enormous arrowhead-shaped detached block)
Pilgrim's Progress

Dennis halfway through the overhangs on the last pitch
Ancient of Days

Getting ready to pull through the exit moves on the last pitch
Ancient of Days

Just below the notch that breaks through the overhangs on the last pitch
Ancient of Days

Pulling through the final overhangs
Ancient of Days

About to pull through the final overhangs
Ancient of Days

The death of my Nikon 28TI
Casual Observer

Straining to pull the final layback move on Morning Star
Morning Star

The final pitch of Morning Star climbs a steep face to a layback finish around a bulge
Morning Star

Cleaning a nut on the second pitch
Morning Star

Bones works his way out the roof on the second pitch
Thunderhead

Bones climbs through the crux on the second pitch; this picture was taken just prior to falling
Thunderhead

Quitting early to help polish off one very large beer

At the top of the off-width section on the first pitch
Fastest Gun

Jeremy follows the first pitch (5.10a) of Pilgrim's Progress
Pilgrim's Progress

Joe places protection in a small cave before moving out onto crappy unconsolidated ice
Moonshine

A few tenuous moves get around the cave
Moonshine

Joe climbs the steeper ice; the crux is just above
Moonshine

Michelle casually follows Moonshine
Moonshine

A climber on the first pitch of Positive Thinking in super fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Dark Lord in melt-out conditions at Poko's upper tier
Dark Lord

Will leading the start of P1, "Hold the Mayo" (WI5+ M6)
Hold the Mayo

Will resting on "Hold the Mayo"
Hold the Mayo

Will higher in the corner on "Hold the Mayo"
Hold the Mayo

Will finally reaches the ice dagger on "Hold the Mayo"
Hold the Mayo

Jim leading pitch 2 of "Hold the Mayo"
Hold the Mayo

Joe solo-aid climbing a route left of Hold the Mayo, Poko Upper Tier
Fear of Frogs

Tom seconding the corner left of Fear of Gravity
Mechanical Hydraulic Control

Tom getting a rest after squeezing through the crux on Your Anus
Your Anus

Setting pro high before climbing the crux; The Jackal overhangs gently for most of its length
The Jackal

With higher gear, Joe moves into the crux once again
The Jackal

Laybacking through the crux
The Jackal

Joe resting before the crux moves on the Jackal
The Jackal

The opening moves of Dark Lord clims ice under a roof, up into a corner, then onto a free-hanging pillar
Dark Lord

Starting up the steep middle section of the route
Dark Lord

The crux of the route climbs melted ice on black rock. The ice in the corner is shaded and therefore more solid than the ice on the face.
Dark Lord

Jeremy leading the huge roof; after this roof, there's a perfect finger crack that leads one into the overhanging rock left-of-center in the photo
Fear of a Flat Planet

Just before the meat of the climbing on Double Diamond
Double Diamond

Sinking the tips into the this layback crack
Double Diamond

Jeremy clips into gear in the thin crack
Double Diamond

Taking a rest on the left
Double Diamond

Climbing through the crux, Jeremy places more gear
Double Diamond

Grabbing the bucket past the crux
Double Diamond

Final moves to the anchor
Double Diamond

Tom and Nona having dessert in the kitchen after a day of ice climbing

Series 1: Dennis climbs the initial intimidating wall
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Series 2: Starting into the crux finger crack
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Series 3: Struggling with the crux of the route
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Full sequence of Dennis climbing Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Don climbs the lower crux section of the route
Romano's Route

Lucie painting at the Spider's Web

Will traversing into the base of the Eternity crack; we bailed here due to wetness
Eternity

Belaying at the base of the Web
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Colin reaches for gear after the difficult traverse
Drop, Fly, or Die

Colin climbs the steep crack of Drop, Fly, or Die, belayed by Joe
Drop, Fly, or Die

About midway up the diagonal crack
It's Only Entertainment

Placing gear at midpoint on the diagonal crack
It's Only Entertainment

At the end of the diagonal crack; a couple of pieces here protect the crux left traverse
It's Only Entertainment

Halfway across the crux traverse
It's Only Entertainment

Awkard jams at the start of Ku Klux Ken
Ku Klux Ken

Chris powers through a couple strnuous moves
Ku Klux Ken

Pretty cool pinch hold
Ku Klux Ken

Laybacks near the top
Ku Klux Ken

A long reach; still not there yet
Ku Klux Ken

On the traverse to the final ice smear
The Apology

Reaching the final ice smear after 80' of dry tooling
The Apology

The final moves up the ice after the traverse
The Apology

Just off the ground, Chris searches for his first placement
Unknown

Joe belays Chris as he attempts a new line
Unknown

Chris places the purple Camalot, the first piece of protection
Unknown

Scanning the rock for a possible line; after this point, Chris aborted the attempt
Unknown

Joe climbs the initial section of ice that leads to an overhanging crack; David sets up in the background to shoot The Apology
Where's Karen

Jim and John on the way to Cragsmere

Lucie in the canoe near Cragsmere on Upper Chateaugay Lake

Kristy leading on the Diagonal on Wallface
Diagonal

Chris and Simon on the top of the ramp on the Diagonal, Wallface
Diagonal

Looking down from the roof pitch of Mental Blocks at Stuart, Roger, and Jim
Mental Blocks

Jim leading the third pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface
Mental Blocks

Napping on Lunch Ledge, three pitches from the top
Free Ride

Moving into the first crux of the route on the first pitch; unfortunately, the business is right at the start of the route
Free Ride

At the belay on the Shield; these two pitches are some of the best face climbing in the northeast
Free Ride

Dennis leads pitch 4, the first Shield pitch
Free Ride

At the start of pitch 8, the "Endurance Corner"; the climbing here is very sustained, and the rock is a bit grainy
Free Ride

Resting about halfway through pitch 8
Free Ride

At the top of the cliff, the route traverses below a giant roof; a couple of hard [Houdini] moves, combined with awesome exposure, make this pitch a "must do"
Free Ride

Wallface, taken in the early morning from the viewpoint in Indian Pass

Close-up of the route Free Ride on Wallface
Free Ride

The route Free Ride on Wallface
Free Ride

Jim leading the second pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface
Mental Blocks

Joe follows the steep initial pitch of Master Craft (led by Dennis unseen above)
Master Craft

Lucie painting at the Washbowl Cliff, below the route Flashdance

Unknown climber high on Wind Jammer, a perfect splitter crack
Wind Jammer

Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier
Polar Soldier

Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier
Polar Soldier

Joe gets established after the traverse and prepares to climb the overhanging ice above
Yellow Pillars

Climbing into the steeper ice of the crux
Yellow Pillars

Overview showing Bombcicle and Yellow Pillars
Yellow Pillars

Alabama Hills (map)

Leaping between boulders

Tons of rock, like J-Tree but without all the gorgeous desert plant life

Easy face climbing on plates with cool orange lichen
Muffy

Puzzling out the routes in the Corridor

Belaying in the Corridor

Starting up Pangborn, one of the longer routes at the Hills
Pangborn

Dancing up the face
Pangborn

Looking like an ant on the face, Tommy runs up the endless plates to the anchor
Pangborn

Old school Tommy sport climbing…yeah boy!
Call of the Canyon

Resting at a good handhold
Call of the Canyon

Resting at a good handhold
Call of the Canyon

Beautiful Alabama Hills
 

Crimping at the start of Hang 'Em High
Hang 'Em High

More crimps through the crux
Hang 'Em High

Grabbing for a draw
Hang 'Em High

The route finishes in a crack
Hang 'Em High

Palming low down on the route
High Plains Drifter

Thin crimps at the crux
High Plains Drifter

Sweet face climbing with high steps
High Plains Drifter

Alimosa River Canyon (map)

Looking down after the difficulties
Unknown

Climbing the perfect splitter hand crack
Unknown

Posing after the difficult initial hand crack
Unknown

Parking in the boulder field in front of the crag

The "Upper Wall" of the Alimosa River Canyon

Making shadows at sunset

Tommy's truck parked next to a giant boulder

Gearing up for another crack climb

Following an awesome hand crack
Unknown

Angel Falls (map)

Rapping the largest waterfall, Big Angel; there are a bunch of route possibilities here

The easier line at Little Angel
Unknown

Going through a small, unprotected roof
Unknown

Clearing the roof
Unknown

Preparing to climb Little Angel

Rapping Little Angel; we led two routes here, one directly under the rappeller, and one to the right
 

Appalachian Trail (map)

Tracy and Jim at the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail -- Springer Mountain

Tracy and Jim relaxing after a day of hiking; notice the paper towels, Sierra Club cups, and prototype Marmot bivy sacks

Posing for the camera somewhere in Georgia

Tracy and Pete crossing the Kennebec…naked

Jim and Tracy take a refreshing dip in Frye Brook

Relaxing in New Hampshire

Reprovisioning in Tennessee

Tracy at camp somewhere in Tennessee; by this time, we ditched the bivys in place of a prototype Early Winters single-wall Gortex tent

Tracy carrying a monster load in a Trailwise frame pack, somewhere in the deep south

Taking pictures in Vermont

lean-to somewhere in Vermont

Tired boy in Virginia

This is what happens with lots of exercise and insufficient calories

We hiked the Appalachian Trail when I was 15

Arapiles (Australia) (map)

View of Arapiles from a distance

Watch out for Kangaroos

A stumpy in the campground

Ade leading the first pitch of Resignation
Resignation

Bard Buttress in the early morning light

Bouldering in the early morning light

Kangaroo bouncing around beneath the Bard

Jim leading steep rock on Resignation
Resignation

Ade and Martin at the belay on Resignation
Resignation

Martin at a belay on Resignation
Resignation

Ade following the second pitch of Resignation
Resignation

Street life in Natimuk

Ade leading the first pitch of Didgeridoo
Didgeridoo

Organ Pipes in the early morning light

Leading the top pitch of Tanin
Tanin

Ade following the last pitch of Lamplighter
Lamplighter

Jim and Martin at the top of the Pharos after completing Lamplighter
Lamplighter

Ade rapping off the Pharos after completing Lamplighter
Lamplighter

Ade following the top pitch of Arachnus
Arachnus

Martin at the third belay of Arachnus
Arachnus

Jim at the crux of Chinese Algebra, one of the hardest routes we did at Arapiles
Chinese Algebra

Margin leading Voodoo
Voodoo

Arches (map)

Lots of arches, seen from the road

Navajo Arch, got to hike to see this one

Another cool arch, also have to hike to see it

Roadside rock, all balanced and stuff

Scene of the "incident"; cool arch, too many people (had to photoshop them out)

Jumble of redish rocks called the Fiery Furnace; pretty cool

Big span, amazing this is still standing

Arco (Italy) (map)

Lunch in the olive grove near the base of the routes

Hanging out at the cliffs near Nago

Riva Del Garda

Extensive limestone cliffs at Nago

Thin curved house in Nago

Narrow streets in Nago

Sport climbing on great limestone
Equinox

Avalanche Gulch (map)

Colin follows the first pitch, belayed from above by Tom, just before a major storm hit
The Fire Spire

Tommy and Colin gearing up at the base of the spire
The Fire Spire

Tom leading the first pitch of the spire
The Fire Spire

Bangkok (Thailand) (map)

People waiting for the bus in Bangkok

Batangas (Philippines) (map)

Martin and Lucie on the dive boat

Filipino children

Beartooth Mountains (map)

Tom hiking towards the Bear's Tooth
East Ridge

The Bear's Tooth, up close and personal after 9 miles of approach
East Ridge

Tom on the 4th class slabs just below the south face of the Bear's Tooth spire
East Ridge

Beaver Creek (map)

The Touareg in use -- early morning at the camp spot in Beaver Creek

The Eye of the Needle formation, just right of center

Belaying Tommy on P1, enjoying the first sun in days
Batteries Not Included

Rappelling through the "eye" of the needle at the top of Batteries Not Included
Batteries Not Included

Rappelling through the "eye" of the needle at the top of Batteries Not Included
Batteries Not Included

Gearing up at the base of the route
Batteries Not Included

Fording the stream to get to the Eye of the Needle formation; very cold

Tom leading P1, slightly off route. The "eye" after which the formation is named is visible above him.
Batteries Not Included

Colin and Tommy at the belay in front of the "eye"
Batteries Not Included

Colin follows P1 of Batteries Not Included; crisp limestone
Batteries Not Included

Colin follows P1 of Batteries Not Included; crisp limestone
Batteries Not Included

Colin rappels through the "eye"
Batteries Not Included

The Eye of the Needle formation

Ben Nevis (Scotland) (map)

The Ben as seen from the CIC hut

Climbers gearing up at the CIC hut; Jim is the tall one in the orange top

On the approach to the CIC hut

The Ben, as seen from about half way on the approach. Too bad you can't drive up this far.

The Ben as seeon from the approach

Gear explosion in our tiny room above a pub in Fort William

Pretty river on the Ben

Lots of routes here - the Buachaille Etive Mor

Lots of routes here - the Buachaille Etive Mor

Descending the Ben toward the Red Burn area

Eric in a mess of ropes after topping out
Point Five Gully

Standing on the summit plateau after topping out
Point Five Gully

A view of Point Five Gully on the approach. The route follows the obvious deep gully on the left.
Point Five Gully

Jim on the steep snow fields on the approach to the base of the route. Our ascent was the first for the year, so we were breaking trail.
Point Five Gully

Leading the first pitch, which was a friable crust over rock
Point Five Gully

Unknown Italian climbers attempting to pass
Point Five Gully

Self portrait of Eric, cold and unhappy, but loving life
Point Five Gully

The final belay before topping out
Point Five Gully

Breaking through the cornice onto the flat summit plateau
Point Five Gully

White out on the summit; Jim is the tall person on the right
Point Five Gully

Eric standing next to the emergency shelter
Point Five Gully

Descending off the summit through intermetent white out

Descending from the col back into the valley

Descending from the col back into the valley

Descending from the col back into the valley

View of the Ben while descending from the summit

View of the Ben while descending from the summit

Approaching the CIC hut after the descent; things starting to clear up

A view of the mountains on the drive up from Glasgow

Bishop Creek (map)

Pretty much the only boulder we could climb; we suck
Unknown

Shredded hands from 31 straight days of climbing

Slab at the top of P3
West Face

Nearing the top of P3, Lake Sabrina in the background
West Face

Leading P4 in the rain
West Face

View of the Bishop Creek valley from the top of P1
West Face

Cardinal Pinnacle, as seen from the dirt road on the other side of the valley

In a warm puffy jacket at the P2 belay, Aspendell in the background; the vansion is parked in the pullout on the road above Colin's head
West Face

Black Canyon (map)

The view downstream from North Chasm View

Looking upstream from Russian Arete, near the bottom
Russian Arete

Looking upstream from Russian Arete, near the bottom
Russian Arete

Looking upstream from Russian Arete, near the top of the route
Russian Arete

Chris at the bottom of the route
Russian Arete

Blacktail Butte (map)

Avoiding the snow in the high country, we retreated to Blacktail Butte and climbed a couple routes
Inconceivable

Steep, polished limestone at Blacktail Butte
Inconceivable

Blue Cloud Spires (map)

Rocks littering the field near our camp site

Our camp spot next to large boulders. Too bad there's ticks.

Cows graze nearby our camp site

Scoping out the topouts of the routes on Elk Rock

Rock hoping around the top of Elk Rock

Colin on top of large boulder

Awesome views off the back side of Elk Rock

Tommy climbs the excellent corner crack on the Jedi Wall
Book of Payne

Good, well protected climbing at the "top rope area"; at least it's out of the wind.
Unknown

Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day
The Road Goes On Forever

Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day
The Road Goes On Forever

Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day
The Road Goes On Forever

Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day
The Road Goes On Forever

Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day
The Road Goes On Forever

Super fun climbing on a freezing cold day
The Road Goes On Forever

Big buckets on steep rock, but piggin' cold
Rat King

Big buckets on steep rock, but piggin' cold
Rat King

Boracay (Philippines) (map)

Sitting in a tree above the ocean after emerging from Crystal Cave

Lucie being blown by the wind at sunset (she's actually doing a handspring)

Martin and Eric are comfortable with their naked-ness

Sunset at Puka Beach; for some reason, this beach seems always empty

Pretty sailboat and men repainting a boat hull at low tide

Boulder Canyon (map)

Fanni belays Adrian on some route; Adrian is about to make the crux moves
Unknown

British Virgin Islands (Caribbean) (map)

Lucie and Jim on the boat somewhere in the Caribbean

Murray in his element, sailing in the British Virgin Islands

Murray and Kyoko on the boat

Castle Rocks (map)

Hanging out in the van at a City of Rocks campsite

Store in Almo

Hiking around Castle Rock

Starting out on Red Rib, which I thought was pretty hard for the grade
Red Rib

South face of Castle Rock

Pretty rainbow during one of the frequent showers

The most over bolted route on the planet, we had to back clean draws to make it to the top
Mantel Dynamics

Comp Rock, the other "big" rock at Castle Rocks
 

Comp Rock again, named for a rock climbing competition that occurred here

Sleeping under an overhanging wall, waiting out the rain

Castle Valley (map)

A labeled view of the Rectory and other towers from Castleton Tower

Casey climbs the sustained big-hands crack on the first pitch; the route climbs through the roof above, then underclings right on slippery calcite
North Face

Looking up from the second belay, Casey climbs the first off-width section on the third pitch
North Face

A view of the north face of Castleton Tower; the North Chimney climbs the depression on the sunny side of the tower

View of the Rectory as seen from Castleton Tower

Closeup view of the Rectory as seen from Castleton Tower

Jim and Casey pose at the top of Castleton Tower after climbing the North Face
North Face

A view of the north face of Castleton Tower

Castleton Tower, the Rectory, The Nuns, and The Priest as seen from the parking area

A topo of the North Face of Castleton Tower
North Face

Looking down from the crux of the second pitch at Casey who is belaying below
North Face

Colin prepares to descend after bailing on Jah Man due to high winds

Cathedral Ledge (map)

Popping veins
Diedre

Reaching for the upper crack in Dresden; the climb ascents Nutcracker for a bit, then moves leftwards into the crux Dresden crack
Dresden

Catskills (map)

The only easy route in the Kitchen
Coal Kill Falls

Boney hanging out in the Kitchen

Bones dances up the wet and drippy Mephisto Waltz
Mephisto Waltz

Joe climbs steep ice on "The Window"
The Window

Climbing the upper ice above the window; the route "The Advocate" is the yellow column to his left
The Window

At the start of the route in brilliant sunshine
Gomorrah

High in the corner; you can see the bolts protecting the route (!?!?)
Gomorrah

Some routes in the Hell Hole

Central Cordillera (Philippines) (map)

View of fish stand, laundry, and woman with child, taken from the top of the jeepney as we passed through the town of Banaue on our way to Batad

View of a sea of tricycles taken from the top of the jeepney as we passed through the town of Banaue on our way to Batad

Have scotch will travel -- this is the jeepney we hired to travel from Banaue to Sagada

Driver that took us to Sagada

Rice terraces between Banga-an and Tanulong

The jeepney on the way to Batad became stuck, so we all grabbed our stuff and continued on foot

Rice terraces, traditional houses, and a carabao in the town of Batad

Lucie in front of a traditional Ifugao house in the town of Batad

Rice terraces and some traditional huts in Batad; we passed this on our way to Tapplya Waterfall

Sitting at Simon's, looking out over the rugged Batad valley and its rice terraces

View of the rugged Batad valley and its rice terraces

Emiliano working on a bulul carving

Exploring the rice terraces near town

To prepare the rice patty, a woman pulls weeks, then pushes them deep into the mud to rot

Clear water pounds over the waterfall; the ferns on the rock walls of the amphitheatre undulated from the wind created by the falling water

Black Bishop

Black Bishop

Black King

Black King

Black Kinght

Black Kinght

Black Pawn

Black Pawn

Black Queen

Black Queen

Black Rook

Chess set

Chess set

Chess set

White Bishop

White Bishop

White King

White King

White Knight

White Knight

White Pawn

White Pawn

White Queen

White Queen

White Rook

Chess set

Street stall selling chickens and other raw meats

A group of people decide to butcher their carabao using one lane of the road

The entrance to Lumiang Cave, stuffed with over 100 coffins, some of which are more than 500 years old

We regretted not bringing our rock gear to Sagada, as there is plenty of interesting limestone towers to climb, like this one in Echo Valley
Unknown

View of coffins hanging on a cliff face in Echo Valley

View of coffins hanging on a cliff face in Echo Valley

Unhappy carabao

Lucie plants rice with Gloria, a native of Tanulong

A man and his grandson take a break from working in the rice terraces

A man turns up the soil in a rice patty using a carabao

Cerru Del Canjorro (Spain) (map)

Hiking through olive groves to the crag

Jen climbs a warmup route at a hidden crag near Yaén
Cordura Dura

Jen climbs a sandbag route in the late afternoon light; there's no way this route is 6b
La Ley Del Deseo

Chamonix (France) (map)

The private climbing gym at the alpine school; an awesome place to spend a snowy afternoon

Mike and Laurv in Servoz where we stayed

Crappy photo of Mt. Blanc, the only view of the mountain we had during our 2-week trip

On our last day, the sky cleared enough for us to see the surrounding peaks

The alpinism school in Chamonix

The headquarters for all that is alpine

Charlevoix-Est (Canada) (map)

View of the route on the approach
La Pomme D'or

Will simul-climbing the first two pitches
La Pomme D'or

Will leading the 4th pitch
La Pomme D'or

Looking up at the 4th pitch with a cool mixed chimney on the left
La Pomme D'or

Will following the crux 5th pitch
La Pomme D'or

Will leading the 6th pitch
La Pomme D'or

Roland's sled from hell
La Pomme D'or

Will leading the 7th pitch
La Pomme D'or

Chilliwack (Canada) (map)

Pulling up to the ledge at the end of the second pitch
South-West Ridge, North Nesakwatch Spire

Leading the cracks on the headwall on the seventh pitch
South-West Ridge, North Nesakwatch Spire

Approaching the talus basin on Mt. Rexford

Preparing to leave for Mt. Rexford early in the morning

On the summit of North Nesakwatch Spire
South-West Ridge, North Nesakwatch Spire

On the summit of Mt. Rexford, looking west
West Ridge, Mt. Rexford

Looking down at the Nesakwatch Spires from the summit of Mt. Rexford

Rexford mountain range with labels, taken from the bivy on the Northeast Buttress of Mt. Slesse

Simon at the bivy on Slesse
Northeast Buttress

Evening sun over the Illusion Peaks, Nesakwatch Spires, and Mt. Rexford
Northeast Buttress

Triumph on Slesse with Simon's glasses half eaten by rats
Northeast Buttress

Slesse panorama with labels; taken from the summit of Mt. Rexford

Chilliwack mountains

The summit of Mt. Slesse as seen from the east
Northeast Buttress

Chimborazo (Ecuador) (map)

Summit of Chimborazo, 6310m
Whymper's Route (South-West Ridge)

Lucie, modeling above 16,000 feet

City of Rocks (map)

Tommy shows his stuff at the start of Animal Cracker
Animal Cracker

Tommy approaches the offwidth section
Animal Cracker

Moving through the initial bulge on big jugs
Colossus

Chalking up at the initial bulge; this section is pretty easy because of the large holds…the crux is moving through the hueco near the top of the route
Colossus

Bev lowers from the anchors with colorful fall foliage in the background
Bumblie Takes a Tumblie

Climbing nice patina holds at the top of the route
New York Is Not The City

Crimpy changeover in order to make the clip
New York Is Not The City

Reach for the jug
New York Is Not The City

The start of the route is the mental crux, as one has to layback up the arete on small holds (protected by an RP), shooting for the obvious pocket, clip a bolt on the left, then make long reaches up the arete to better holds
Terror in Tiny Town

Jim grabs the better holds at the start of the route; the technical crux lies above
Terror in Tiny Town

Beverly, at breakfast, makes assignments for the day

Camp at the City

Lucie cooks yummy chicken stew at camp

Lucie has an art show at camp

Relaxing at camp talking about the upcoming '04 election

Tommy and Michelle drinking…how about a beer?

Tommy and Michelle show off their hair
The Pygmies Got Stoned

Contemplating the next move
The Pygmies Got Stoned

Laybacking and stemming up the side of the hueco allows one to reach a high jug
Quest For Fire

Michelle makes the weird crimpy layback with the palm dyno at the end of the second pitch
Morning Glory

Lucie paints the colorful foliage near Parking Lot Rock

Michelle and Beverly hike into the area behind Parking Lot Rock

Our first route at the City -- a casual face climb up a rib of rock
Delay of Game

Michelle does a split at the crux
Tow Away Zone

Tommy belays Jim on Sabbatical
Sabbatical

Looking out towards the Sisters from the top of Redtail on Rabbit Rock

The crux of the route is moving past the first bolt, shown here
Redtail

Getting established just past the crux after the first bolt
Redtail

Michelle reaches the top of Redtail
Redtail

Michelle clips a bolt
Looker

Crimpy holds on Looker
Looker

Michelle traverses 30' into the start of the route while John and Andrew spot
I can't Believe It

South Creek as seen from Flaming Rock; Bumblie Rock is just right of center

South Creek as seen from Flaming Rock; Bumblie Rock is right of center and Slabbage Patch is left of center

Tommy and Michelle climbing in the cold morning wind
Intruding Dike

Cochiti Mesa (map)

View from our van, parked on the road that traverses the top of Cochiti Mesa

Wandering around in the rain, which happened every day of our trip

Colin sketches in the van waiting out the rain

Finally the sun; we ran out and climbed a few routes before dark

Perplexed by a sea of pockets at the start of the route
Open Mouth Syndrome

Typical pocket at Cochiti
Open Mouth Syndrome

Typical pocket at Cochiti
Open Mouth Syndrome

Sending the super-overhanging Prow
The Prow

View from the descent to the South Cliffband

Pulling the crux on big jugs
The Prow

View from the Vista Point Overlook

Cody (map)

From the end of Hunter Creek Road, we approached Mean Green and other routes in the Majo Ranch area

Jim climbs the first pitch (WI4) of Mean Green, belayed by Tommy; the second pitch can be seen above
Mean Green

Joe climbs the third pitch of Mean Green (WI4); the pitches here are separated by several hundred meters of easy scrambling up the drainage
Mean Green

Joe climbs the crux pitch of Mean Green (WI5), belayed by Tommy
Mean Green

The route Mean Green as seen from the approach gully
Mean Green

Cogne (Italy) (map)

We climbed this route despite that it was falling apart around us

The busy ski town of Cormeyeur; very pretty, but very busy

Coire An Lochain (Scotland) (map)

A helicopter lowers a person to the ridge during training exercises

Danger sign at the top of the cliff

Eric traversing left to the belay at the top of P1
Jet Stream

Colorado National Monument (map)

A lizard we saw on the hike out

Another lizard we saw on the hike out

Lots of towers as seen from the road near the visitor's center

Pipe Organ Spire (left) and Organ Pipe Spire

Kissing Couple, as seen from the top of Indepdence Monument

We nearly walked into some sheep on the way out…really!
 

Starting up the third pitch easy chimney
Otto's Route

Pulling the final move onto the summit
Otto's Route

The final rappel off Independence Monument
Otto's Route

At the belay below the summit
Otto's Route

Independence Monument as seen from the rim; the Kissing Couple is to the left, Rainbow Tower behind, and Grand View Spire to the right

Independence Monument as seen from the approach trail; looks narrow and overhanging from this angle

A nice spot at the belay at the top of the second pitch
Otto's Route

The fourth pitch face climb, made easy by the drilled stances (thanks Otto)
Otto's Route

Bomber anchor in sandstone
Otto's Route

Nice to see our president getting out
Otto's Route

Colin's signature in the summit register
Otto's Route

Some goodies we found in the summit register box
Otto's Route

Massive runout up to the capstone
Otto's Route

Ahhhh…protection; notice the drilled stances up the face above him
Otto's Route

Hard pulling over the overhang leads to a good ledge and fixed anchor
Otto's Route

Woo hoo
Otto's Route

Starting up the first pitch of Otto's Route
Otto's Route

Columbus (map)

Tom showing off his new hand plane

Tommy and Joe wait for their laundry

The "Mother Ship" in the early morning light

Returning to the "Mother Ship" after a day climbing

Chowing down in the "Mother Ship"

Tommy's fine craftmanship on display in the center of his 18-sided house

The "Mother Ship" is a cordwood masonery house made using wood cut from forest service land in East Rosebud Canyon

Tommy happy out on the range

Tommy's new project -- a 10x20 barn

Entry way sign welcoming Nona, his wife

Colin trying to look all buff and stuff

Inside of the Mother Ship

Another view inside the Mother Ship

Awesome Montana sky

Overview of Tommy's compound

Cordillera Real (Bolivia) (map)

Driver's helper; this young boy taught us how to chew cocoa leaves

High camp
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Suiting up for the glacier to high camp
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Llamas carrying gear to base camp at Laguna Negra
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Illampu (6368m) in Bolivia, taken from high on the ridge on Ancohuma
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Arrival in Cocoyo
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Establishing base camp
Southwest Face, Normal Route

View of mountains from base camp
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Ancohuma (6427m) From Camp I. The climbing route we attempted ascends the ice fall to the rght of the picture onto the glacial plateau above.
Southwest Face, Normal Route

A view of Ancohuma (6427m) from high camp at 5600m. The climbing route we attempted crosses the glacial cirque towards the peak, then traverses right to a snowy ramp that is climbed to a plateau. From the plateau, the route turns left traversing to the base of a steep face, which is ascended up to the summit ridge, which is followed to the top.
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Enjoying the sunset at Camp I
Southwest Face, Normal Route

One of the boys we hired to drive the llamas
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Llamas carry gear to/from base camp
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Martin in front of his tent at Camp II
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Simon wanders up the glacier between Camp I and II
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Camp II at sunset; everyone has already gone to bed in preparation for the climb
Southwest Face, Normal Route

Chris showing a map to some kids

Unloading the truck in Cocoyo

Eric on the approach to base camp

Three girls in Cocoyo

Expedition photo taken by a local in the town of Cocoyo (taken during the trek back from base camp to Sorata)

A family peels a field of potatos

Street life in La Paz

A disorganized web of wires above the street

Women in traditional dress on the streets of La Paz

Lucie doing some cleaning at base camp

Looking east over an alpine lake at an impressive granite face

Travel to Sorata

Costa Blanca (Spain) (map)

Calpe and the Peñon, home to many long routes at Costa Blanca

Ian roping up at the base of the route
Diedro Magicos

Ian starting out the fourth pitch
Diedro Magicos

The Puig Campana from Finestrat

The Puig Campana from Finestrat

Showing the route of Diedro Magicos
Diedro Magicos

Ben following yet another bolted 6a at Sector Concepción
Y tú ¿Quién eres?

Looking east from the summit of the Divinio, showing the lower Sella valley and the Mediterranean Sea beyond

The hermitage at the top of the hill above the village of Sella

Ian posing on another 6a+
El Gran Coscorrón

Clipping the first bolt; the route continues out the mouth of the cave at 6c
Ojo de Odra

Looking down onto the village of Sella

The street near our house; you can see the cliffs of Sella (Badall de Tafarmaig, Galera de Tafarmach, El Collado, and Pared de Rosalía)

Looking towards the cliffs from the main square; Bar Paco is closed

The village of Sella with the Puig Campana in the background

View of the climbing areas of Sella from the village of Sella (the graveyard is on the hill on the right)

The cliffs of Sella

The village of Sella with the Puig Campana in the background

More cliffs of Sella (Badall de Tafarmaig, Galera de Tafarmach, El Collado, and Pared de Rosalía)

Jim and John hiking near Sella

Sea cliffs along the Sierra de Toix

Ian and Lucie at the top of the cliff after finishing the route
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Fred traversing on the first pitch
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Ian starting out from the belay on the third pitch
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Ben completing the traverse on the third pitch
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Ian and Ben at the belay at the end of the third pitch
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Ian starting the fifth pitch; too hot for shoes
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Ben and Fred enjoying the sun at the top of the fourth pitch
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

The whole crew, after completing the route
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Getting read to rap down to the base of the routes by the sea; notice the collection of Wild Country #3 rocks used for the ENP casings
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Cotopaxi (Ecuador) (map)

Leaving the drop-off point for the hike to the Whymper Refugio
Normal Route

Crawford Notch (map)

High on Dracula in thin conditions
Dracula

Cuenca (Spain) (map)

Houses built over the cliff in the old section of Cuenca

View of the cliffs of Cuenca

Yet another limestone face climb in Cuenca
Alfarzar-1

Climbing a beautiful orange corner system
Sudor y Sangre

Climbing a beautiful orange corner system
Sudor y Sangre

Lucie shows off her painting

Jen pulls the high crux through the bulge near the top of the route
Monte De Venus

Picturesque climbing near the start of the route
Monte De Venus

Cuzco (Peru) (map)

Arriving at the airport in Cuzco

Entering a local restaurant in Cuzco

Simeon and Lucie on the train to Aguas Calientes

Approaching Abra de Warmiwañusqa (Dead Woman Pass) at 4200m, a porter struggles under an enormous load of gear that tourists refuse to carry; this is the highest point on the Inca Trail

The gang poses on the Inca Trail

Machu Picchu in the early morning

Lucie hiking on the Inca Trail

Group on day 3 of the Inca Trail

Precise stonework at Machu Picchu

Lucie in front of some fancy Inca stonework

The group poses in front of an Inca wall

Denali National Park (map)

Expedition boys before leaving for Talkeetna

Denali from Foraker base camp

Sitting around base camp
Southeast Ridge

Arriving at base camp
Southeast Ridge

Fiddling with gear at base camp
Southeast Ridge

Setting up a belay on the Southeast Ridge
Southeast Ridge

Mark, low down on the ridge
Southeast Ridge

Mt. Foraker as seen from the Kahiltna glacier

Foraker as seen from the Kahiltna glacier

Shuttle that takes climbers between Anchorage and Talkeetna

In the airplane waiting for takeoff

Devil's Tower (map)

Reading the register on the summit.

Awesome Devil's Tower

Awesome Devil's Tower

Awesome Devil's Tower

Getting up early to hit the Tower

Cool camp setup, perfect because it rained every day for 3 weeks

Leaving the P1 belay and starting up P2
Solar

Excellent corner jamming on P2
Solar

Finally, a break in the jamming
Solar

Reading the guidebook, scoping out routes

At the top of the first pitch
Tulgey Wood

Climbers on the famous P2 of El Matador. The woman following was barely able to make the stem.
El Matador

Climbers on the famous P2 of El Matador. The woman following was barely able to make the stem.
El Matador

Colin at the top of P1 of El Matador. We decided to bail here.

Dolomites (Italy) (map)

John steals pillow cases to carry his gear

John on a typical Dolomites ledge
South-West Corner, "Trenker"

John following a pitch low in the corner
South-West Corner, "Trenker"

Sassolungo towers from the height of the pass near the Sella towers

John on the South Face of the first Sella Tower
North-West Arete, "Kasnakoff"

Jim descending the Sella Towers

John descending in the Sella Towers

The streets of Trento

The streets of Trento

Close-up of John nearing the second belay on the South-West Arete of Delago Tower
South-West Arete "Delagokante"

John nearing the second belay on the South-West Arete of Delago Tower
South-West Arete "Delagokante"

John climbing on the arete
South-West Arete "Delagokante"

John scrambling near the Vajolet Towers

Dragoon Mountains (map)

The Hands formation in the late afternoon light

View of the Dragoons from the west, with views of Whale Dome, Westworld Dome, Squaretop, and Rockfellow Group

View of the Dragoons from the west, with views of Whale Dome, Westworld Dome, Squaretop, and Rockfellow Group

Labeled view of the Dragoons from the west, with views of Whale Dome, Westworld Dome, Squaretop, and Rockfellow Group

Dennis leading the third pitch of Warpaint; this part is about 5.9
Warpaint

"Elsie the Cow" formation, named for obvious reasons

The second pitch (5.8) of Warpaint (the only easy pitch on the route)
Warpaint

Looking down at Jim (top of P2) and Eric (top of P3) from the middle of the fourth pitch
Warpaint

Jim leading from the belay on the fifth pitch of Warpaint; the crux of this pitch is just before the photo was taken
Warpaint

Jim and Dennis hanging out on the summit of Whale Dome after completing the ascent
Moby Dick

The Whale Dome with the route Moby Dick labeled
Moby Dick

Dennis leads the 5.8 cracks on the first pitch of Moby Dick
Moby Dick

Eric and Jim hanging out at the belay at the top of the fourth pitch
Moby Dick

Shadow puppets on the summit of Whale Dome
Moby Dick

Whale Dome, as seen from Westworld Dome

East Rosebud (map)

Topping out on The Ramp -- the top of the 5.9 variation on pitch 5
The Ramp

At the top of the first pitch of The Ramp
The Ramp

The first two pitches of the route -- each a rope-stretching 200 feet -- ascend this massive piece of ice
California Ice

The lower section of the route as seen from the descent gully
California Ice

The East Rosebud canyon; there's a beautiful 5.10 route up the prow just left of center starting from the tree ledge

The East Rosebud Lake as seen from "The Hump" on the East Rosebud - Cooke City Trail; just past this hump is the drainage for California Ice

Starting the first pitch (WI4) of California Ice
California Ice

The third pitch (WI3) goes to the right of the cave and up to easier ice
California Ice

Joe climbs easy ice in the drainage below California Ice; we climbed about 2000' of easy ice to get to the base of the route
California Ice

Around the final bend in the drainage we can finally see the main ice flow -- 400' of WI4 ice
California Ice

Joe looks glum on the descent
California Ice

Joe climbs the second pitch (WI4) in a snow squal
California Ice

Tommy and Joe take a rest at the base of Sand Dune Falls; unfortunately, the bottom portion of the route was missing -- she no go
Sand Dune Falls

Returning from a failed attempt at Sand Dune Falls

El Chorro (Spain) (map)

Climber pulls the roof at the end of the first pitch (6a)
Escalopendra Guajani

Jen climbs a difficult face with "flaky jugs"
Engendro Caneki

Lucie and Jen laugh it up at the base of the crag; Mike in the background

Lucie sketches at El Chorro

El Potrero Chico (Mexico) (map)

View of the cliffs from the camp site

John calls home

Mini Super El Toro

Lucie, Simon, and John cooking

Lucie and John planning an excursion in town

El Cielo Rey from high up on the Outrage Wall

Simon rapping off the second spire
Aguja Cielo Rey

John at the first belay of Aguja Cielo Rey
Aguja Cielo Rey

Simon leading high on Snot Girlz
Snott Girlz

Jim at the third belay of El Diablos Path
El Diablos Path

El Rito (map)

View of the conglomerate as seen from the road

A scary self portrait

Approaching in the rain, of course

Our campsite at El Rito; cows roamed around our van at night

High on Boltaneer
Boltaneer

In a sea of knobs and cookie-chip chunks
Boltaneer

Amazing jugs where cobbles used to be
Boltaneer

A super juggy and high-quality route
Boltaneer

Jug pulling on a steep, beautiful wall
Blackballed

El Rito, Pirates Wall, as seen from the road

Elbsandstein (Germany) (map)

By the end of the trip, Rayko's tips were bleeding

Ring for protection and belays

A route book; every tower has one of these

An open route book

Standing in front of the second Bergsport Arnold store, this one in Bad Schandau

Trolly car ferries tourists from Bad Schandau up the valley to the trailheads

Twin towers; we climbed the tower on the left

Unknown climber peering down from the top of a neighboring tower

Climbers dot the various towers in the Bielatal region

Climbers dot the various towers in the Bielatal region

Giant rappel rings; the flat spot on the top is so that you can clip a caribiner to it

Bomber thread
Nordwestweg

A climber on a difficult route (you can just make out his red pants on the upper left side)

The amazing Frienstein; we climbed on the neighboring formation

At the belay after a terrifying lead, the scariest of the trip
Nordwand

Roping up for what turned out to be the scariest lead of the trip
Nordwand

Rayko attempts the second pitch, but is off route on a 5.10c
Nordwand

Folling the first pitch, which had cracks, but no gear (if ONLY I had a cam)
Nordwand

Approaching the belay at the end of the first pitch; notice the furry runner around the large flake (the furrier the better)
Südwand

Topping out on the second pitch
Goldsteigkante

Belaying from the top of another tower

The start of the route involved very pocketed rock with good pro
Goldsteigkante

Moving through the super featured rock on the first pitch
Goldsteigkante

Looking back at the second pitch, a traversing affair with many tied off flakes and threads
Südwand

Starting up the second pitch -- a bit of a run after the first bolt
Südwand

A jammed knot before the real difficulties; Rayko rappelled from this one
Wahnsinnsverschneidung

Following the first pitch, very pumpy here with poor gear
Goldsteigkante

Following the honeycomb section of the second pitch, just before the traverse
Südwand

Following the honeycomb section of the second pitch
Südwand

To get off one tower, we rappelled into a gap and climbed another tower which had the rappel line
Alter Web

Prepping for a hard lead
Direkter Südwestweg

Scoping out the route ahead, very steep here
Direkter Südwestweg

A climber on difficult route (he's in orange and yellow)

Cool honeycomb rock covered the entire second pitch

Cool honeycomb rock covered the entire second pitch

A long pitch of runout crack climbing, but with good plates on the face. The chimney topout was terrifying
Südwand

Following the chimney topout, very scary to lead
Südwand

Another honeycombed face protected with hourglasses
Knirpelwand Direkte

A good route photo; the long crack on the left tower is Südwand, and the black pocketed area is Knirpelwand Direkte

Our apartment in Hohnstein, just 100 yards from the town square…ideally located

The midieval town of Hohnstein

The main square of Hohnstein; Bernd Arnold's sports shop is on the right

Dinner in the basement of the town hall; pretty good food, but not as good as in Velden

Standing in front of the Bergsport Arnold store in Hohnstein

The castle and bridge for tourists

Leaning back on jugs near the top of the route
Türkischer Honig

Runout to the first bolt, then more reasonable and juggy
Türkischer Honig

The amazing Höllenhund wall; we climbed a route on the far right side where the rock is even more featured

High on the wall at a hanging belay
Talweg

Feeling stoked after leading the first pitch
Talweg

At the second belay…cold as hell
Talweg

Removing a thread on the third pitch
Talweg

On the third pitch
Talweg

On the third pitch
Talweg

The 4th and final pitch involved leaning across to the next tower, then climbing the face
Talweg

Traverse just before the topout
Talweg

Working on some pro -- a threaded runner
Talweg

Looking down from the first belay at the super featured rock and intricate protection
Talweg

Starting up the overhanging wall -- a real head game
Talweg

Looking up at the second pitch -- many tied off threads
Talweg

Roping up below the 300'-high overhanging wall with…you guessed it…knots
Talweg

Looking down at Rayko at the first belay
Talweg

Looking down at Rayko at the first belay
Talweg

Rayko is on top of the main wall, on an isolated island summit
Talweg

In a sea of towers
Talweg

Following the first pitch, removing a thread
Talweg

Super featured rock on the first pitch
Talweg

Following the second pitch
Talweg

Nice slung flake, but it feels like it might rip off
Talweg

Following the first pitch on yet another pigging cold day
Herkules Rippe

Approaching the belay
Herkules Rippe

Threaded hourglasses work better if you equalize the load by feeding the knot into the constriction
Herkules Rippe

Rayko at the first pitch belay
Herkules Rippe

Rayko far below at the P1 belay
Herkules Rippe

The river Elbe with many exposed bits of rock

More knot climbing
Direkte Südwestwand auch

We climbed on the smooth wall on the left, where everything was hard 5.10

Following the first pitch, leaning way back on a flake
Südhangel

Rayko laybacks around a flake at the top of the pitch
Südwestwand

Belaying at the top of the Lokomotive; notice the ring and "towel rack" bar to prevent the rope from creating deep grooves in the rock
Südwestverschneidung

Writing my entry in the route book
Südwestverschneidung

This crag is supposed to resemble a locomotive. It's actually a relatively thin grouping of towers on top of a high ridge

The Locomotive crag seen from the top of Honigstein

Rayko looking for his name in the route book

The initial moves, protected by a small jammed knot
Dampflok

Mess of towers as seen from the summit of the Locomotive

Tied-off flakes and hourglasses serve as the anchor at the top of the first pitch
Talweg

Making the crux moves at the start of the route -- an overhanging offwidth crack protected by jammed knots, the first knots I placed in Elbsandstein
Talweg

A small jammed knot on the second pitch
Talweg

Second pitch squeeze chimney
Talweg

Rappelling the backside of the tower down to the grass; the terrain is comfortably navigated with bare feet because of the sand

An overhanging handcrack; the crux was the slopey, sandy moves after the crack
Morgengebet

Farm country as seen from the top of Pabst

Farm country as seen from the top of Pabst

Approaching the crag from town; our first route in Elbsandstein was the crack on the right side of the third tower (from the left)

Looking over the town below the crag

Browsing the route book
Ostkante

Huge jugs at the top of the route
Ostkante

Belaying from a giant hole in the top of the tower
Ostkante

Leaving one tower and climbing the next one over, in search of a rappel line

More rappelling from rings; nice redundancy

Eldorado Canyon (map)

Lucie and "The Greeks" pose for the camera

Climbing the beautiful corner of Darkness
Darkness 'Til Dawn

The corner of Darkness 'Til Dawn; actually takes wide gear in the face on the right
Darkness 'Til Dawn

Climbing the overhanging hand crack at the start of The Grand Course
The Grand Course

Sequence of pictures showing climbing through the crux of Blind Faith
Blind Faith

Climbing though an awkward bulge below the crux crack
Blind Faith

Placing gear into the crux crack
Blind Faith

Jamming through the final steep crack
Blind Faith

The Bastille; climbers can be seen on Bastille Crack

Fisher Towers (map)

A view of Cottontail with the Titan looming behind

King Fisher as seen from the hiking trail

The Titan as seen from the hiking trail

View of Ancient Art; the Stolen Chimney (Corkscrew Summit) route ascends the funky-shaped corkscrew in the center of the photo

The Ancient Art formation with an approaching storm in the background

Ancient Art and it's various summits; the corkscrew summit (aka "Stolen Chimney") is the leftmost summit

The corkscrew summit as seen from the top of the belay on the other side of the "sidewalk"
Stolen Chimney

Colin sits at the sidewalk, as seen from the top of the corkscrew
Stolen Chimney

Following the pebbled face on the first pitch; the climbing is a little bouldery, and the protection is all drilled angle pitons
Stolen Chimney

Leading the corkscrew -- one of the wildest summits anywhere. The ropes are arched to the right due to strong winds
Stolen Chimney

The second pitch (5.8); looks like mud, but is actually pretty nice rock with decent protection every 8 to 10 feet
Stolen Chimney

Posing on the summit of the corkscrew
Stolen Chimney

Pitons on the "sidewalk" belay; the rock around the drilled pitons has eroded
Stolen Chimney

Two other summits of the Ancient Art formation with the King Fisher in the background as taken from the summit the corkscrew
Stolen Chimney

A topo showing the Stolen Chimney route on Ancient Art
Stolen Chimney

Franconia Notch (map)

Jim on the Whitney-Gilman in 1986
Whitney-Gilman

Tracy on the Whitney-Gilman in 1986
Whitney-Gilman

The Black Dike in early season
Black Dike

Bones follows the last pitch of Moby Grape; this finish climbs corners left of the standard finish
Moby Grape

Jim, just after the rock traverse on the Black Dike
Black Dike

Pulling the monster roof on the 5th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Climbing the slab below the overlap on the 5th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Nabbing the jug in the roof on the 5th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Approaching the overlap on the 5th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Bones at the crux of the first pitch; from here, the route continues [climber's] left on an unprotected 5.8 face
Bennedictus Direct

Bones runs it out on the thin 5.9 traverse on the 4th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

At the end of the traverse on the 4th pitch, a couple of really hard moves (5.11c) take Bones to overlap. This pitch is a variation to the original route that avoids the 5.11d A3 section.
Bennedictus Direct

Jen and Brian get organized to film climbing on the third pitch of Bennedictus
Bennedictus Direct

Jen jugs the first pitch of Bennedictus to set up for filming the higher pitches
Bennedictus Direct

Jen filming the 3rd pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Jen at the 4th belay on Bennedictus
Bennedictus Direct

Closeup of a bolt on Cannon

Panning back, you can see the bolt is in a piece of talus, having fallen from somewhere on Cannon

At the belay at the start of the 4th pitch, scoping out the pitch ahead
Bennedictus Direct

Following the 4th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Taking a photo as Will leads the 4th pitch
Bennedictus Direct

Frankenjura (Germany) (map)

The formation with Action Direct. The actual route climbs the underbelly of the rear buttress.

Super cool crag rising above a small village

Super cool crag rising above a small village

Super cool crag rising above a small village

Standard lowering hardware in the Frankenjura, which isn't the easiest thing to climb in moments of desperation

Kurt Albert started the whole red dot thing, which later became the "redpoint"

The small town of Hartenstein with several crags nearby

On the way out of town to the crag

An open but amazingly dark forest with a pretty good crag. Rayko runs it out to the first bolt.
Igor

Rayko gains big holds after a pumpy traverse. Notice the route book midway across the traverse.
Bergzigeunerweg

Small villiage of Lungsdorf, which is nothing more than a bend in the road. We did climb a pretty cool tower just above town.

Signing the route book at the top of the tower
Trebbla

Starting up the tower above Lungsdorf
Trebbla

In the rain, we lucked upon this severely overhanging amphitheater with several dry routes
Schwarzer Riss

A beautiful crack climb reminiscent of the Dolomites
Westriss

Hiding from the rain in a cave at the base of the Napoleon tower

This free-standing tower, to our surprise, was about 10" thick
Südwestwand

Rayko straddling the top of the tower
Südwestwand

Our first climbing stop in Frankenjura

Random climber seconding a pretty cool line
Luftige Wand

Pretty cool climbing down low, but an unprotected chimney up high
Büberriss

Lowering off a super steep climb at the end of the day
Sauwetter

Amazed by this formation, we vowed to return, only to discover that all the routes are hard

Our little apartment in Velden, a 5-minute walk from the main square

Best food in Bavaria, or so we thought

Standard dinnertime activities -- email, route research, and taking notes from the days outing

Buying strawberries and other vegies

Purchasing the daily supply of lunch meat

View from the top of the cliff; the approach follows the dirt road

It rained, so everybody headed for the overhanging roadside crag

Super steep roadside climbing, mostly Czech climbers

A difficult and long route with several cruxes. Too bad it's out of focus.
Corazon

Frenchman Coulee (map)

Ade running it out up easy ground on Strokin' the Chicken
Strokin' The Chicken

Ade clipping bolts on Jesus Saves
Jesus Saves

Fruita (map)

Fanni rides the lower section of Zippy Da Do Da

Descending a section of the classic Joe's Ridge

Another section of the classic Joe's Ridge

Nikos climbs from the road on the lower section of Zippy Da Do Da

Nikos climbs another hill on the lower section of Zippy Da Do Da

The Touareg with the swing-arm hitch-mounted bike carrier -- very cool bike carrier

God's Crag (map)

Aspens on the approach

Walking back to the car in the rain

Abandoned mine on the road to Engineer's Pass

Somebody got all Hayduke on this dam

Approaching the mine shaft; no, we didn't go in it, especiallty after The Descent

Two-tiered waterfall with a spooky mine shaft at the base

Approaching God's Crag

Plaque at the base of The Renaissance Man below the waterfall

The crag, as seen from the road

Descending in the rain through a grove of aspens; we picked up a hundred ticks here

Crux moves at the top of the pitch
Fear is Never Boring

Styling the second pitch, in the rain
Fear is Never Boring

Cool face climbing on the first pitch
Fear is Never Boring

Self portrait, belaying in the rain
Fear is Never Boring

Following the beautiful face on P1
Fear is Never Boring

Nearing the top of the pitch
Fear is Never Boring

Golden, Colorado (map)

Two themes of our climbing trip to Colorado -- Hemp, and "Just put it off"

An early morning with "The Greeks"

Nikos, Fanni, and Tom standing on driveway discussing routes

The morning after the big bash…everyone is drinking water to treat the hangover

Granite Mountain (map)

Nearing the top of P2
Falling Ross

Delicate moves onto the slippery slab at the top of P2
Falling Ross

Great Falls (map)

Potomac River

Tad on the Lost Arrow, not really solo
Lost Arrow

Jim on PVO, TRing something way to hard
P.V.O. (Potomac Valley Overhang)

Hema following an awesome layback flake of Great Beginnings
Great Beginnings

Great Sand Dunes (map)

Big jump with plume of sand

Colin's thigh sprouts people

Totally airborn

View of the mountains as seen from the highest dune

Dunes as seen from the river crossing

Guangzhou (China) (map)

Eric's bathroom

Brainless goats in the meat market

View from the ferry up the Pearl River

Street life in Guangzhou

Jim on ferry going up the Pearl River

Lion dancer in the streets of Guangzhou

Backwards instructions

Vegetables in the street market

Hawaii (map)

Boogie boarding in the surf, somewhere on the north shore

Lucie shows how it's done

Lucie models the boogie board

Hellgate Gulch (map)

Tommy sending at Hellgate
Uncomfortably Numb

Aimless wandering through the compact canyon, trying to identify things

Colin leads up the awesome wall
Weird Science

Colin leads up the awesome wall
Weird Science

Colin leads up the awesome wall
Weird Science

Colin leads up the awesome wall
Weird Science

Colin leads up the awesome wall
Weird Science

Not much difference between the 11s and the 9s on this wall
Melt Down

Not much difference between the 11s and the 9s on this wall
Melt Down

Tommy sending at Hellgate
Uncomfortably Numb

Hong Kong (China) (map)

Downtown Hong Kong

Hong Kong Island from the ferry

Danger sign…don't climb here!

View of Kowloon from Lion Rock

Eric at the belay on Catastrophe
The Arete

Jim at the belay on Catastrophe
The Arete

View of Lion Rock from the approach trail

Eric following the first pitch of Catastrophe
The Arete

Jim at the belay on Catastrophe
The Arete

Lion Rock from the approach trail

Hyalite (map)

Climbing the thin column on Omega; the ice was running with water
Omega

The main fork of Hyalite Canyon; Winter Dance is the spear of ice on the rock face centered in the photo

Hyalite Canyon as seen from the first pitch of Cleopatra's Needle

View from the second pitch of Cleopatra's Needle; you can see Joe on Twin Falls Left, belayed by Ellen in the trees below
Twin Falls Left

Taking a rest on the approach to Cleopatra's Needle and Twin Falls

Reaching for a screw on the second pitch (WI5)
Cleopatra's Needle

Tommy stays dry by climbing the right side of the pillar
Cleopatra's Needle

Independence Pass (map)

Monitor Rock looks like a choss pile, but it's sooo much better than it looks

Tommy struggles with the first crux on Rad Lad
Rad Lad

Climbing the beautiful compact rock on Squid Kid
Squid Kid

Face climbing on the Maze, a long bolted line on Monitor Rock
The Maze

Tom and Mioara huddled at the second belay on The Mother Load
The Mother Load

Tom leads the final pitch
The Mother Load

Want some beans?

Indian Creek (map)

A view of Indian Creek from Optimator Wall; the wall centered in the photo is Reservior Wall, and the 4x4 Wall is on the right

Another pretty view of Indian Creek as seen from the base of the Bridger Jack Mesa

Yet another pretty view of Indian Creek as seen from the Bridger Jack Camping Area

A yellow-headed (or "eastern") collared lizard

Closeup of a yellow-headed (or "eastern") collared lizard

A typical Indian Creek rack featuring lots of same-sized cams

Labeled Indian Creek rack

Enjoying a mini-bottle of single malt at camp

Self-portrait at the Bridger Jack Camping Area

Chris sends Swedin-Ringle, making it look like 5.10
Sweden-Ringle

Chris sends Swedin-Ringle, making it look like 5.10
Sweden-Ringle

Chris sends Swedin-Ringle, making it look like 5.10
Sweden-Ringle

Near the top of the crack Colin finally gets a rest by stemming to the opposite wall
Cave Route

Another endless layback crack at Battle of the Bulge
Three Strikes and You're Out

Brian approaches the top of Easter Island
Thunderbolts

Closeup of Brian approaching the top of Easter Island
Keyhole Flakes

The Bridger Jack Mesa with all the towers labeled

The Bridger Jack Mesa in the early morning

The Bridger Jack Mesa in the early morning

Sitting on top of Easter Island after climbing Thunderbolts
Thunderbolts

Climbing the first pitch (5.8) involves fun jamming, followed by an unlikely traverse right around the nose above
Thunderbolts

The Bridger Jacks as seen from the west

Organizing the rack for the days climbing

Colin poses for the camera on the 4th pitch (5.11a) of Rimshot; he is positioned at the first rest after the tight sandy-hands crack above the belay
Rimshot

More off-width climbing on the 4th pitch
Rimshot

Exiting the chimney at the top of the second pitch; from his position, the climb moves left (climber's right) onto lower-angled slabs up to the belay
Rimshot

The third pitch traverses left in a chimney to an off-width crack in the main face
Rimshot

Getting established in the off-width crack above the chimney on the third pitch
Rimshot

Hanging out at the base of Easter Island

Jim's shadow on Sunflower Tower as he raps from Easter Island
Thunderbolts

John tops out on Thunderbolts, a rare face climb at the Creek
Thunderbolts

A topo showing Rimshot
Rimshot

Starting out on Generic Crack; the crux of the route are the two pods just above
Generic Crack

About halfway up the crack
Generic Crack

Closeup of Jim about halfway up the crack
Generic Crack

Still about halfway up the crack
Generic Crack

Nearing the anchors at 140'
Generic Crack

Dave peeks around the corner before heading out onto the left-slanting crack on Lady Pillar
Lady Pillar

This awesome zig-zag crack goes through all sizes, taking two each from yellow Camalot to yellow Alien; this section is fairly easy since the crack is hand sized
Anunnaki

At this point, the crack narrows to off-hands and rattley fingers
Anunnaki

Moving through the crux involves weird layaways, finger stacks, and powerful pulls
Anunnaki

Laybacking up the steep finger crack on Skidmarks
Skidmarks

Jamming the final crack high in the Sabbatical corner, belayed by Brian
Sabbatical

This nice finger crack was easier for me since my large knuckles cammed well in the crack
Working Man

John at the second belay on the South Face
South Face

On the summit of the South Six Shooter
South Face

John poses on the summit
South Face

Lucie walks the mesa above the valley floor; this area is very pristine, quiet, and beautiful

Some rough 4X4 driving on Davis Canyon Road leads into the South Six Shooter valley

The South Six Shooter as seen from the upper mesa

The Touareg parked in the wash at the start of the hike to the South Six Shooter; the Bridger Jacks can be seen on the skyline centered

Brian reaches left at the crux, belayed by Mioara
Keyhole Flakes

Brian high on the route just below the anchors
Keyhole Flakes

Moving through the bottom finger-sized section of the route
Bad Rad Duality Crack

Moving through the bottom finger-sized section of the route; the crack widens to tight hands, then offwidth, then back to tight hands through the double-tiered roofs above
Bad Rad Duality Crack

Jim climbs The Incredible Hand Crack, belayed by Brian; most people find this climb a pleasure, but my large large hands didn't fit the crack and made the crux overhanging section very strenuous
The Incredible Hand Crack

What a beast this was -- a 7" off-width section, then a blind reach rightwards into a good finger crack
Unnamed #18

After placing a nut (the only nut I placed that trip), I finally got established in the finger crack
Unnamed #18

Closeup of Jim after placing the nut
Unnamed #18

Higher in the finger crack
Unnamed #18

Mioara follows Supercrack, one of the more well-known climbs at Indian Creek
Supercrack

Closeup of Mioara following Supercrack
Supercrack

Laybacking the rattly finger start of Coyne Crack
Coyne Crack

Higher up, the crack turns to tight hands
Coyne Crack

Posing in front of the "Brick" at the Supercrack Buttress parking lot

Inman Gulf (map)

Traversing to the belay on a new route
It's In, Man

Route possibilities at Inman Gulf; the climb "It's In, Man" is centered in the photo

At the belay on the first ascent
It's In, Man

Jim climbs poorly bonded ice on the first ascent
It's In, Man

Leading the first ascent of a flow across from Rainbow Falls
Over The Rainbow

Ithaca (map)

High on the pillar the ice is fractured and thin, with water visible through the ice veil
Estes Point Pillar

Jim belays Leslie on the steep section of the pillar
Estes Point Pillar

The climb as seen from the streambed
Estes Point Pillar

Jamesville (map)

Summit headquarters

Joshua Tree (map)

Allen begins a lead
Unknown

John organizes the rack on an early visit to Joshua Tree

Flowering joshua tree

Steep ground in the Bighorn Mating Grotto
Dangling Woo Li Master

Taped up hands after a day of climbing in the Bighorn Mating Grotto; notice the Disney band-aid on the middle finger

Steck's favorite route
Pinched Rib

Kimbrough in the early morning

High on the runout plates of Disneyland Dome
Enchanted Stairway

Lori approaches the first belay; the ledge is actually a dike that, if continued, turns into Mental Bankruptcy
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride

Phil places gear at the intimidating roof near the start of the climb
Hang Ten

Clipping the gear at the roof; hard to believe it's only 5.8
Hang Ten

This interesting route starts with a hard boulder problem, then traverses just left 5 bolts about 10' above the ground, then finishing straight up to some chains
Eileen Dover

A little further along in the traverse; lots for the hands, but little for the feet
Eileen Dover

The opening, unprotected moves of Effigy Too
Effigy Too

Effigy Too is a nice route for sunny days as it's in the shade. The huge boulder high and left is the EBGBs boulder.
Effigy Too

The climbing eases near the top of the route
Effigy Too

Eric belaying at the top, construction in the background
Sitting Here in Limbo

Lucie, Allen, and Joe (and his dog)

John leads yet another bolt-protected face climb
Casual

Strenuous underclings are required right off the ground on a fragile flake
Diamond Dogs

Unprotected knob climbing at the start of yet another Swain route
Pullups To Pasadena

Todd demonstrates a pretty lizard

Andrew watches the action on Garden Angel
Garden Angel

Weird layback moves up the arete of Garden Angel
Garden Angel

Weird layback moves up the arete of Garden Angel
Garden Angel

Matt makes the opening moves on Lazy Day
Lazy Day

Allen leading Cryptic
Cryptic

Allen leading Cryptic
Cryptic

Allen leading Cryptic
Cryptic

Yvon at the opening moves on the Headstone
Southwest Corner

Yvon high up on the Southwest Corner
Southwest Corner

John leads a too-short crack on the backside of the Headstone
Practice Crack #1

Lori and Jim pose on top of the Headstone

Working through the crux of the Southwest Corner, a spectacular easy route on the Headstone
Southwest Corner

Painting of the "snail"

Joe following the first pitch of Poodles
Poodles are People Too

Tall people can simply reach left and bypass any difficulty; not sure what short people do
Head Over Heels

Yvon nearing the top of Hidden Tower
Wild Wind

Thin face moves characterize climbing on this route
Dazed and Confused

Runout climbing in a sea of granite
Dazed and Confused

Lori reaches the top after a long, rope-stretching 2nd pitch
Bird on a Wire

Lori and Jim pose on top of the Manure Pile at dusk

Allen at the crux of Left Mel Crack
Left Mel Crack

Checking out the pencil cactus

Climbing the height-related crux of the Left Mel Crack
Left Mel Crack

At the second bolt, high on the Pea Brain
Joan Jetson

Allen laces up for the Peyote cracks

Having lunch near Hound Rock

Coyote near the road; if you look carefully, you can see a second coyote in the background

Pulling the final difficulties on Illusion Dweller
Illusion Dweller

Long reaches on overhanging rock constitute the crux of Clean and Jerk
Clean and Jerk

One of the best hand/fist cracks in the park
Clean and Jerk

John belays a climber on Ball Bearing
Ball Bearing

Beverly describes her experience on Illusion Dweller to the others

Opening moves -- despite the rating of 5.10c, the initial moves are 5.11a
O'Kelley's Crack

Simon, waiting for his morning coffee

The gang, gathered in Joshua Tree

The whole gang

Hanging out at Ryan Campground

Joshua Tree in the early morning light

Hanging out at the campfire in Ryan

Lucie avoids the wind by sitting in a rock alcove

Lucie on her way to painting at the end of the day

Joshua Tree near Ryan Campground

Allen gets organized around camp

Late afternoon relaxation at camp

Deep contemplation

Beverly warms around her morning coffee

Breakfast at the Jones'

Breakfast at Ryan

Maguy enjoys her morning coffee

John enjoying the conviviality at camp

Low on the all time perfect crack
Illusion Dweller

Lost in a sea of rock
Illusion Dweller

Eric and Lucie lounging at the belay at sunset
Walk on the Wild Side

The route Junk Food traverses the Junk Clump formation on a quartz dike; it begins with two bolts, then crosses three other routes
Junk Food

A route on the Shorter Wall, the right-hand side of the Rock Garden Valley
Born in a Barn

Martin shredding his fingers on Solid Gold
Solid Gold

Following up the sharp edges of Solid Gold; this climb is quite the finger shredder
Solid Gold

Simon leading the lower section of Solid Gold
Solid Gold

Jim and Allen on Rubicon
Rubicon

Beverly racks up for Sphincter Quits

Beverly sews up the lower crack, then moves up to the rest alcove
Sphincter Quits

Beverly moves up to the first bolt
Trembling Toes

The crux is the section just before the roof on the left where the crack is tight hands
No Self Confidence

Steep, sustained crack climbing in the midsection of the route
No Self Confidence

Feeling pumped, this is the last rest before running it out to the top
No Self Confidence

At dusk on the Memorial Route
Allen Steck Memorial Route

Following the all-time classic hand crack
Double Cross

Leading the initial stemming corner of Orphan; if you can stomach the off-width at the top, this is an excellent climb
Orphan

Tad climbing the "burnt penis"
Boogers On A Lampshade

Tad climbing the "burnt penis"
Boogers On A Lampshade

Making the crux moves on Boogers; the high bolt protects this section
Boogers on a Lampshade

After the crux; the next piece is the tied off chicken head visible just above
Boogers on a Lampshade

Pretty rocks

Tad and Chris in the Wonderland with the Astro Domes in the background

Chris near Disneyland Dome in the Wonderland

Cool rocks in the Wonderland

Lunch break on the ledge system in front of the Astro Domes

Lucie walking through the Wonderland

In the midst of the crux at Sheepbugger's Wall; the difficulty here is that the protection is at your feet while making the crux .11 moves…below that is a ledge!
Drop Zone

Allen resting in the Wonderland

About to make the crux moves on the first pitch
Figures on a Landscape

John traverses across to the first belay
Figures on a Landscape

Pack adjustments on the way into the Wonderland

Lori hiking around the Wonderland

Joe gears up for "Mr Toad's"
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride

Tom sends Solid Gold
Solid Gold

Kama Bay (Canada) (map)

The climb Icebreaker as seen from the top of Whimpsickle; the body of water in the background is Kama Bay on Lake Superior
Icebreakers

Climbing Icebreakers Arete in early season
Icebreakers Arete

The crux of Icebreakers Arete involved climbing an overhanging cauliflower of ice
Icebreakers Arete

Tommy climbs poor ice at bottom third of Whimpsickle; this climb is anything but whimpy, as we found it to be one of the harder routes we climbed
Whimpsickle

Kandersteg (Switzerland) (map)

Looking across the valley to ski resort on the sunny side

The little town of Kandersteg surrounded by high mountains

The little town of Kandersteg surrounded by high mountains

The ice flows above Kandersteg - amazing amount and variety

At the base of the fragile pillar
Bäretritt

We climbed the rock on the left to avoid breaking the fragile pillar
Bäretritt

High on the route, pumped, and looking for a belay
Bäretritt

Traversing left at the start of P2
Arbonium

Approaching the ice climbs above Kandersteg. The free-standing pillar above him is Rattenpissoir.

Belaying on top of P1
Arbonium

Following the steep pillars of P2
Arbonium

Swinging a tool on the final steep pitch
Arbonium

Climber works up the amazing free-standing pillar
Rattenpissoir

We climbed the first section of this "beginner" route
Namenlos

La Cabrera (Spain) (map)

At dinner after climbing at La Cabrera, Lucie and Jen examine Pedro's flying book

Carlos climbs a difficult thin crack
Unknown

Carlos and Monolo discuss route options at the first belay
Esteban Altieri

Jim and Belen pack for the hike back to the car after a full day climbing

The crag as seen from the parking area just before sunset

Unknown climber finishes the third pitch (6b)
José María Alaiz

La Pedriza (Spain) (map)

Belen belaying in a mess of ropes at the top of the top of the second pitch (V+)
Guirles-Campos

Belen runs it out up the third and fourth pitches (V, V+)
Guirles-Campos

Belen belays at the top of the 4th pitch
Guirles-Campos

Goats scamper around the cliff

Jesús approaches the belay leading the second pitch (V+)
Guirles-Campos

This route demanded thin laybacking, high-angle friction, and tiny crimping and was the most difficult route I climbed at La Pedriza
Vía del Gesto

Pedro packing gear for the hike out with El Yelmo in the background

Pedro climbs the crack in the middle of the first pitch (6a)
Caballo Blanco

Pedro pulls the roof near the end of the first pitch (6a)
Caballo Blanco

El Yelmo at sunset; this south face has in excess of 50 multi-pitch routes

El Yelmo showing the routes we climbed

Laguna (Philippines) (map)

Eric and Martin pose for the camera

Lake Willoughby (map)

Leading the fragile third pitch of the Gentleman
The Last Gentleman

Ade at the belay after the traverse from The Promenade
The Last Gentleman

Plug and Chug, Mindbender, and Renormalization
Mindbender

French climbers at the first belay on the Gentleman
The Last Gentleman

Close-up of climber leading the second pitch of the Gentleman in fat conditions
The Last Gentleman

Climber leading the second pitch of the Gentleman in fat conditions
The Last Gentleman

Will high on the final column of Mindbender
Mindbender

Ice cliffs of Mt. Pisgah

Boney Boy

Will starting the second pitch out of the cave
Mindbender

Will leading the crux columns of The Promenade
The Promenade

Will dry-tooling the first 200' of Glass Menagerie in [obviously] thin conditions (WI5, M6)
Glass Menagerie

Jim and Will gearing up at the base
Glass Menagerie

Jim leading the initial sections of Mindbender
Mindbender

Jim nearing the cave at the top of the first pitch of The Promenade
The Promenade

Reign of Terror as seen from The Promenade
Reign of Terror

The route Bullwinkle climbs the steep, fractured columns that hang down the overhanging rock face
Bullwinkle

One of the best ice routes in the East, Called on Account of Rains rarely forms to the ground; this photo shows the route in WI5 condition
Called on Account of Rains

Tom and Simeon at the cave belay on top of the first pitch
Called on Account of Rains

Leading the thin ice on the first pitch of Called; the route steepens just above, then stretches the rope to the cave visible beneath a hanging pillar on the right
Called on Account of Rains

The crux of the route climbs is the steeper section of ice just below the cave belay
Called on Account of Rains

The amphitheatre containing the Last Gentleman, Promenade, and Who's Who; there are two parties on the Gentleman and a part of three on the Promenade

A party of three climbs the first pitch of Promenade
The Promenade

Simeon starts the second pitch
Called on Account of Rains

Tommy takes the right-hand line of ice on the top pitch
Called on Account of Rains

Tommy takes the right-hand line of ice on the top pitch
Called on Account of Rains

A climber leads the first pitch of Who's Who in delaminated conditions
Who's Who in Outer Space

Laurel Knob (map)

Big Green Mountain, which can be seen on the approach to Laurel Knob

The "offset washer", which is essentially a rivot with a couple washers on it, were used as protection on some early Laurel Knob routes

Following P4 of Fathom, 5.9
Fathom

Following P6 of Fathom, the crux pitch
Fathom

Following P6 of Fathom, the crux pitch
Fathom

Sign where you leave national forest land

Rappelling a water groove

Rappelling a water groove

Rappelling a water groove

Following P4 of Fathom, 5.9

Leavenworth (map)

Toproping back when it was cool to do so (5.11d)
Doin' The Dishes

Ade follows the crux pitch, a spectacular bolt-protected face
Heart Of Gold

Kristy enjoying the perfect 5.9 flake on the third pitch
Orbit

Kristy at the belay below the knobby-faced top pitches
Orbit

Climbing an arete in Icicle Creek Canyon
Don't Forget Arete

Lima (Peru) (map)

Chickens and chicken bits at the market in Lima

A protest in one of the squares in downtown Lima

Little Cottenwood Canyon (map)

Low down on Coffin Crack
Coffin Crack

Little Falls (map)

Kind of a crappy picture, but shows my early climbing days -- wool knickers, Fires, and a hammer
Unknown

Bouldering on Moss Island
Green Traverse

Looking Glass (map)

Rappelling an eyebrow-covered face after completing Dingus Dog
Dingus Dog

Two climbers at the P1 belay
Rat's Ass

An unprotected start leads to a greasy flared crack
First Return

Lost Horse Canyon (map)

Chilling out at Observation Point

Our camp at Observation Point; it snowed…again

Colin follows Chew Time at the left end of the wall
Chew Time

Colin follows Chew Time at the left end of the wall
Chew Time

Standing below Chew Time
Chew Time

Store front of Conover's Trading Post in Wisdom, on the drive to Lost Horse

Lumpy Ridge (map)

Tailgate party after a day of climbing

Lumpy Ridge, as seen from the hiking trail

Hiking into Lumpy for the day

Moving up the .10a finger crack to the crux roof on the second pitch; the roof is climbed at the crack just above the helmet
Fat City

Relaxing after climbing Fat City/Cheap Date; note the "Texas-sized" rack (Easterners!)

Simon leading the first pitch (5.8); Will belaying
Fat City

Leading the awesome finger crack of Cheap Date; this route makes a great alternative finish to Fat City
Cheap Date

Bones rippling muscles on Cheap Date
Cheap Date

Jamming is the way forward
Cheap Date

Bones appearing from under the crux roof on Fat City
Fat City

Bones hanging back to check out the action on the cliff

Jim at the base of the Bookmark

Sequence of pictures showing climbing the flaring off-width
Inside Straight

Stuffing gear high into the off-width
Inside Straight

Laybacking the outer edge seems to be the way forward, although it's waaay pumpy
Inside Straight

Disappearing into the off-width; this is actually climbed on the outside, but it's hard to make the transition
Inside Straight

Climbing the crux bulge on the second pitch; the difficulty of this pitch is in placing gear, as it's thin and technical
Romulan Territory

Manila (Philippines) (map)

Squatters encroach the river near Manila

Masai Mara (Kenya) (map)

Large male lion, somewhat covered in flies

Grasshopper

Our tent at Kicheche, perhaps the most comfortable place we stayed in Africa

Breakfast during the first morning of our safari

Male elephant and approaching storm

Breakfast at Kicheche; very civilized

Wildebeest

Warthog

Two ostrich

Some bird, which type I've forgotten

Some bird, which type I've forgotten

Some bird, which type I've forgotten

Some bird, which type I've forgotten

Giraffe

Giraffe and baby

Resting thompson gazelle

Resting leopard

Baby elephant

Topi

Lion

Clouds moving over the mara

Bat eared fox

Jackal

Sparring wildebeests

Hyena

Hyena

Jackal

Waterbuck

Two zebra

Zebra

Zebra

Zebra

A troop of baboons

Tawny eagle on log

Lions feasting on a topi

Lions feasting on a topi

Lions feasting on a topi

Lions feasting on a topi

Lions feasting on a topi

Lions feasting on a topi

Lion

Lion

Two lions

Two hippos in the water

Mike prepares breakfast out on the mara

Breakfast on safari

Portrait of Mike, our guide

Some bird, which type I've forgotten

Two impala sparring

Two impala sparring

White rhino

Two white rhinos

Two white rhinos

White rhino mouth

White rhino head

Lions feasting in a cloud of flies

Lion with a full stomach

Male lion

Male lion

Two vultures

Some bird, which type I've forgotten

Tawny eagle perched on branch

Wildebeest with birds

Baboon in tree

Eland

Eland

Two vultures

Lucie in safari vehicle going into the river

Running giraffes

Giraffe with drool

Approaching storm on the mara

Jackal with the hind quarters of a dik dik

a herd of elands

Ostrich

Resting giraffe

Some bird, which type I've forgotten

Two crown cranes

Two crown cranes

Hyena

Secretary bird

Secretary bird with nest material

Secretary bird in flight

Secretary bird landing in nest

Resting buffalo

Leopard in tree

Leopard in tree

Leopard in tree

Leopard in tree

Leopard in tree

Dik dik

Lion licking

Lion

Lion

Some bird, which type I've forgotten

Lion

Lion

Some bird, which type I've forgotten

Giraffe and two zebra

Giraffe and baby giraffe

Two waterbucks

Sparring zebras

Impala

Nursing elephant

Nursing elephant

Elephant

Two elephants

Mother and baby elephants

Elephant

Elephant

Elephant

Male elephant

Drinking elephant

Elephant with grass

Elephant with grass

Elephant

Baby protected by two larger elephants

Tourists with big-ass cameras

Jumping vervet monkey

Meadow River Gorge (map)

Jeremy at the crux of the .11a on the left side of the wall
Cross-Eyed and Blind

Big moves on steep jugs
Cross-Eyed and Blind

Big moves on steep jugs
Cross-Eyed and Blind

Meteora (Greece) (map)

The gang hanging around the campground in Kastraki

Towers of the Meteora

Evening sun over the towers of the Meteora

Nikos preparing to lead the first pitch
Duett

Nikos following the crux of Duett
Duett

Nikos rapping off the top
Es geht auch ohne!

Jim and Nikos on the last route before leaving the beautiful Meteora
Es geht auch ohne!

Aris at the belay on Corner of Madness
Corner of Madness

Aris high on the Pillar of Dreams (about 6 pitches up)
Pillar of Dreams

Corner of Madness as seen on the approach
Corner of Madness

Aris nears the top of the second pitch
Corner of Madness

Ares reads the summit register on top of Heilger Geist
Pillar of Dreams

An anchor consists of 1/2" eye bolts
Pillar of Dreams

Looking down from the second belay -- a sea of knobs and pebbles
Pillar of Dreams

The town of Kastraki

The town of Kastraki with the distinctive Meteora towers in the background

Aris and Fondas at a belay on Hypotenuse
Hypotenuse

Manos leading the second pitch
Line of the Fallen Drop

Returning from a day at the crag

Close-up of Aris and Fondas at a belay on Hypotenuse
Hypotenuse

Aris and Fondas at a belay on Hypotenuse
Hypotenuse

Jim attempting a harder route (VIII+)
Fingertip and Sky

Jim leading on large knobs (notice the tied off knob)
Line of the Fallen Drop

Manos at the belay amidst a sea of pebbles
Line of the Fallen Drop

Close-up of Manos rappelling amidst a sea of pebbles
Line of the Fallen Drop

Manos rappelling amidst a sea of pebbles
Line of the Fallen Drop

Milan (Italy) (map)

Ade gawking at the models in Italy

Tour gang in Milan

Moab (map)

The slickrock above Kane Creek and a hidden arch and the Colorado River in the background; we ascended a steel cable on the ramp just beyond the arch

Looking north towards the La Sal mountains from the slickrock above Kane Creek

Broken rock and interesting sidepulls make this route surprisingly fun
Pinhead

The slickrock above Moab

Colin raps the first pitch; we bailed due to loose rock, rain, and general whimpiness
Stairway to Heaven

Roadside climbing on Potash Road…not the most aesthetic climbing area
Pinhead

Message from the locals

Dolomite Tower (the squarish spire on the left) and Lighthouse Tower (the pointy spire just to the right) as seen from River Road

Mt. Kenya (Kenya) (map)

A bicycle repair shop on the way to Chagoria

Photographing children while our truck waits to be repaired [again]

Feuling up for the journey to Chagoria

A bicycle repair shop on the way to Chagoria

Repairing the truck tire [again]

Killing time at Top Hut, the building next to the Austrian Hut

Enjoying the sunset, if not for the altitude sickness

Soaking in the warm sun in front of Nelion

Our camp near the Austrian Hut

Our camp near the Austrian Hut

Nelion as seen from Point Lenana

Waking up to the sun at our camp near the Austrian Hut

Feeling full after eating

Stormy weather moves in after setting up camp near the Austrian Hut

Reviewing route beta

Chris' tent near the Austrian Hut

Ravenous after our successful ascent of Nelion (4 hours)

Looking tired after our climb

Yummy food at the Austrian Hut

The summit of Nelion

Sunset at the Austrian Hut

Sunset at the Austrian Hut

Sunset at the Austrian Hut

Lucie comes out to celebrate when we return from the summit

Group shot in front of Nelion

Soloing the "easy slab" (more like 5.5 in places) to the notch
Southwest Ridge

View from the southwest ridge, during a break in the snow
Southwest Ridge

Let's get the hell out of here…retreat!
Southwest Ridge

Batian (centered) and Nelion (to its right) as seen from McKinder's Camp
Southwest Ridge

Diamong Ice Couloir and the twin summits of Mt. Kenya
Southwest Ridge

Jim sets an anchor to wait out the storm
Southwest Ridge

Fueling up for the descent
Southwest Ridge

Horrible rappelling in the snow on the descent
Southwest Ridge

The road through the jungle to the forest gate was really bad -- 4WD and muddy

The town of Chagoria; we didn't want to hang out here very long

Shopping for expedition food

Bags of grains at the Chagoria market

We transferred our expedition supplies to the green 4WD truck; good thing too, as it was hellish 4WD

Lucie at the trailhead of the Chagoria Route

Sunrise at the Mintos Hut area

Our super cool 4WD vehicle that took us to the park gate (plus the driver)

Drinking juice boxes so we don't have to carry them

Writing in the journal at camp at the start of the approach

Our first day on the approach to Mt. Kenya

On the hike up to Mintos Hut

Our camp at Hall Tarns near Mintos Hut

Hanging out in front of the filthy Mintos Hut

Filtering water for the day in one of the lakes near Mintos Hut

Ready for the next day's hiking

Jumping a bog in Temple Fields in a forest of giant groundsel

Resting at Tooth Col

The beautiful Gorges Valley with Mt. Kenya at the head

Lucie pets a soft cactus-like plant

Just about at the Mintos Hut on our first day of the approach

Finally we can see the summits on the approach

Lakes at Hall Tarns near Mintos Hut

View from our campsite near Mintos Hut

On the endless slog up to the Austrian Hut, Lucie begins to feel sick

On the final approach to Austrian Hut

Eating at McKinder's Camp

Talking about options…should we climb another route?

Stream through the moss near McKinder's Camp

Never able to keep warm, Lucie bundles up

Hiking through a forest of giant groundsel

Our descent to McKinder's Camp went around Point John; the summit of Batian is just behind

Hiking with an umbrella to shade from the sun

Must have a little sun block

Descending back to the roadhead, just entering the jungle

Resting at the Met Station, totally beat

Our porters at the Met Station

Batian and Point John; the long ribbon of white is the Diamond Couloir

Pretty flower along the hiking trail

Repacking on the hike out

Jim washes up, first time in 2 weeks

Jim washes up, first time in 2 weeks

Descending through the jungle to the Met Station

On the final march to the forest gate, glad to be done with it

We soloed several pitches up to some ledges, then racked up here at daybreak
Normal Route

Chris leads the section right of McKinder's Chimney
Normal Route

Looking down from the summit at the Austrian Hut and glacier traverse
Normal Route

Sitting at a belay high on the route
Normal Route

At the top of P15, Chris downclimbs into a gully and up the other side
Normal Route

Jim sitting in front of the Howell Hut
Normal Route

Victorious on the summit of Nelion
Normal Route

Enjoying the view from the summit of Nelion
Normal Route

Hanging out on the summit; the clouds are already starting to develop for the afternoon snow
Normal Route

One of the many raps from the summit
Normal Route

Traversing the glacier to the start of the route on a recon outing
Normal Route

Zigzagging up ledges at the start of the route
Normal Route

Racking up after soling a couple pitches
Normal Route

Leading up to the ridge past Baileys Bivy
Normal Route

Chris belays somewhere on the route
Normal Route

Traversing and dealing with the ropes
Normal Route

View from the summit of Nelion
Normal Route

Sitting in front of the Howell Hut
Normal Route

Examining the single-point rappel anchor; looks good
Normal Route

Investigating the ruined Bailies Bivy
Normal Route

This thing is barely hanging together; completely unusable
Normal Route

Mt. Lemmon (map)

Big cactus on the drive up Mt. Lemmon

Looking towards Tucson from the top of the Iranian Wall

Stemming action; this route is on a remote spire on the flanks of Mt. Lemmon
KR Goes to Montana

Entering the crux high on the first pitch; this is another difficult-to-find route on the flanks of Mt. Lemmon
Infidel

Leading the second pitch (5.8), thankful to be out of the chimney below
Great Expectations

The initial slab moves on Birthday Girl, Anduriel Tower
Birthday Girl

Splitting a seam high in the chimney of Girlie Mans Variation
Girlie Mans Variation

Climbing easy features through the roof on the second pitch of Bob Til You Drop
Bop Til You Drop

Gazing towards Tucson from the top of Rupley Tower B

Jim hanging out at the top of Rupley Tower C

Dennis hanging out at the top of Rupley Tower C

View towards Tucson after a rain storm

Lori climbs up the west side of the pinnacle
Hitchcock

Dennis moving up to the initial roof on the Noodler
The Noodler

Pulling through the initial roof on the second pitch of Mean Mistreator, Mean Mistreator Wall
Mean Mistreator

Jim near the start of Nang, Blazing Fin Tower
Nang

Just above the roof on Noodler, Blazing Fin Tower
The Noodler

Dennis high on the Noodler, ready to move into the upper bulge
The Noodler

Dennis moving up to the initial roof on the Noodler
The Noodler

Jim and Lucie on the ridge at Windy Point

Mt. Rushmore (map)

George Washington, from the free viewpoint (I can't believe you have to pay to see the "good" view)

Colin follows small crimps in the rain (which turned to snow)
5.9 Route

Mt. Washington (map)

Climbing in Pinnacle Gully in the mid '80s
Pinnacle Gully

Mt. Whitney (map)

Posers in front of Mt. Whitney
East Face

Mt. Whitney and surrounding spires as seen from the approach

The gang gathered in LA after the trip to Yosemite and Mt. Whitney

Displaying the giant rack
East Face

Lookin' stupid on the summit of My. Whitney
East Face

Nairobi (Kenya) (map)

Humble Hearts orphanage

Tusker beer, local Kenyan beer

Lucie kisses a giraffe named Lynn

Dining out in Nairobi

Three sisters, students at Humble Hearts school

Lucie taught block printing at the school. This is a class of mostly deaf children.

Nantucket (map)

Lucie and Jim sitting on the wharf

Narrows (map)

The Banana as seen from the towpath
Banana

The Deleware River as seen from a prominent point in the amphitheatre above Mixed Emotions

The power facility across from Main Flow

Grix belays Joe on Mixed Emotions; this photo shows how close the road and parking area are to the climbing
Mixed Emotions

Pulling over the crux of Mixed Emotions
Mixed Emotions

Following the route "Mixed Emotions"
Mixed Emotions

Scoping for a tool placement in the thin ice
Mixed Emotions

Approaching the belay on Mixed Emotions
Mixed Emotions

Climbing the Banana, the ice route high and right of Main Flow; this is perhaps the first ascent in 7 years of this route
Banana

Joa and Griz chatting in Griz's living room

Griz shares photos of PA ice with Joe

Climbing the first curtain; the ice barely accepts stubbie screws
Lock Tender

Right off the deck on Lock Tender
Lock Tender

The initial chimney on Lock Tender
Lock Tender

The first overlap on Lock Tender
Lock Tender

Using technique to pass one of the overhanging overlaps
Lock Tender

The crux of Lock Tender is [yet another] hanging dagger through an overlap with poor protection; after this ascent, several bolts were added to the route
Lock Tender

Climbing the upper column in fat conditions
Lock Tender

Joe climbs the upper column of Lock Tender as a school bus drives by
Lock Tender

Climbing thin, unprotected ice on Mixed Emotions
Mixed Emotions

The crux of Mixed Emotions involved climbing a short hanging dagger through an overlap, protected by a single spectre
Mixed Emotions

The route as seen from the towpath; the ice flow centered at the top of the photo is Levitator
Mixed Emotions

Getting established on the hanging dagger in the crux
Mixed Emotions

Joe gears up at the base of Main Flow
Main Flow

The route "Main Flow" as seen from the towpath; the route is about 350' high and about 20 yards from the road
Main Flow

Pennsylvania does have ice; here are the Narrows as seen from across the Deleware River

The routes "Pencil" (on the left) and "Evil Twin" (just to the right) as seen from the towpath
The Pencil

The power facility as seen from the top of the first pitch of Main Flow

New route potential in the amphitheatre above Mixed Emotions; the route "Levitator" is the column of ice on the left

Climbing the start of the Levitator, which is typically M7, but is unusually fat in these conditions
Levitator

Joe soloes the route "Left Side" with the routes "Pencil" and "Evil Twin" in the background
Left Side

Joe soloes the route "Left Side" with the routes "Pencil" and "Evil Twin" in the background
Left Side

Joe soloes Main Gully to approach The Pencil and other climbs

The routes "Pencil" and "Evil Twin" as seen from the top of Main Gully
The Pencil

The routes "Pencil" and "Evil Twin" as seen from the top of "Right Side"
The Pencil

Needles (map)

View of the Sorceror (on the left) and the Charlatan (on the right), taken from the second pitch of Igor Unchained

Climbers on Thin Ice in the early morning
Thin Ice

Climbers on Airy Interlude
Airy Interlude

Negros Island (Philippines) (map)

On top of the only climbable rock on Apo Island, you can see the beach where we had lunch and relaxed between dives

Some children playing at the beach on a small banca boat

Nelson Rocks (map)

Crossing the via ferrata on the approach to climbs from the Cabins

The Cabins at Nelson

Crossing the bridge on the via ferrata

Rappelling to the climbs at Nelson Rocks

Solid-looking "towel racks" allow non-climbers access to some pretty exposed spots

New River Gorge (map)

The single-span bridge over New River Gorge

Thems Jammer's Hands

Jim and Lucie sitting at the base of Burning Calves, Beauty Mountain

The 2nd pitch finger crack -- very hard moves intersperced with rests and great protection; I placed nearly an entire set of wires in this 100' pitch
Chasing The Wind

Shallow jams at the crux, belayed from below by Joe
Burning Calves

Jamming on Burning Calves
Burning Calves

Jamming on Burning Calves
Burning Calves

Burning it up on Burning Calves
Burning Calves

Burning it up on Burning Calves
Burning Calves

Burning it up on Burning Calves
Burning Calves

Climbing out of the cave at the start of Super Crack
Super Crack

Steep moves out of the chimney lead to easier climbing
Super Crack

Placing gear near the start
Super Crack

Moving around the nose
Super Crack

Jeremy back cleans a piece that would otherwise cause rope drag
Super Crack

Climbing the upper crack of Super Crack
Super Crack

Joe offers support from below
Super Crack

Joe in the middle of the thin crux; secret beta -- move right
Bat Crack

Shoe-ing up after climbing Jaws (and 10 hours of driving)
Jaws

John stuff himself into a crack on the final moves of Zag
Zag

Wow, what a route; Todd wasn't successful this time, maybe because of that giant rack of gear
Marionette

John stuffed in a crack at the top of Zag
Zag

Lucie posed in front of the New River

The New River from near Fern Point

Jeremy shoes up for Strike a Scowl

At the start of "Bonemaster", belayed by Joe

Easy climbing in the midsection of the route

Getting established on the slopers just past the crux

The gang gathered outside the Cathedral Café, Fayetteville

Tad and Tommy show off their massive arms

Tad traversing under the arch of Cresenta
Cresenta

The gang at the base of Cresenta just before a downpour
Cresenta

Traversing beneath the large overhang on Cresenta
Cresenta

A hard .10a, Triple Treat packs a punch at the roof
Triple Treat

Joe partying on Party in Your Mind
Party In Your Mind

Will placing gear in the super Smooth Operator
Smooth Operator

Jamming the perfect cracks of Smooth Operator
Smooth Operator

Jeremy nearly splits his pants in a wide stem
Four Sheets to the Wind

Climbing the perfect hand crack of New Yosemite
New Yosemite

Hanging from a jam while clipping gear
New Yosemite

Thin moves on "Reachers"
Reachers of Habbit

Squeezing out of the chimney at the start; I thought this was the crux of the route
Stuck in Another Dimension

At the top of the crack…just a couple more moves until the rest
Stuck in Another Dimension

Moving into the offwidth crack at the start
The Contortionist

At the start of The Entertainer
The Entertainer

The "Miguel's" of the New

Roger hangs out with climbers at his place in Kaymoor

Doing a headstand to prepare for the day

Tad having an adventure at the New
Anal Clenching Adventures

North Cascades (map)

Ade topping out on Forbidden
West Ridge

Ade nearing the summit of Forbidden
West Ridge

Liberty Bell, as seen from the rest stop on the highway

Jim on the summit of Liberty Bell
Beckey Route

On the summit of Liberty Bell
Beckey Route

Stuart, Jim, and Tracy lookin' tough on Mt. Baker
Coleman Glacier

Sportin' the traditional garb near the summit of Mt. Baker
Coleman Glacier

Hiding in a crevasse near the summit of Mt. Baker
Coleman Glacier

Stuart leading Winnie's Slide on the Fisher Chimney route
Fisher Chimneys

The upper section of Shuksan before Winnie's Slide
Fisher Chimneys

Examining the summit register on Shuksan
Fisher Chimneys

Stuart on the glacier
Fisher Chimneys

Ade ascending a tower on the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart
North Ridge

The North Ridge from the base of the Great Gendarme of Mt. Stuart
North Ridge

The North Ridge from the base of the Great Gendarme of Mt. Stuart
North Ridge

Jim leading the first pitch of the Great Gendarme or Mt. Stuart
North Ridge

North Ridge of Mt. Stuart from Goat Pass
North Ridge

Ade traversing along the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart
North Ridge

Mt. Stuart from the south
North Ridge

Jim on the summit of Mt. Stuart
North Ridge

Jim and Tracy feeling happy on the summit of Sahale
West Route

Tracy lookin' happy on the summit of Sahale; Forbidden is in the background
West Route

Orient Bay (Canada) (map)

Nipigon River along Route 11 just outside Nipigon on the way to Orient Bay

Jim just before the crux of Eveil Des Sens in early season; this was the first climb done in the Ice Palace area
Eveil Des Sens

A real classic of the area, Tommy climbs 10% Real early in the season; the crux starts just below Tommy's feet
10% Real

A little higher on the crux
10% Real

Higher up, Tommy stems onto the left wall that has just enough ice to support such a maneuver
10% Real

The climb angles back briefly, then steepens up once again for a second crux
10% Real

Tommy climbs the steep upper section of the free-hanging icicle
Parallax

Starting out on Parallax with the monster free-hanging pillar looming above
Parallax

In heavy snow, Jim climbs the mixed rock and ice to get established below the pillar
Parallax

Parallax in mid December conditions -- the pillar doesn't yet touch down
Parallax

Climbing the exceptionally wet and steep Reflection Wa;;
Reflection Wall

The climb Obsession ascends a big chimney just 50 meters from the road
Obsession

Reflection Wall on a rare sunny day; our ascent was the first for the year
Reflection Wall

Tommy climbs Cascade Falls on the right -- many lines can be climbed on this massive piece of ice, from WI3 to WI4
Cascade Falls

Tommy climbs the steep pillar at the top of Obsession; smart climbers (not us) belay at bolts on the left low on the route, then climb the route in one pitch instead of breaking the pitch at the place where this picture is taken
Obsession

Ostrov (Czech Republic) (map)

Topping out, reach for a hueco
Alter Weg

Topping out past the route book
Alter Weg

Opening moves involve tunneling through the center of the tower
Alter Weg

Horizontal within the tunnel
Alter Weg

Emerging from the other side of the tunnel, now with great exposure but good pro
Alter Weg

Turning around, getting ready to start up the remainder of the route
Alter Weg

Route book and the various pieces of the container
Alter Weg

Hanging out in the coffee shop (the one attached to the climbing store) waiting for the rain to stop

Outdoor store in Tisá is surprisingly well stocked

Many of these thin towers scattered in the forest

Thin tower seen from the summit of Deravá vež

Ouray (map)

The town of Ouray from the Camp Bird Mine Road (county road 361); you can see Cascade Falls in the red cliff band in the background

Leave the security of the cave on the third pitch; the ice is very unstable here
Skylight

Nikos following the second pitch up to the protected cave in the midsection of the chimney
Skylight

The awesome 3-pitch Skylight route
Skylight

Nikos at the second belay in an ice cave
Skylight

The Camp Bird Mine road, on the walk into the Skylight area

Looking southeast from the bridge, routes such as Tangled Up in Blue

Looking northwest from the bridge

Leading an unknown line between the bridges…looks easy, but it's 4R
Unknown

Nikos following the classic and photogenic Tangled Up in Blue on a cold and snowy day
Tangled Up in Blue

Topping out in the Uncompahgre Gorge
Tangled Up in Blue

Jim and Nikos at the bottom of the gorge, preparing to climb
Tangled Up in Blue

Danger sign found near the entrance to the gorge

In the gorge, in a sea of ice
Tangled Up in Blue

Scoping out routes between the bridges

Rappelling into the base of the gorge to climb Tangled Up in Blue
Tangled Up in Blue

Nikos topping out
Tangled Up in Blue

Jim near the top of the climb
Tangled Up in Blue

Massive amount of ice under the bridge
Tangled Up in Blue

Owens River Gorge (map)

Checking out the view on the way into the Gorge

First route in the Gorge, slippery and good
Fear of a Black Planet

Long reach at the crux
Fear of a Black Planet

Making a clip before the crux
Ambassadors of Funk

Powering through the crux
Ambassadors of Funk

Near the start, and pretty slippery
Welcome to the Gorge

In a sea of pockets near the anchor
Expressway

Pulling through the first overhanging section
Bone Up

Pulling though the big overhang high on the route
Bone Up

Whew…getting established after the roof
Bone Up

Thin, crimpy moves at the bottom
Expressway

Crimp…ouch!
Expressway

Steep climbing that just doesn't let up
Expressway

Paris (France) (map)

Notre Dame cathedral in Paris

Louvre museum

Patones (Spain) (map)

Jen reaches the first clip
Hasta Incluso

A zoo-like atmosphere at the crag just outside Madrid

Pembroke (Wales) (map)

Not-so-good picture of the Wales coastline

Not-so-good picture of the Wales coastline, from the top

Ade in a hole
The Hole

Penetente Canyon (map)

Mioara climbs the final crack to the anchor
May Be Nueve

Tommy reaches the anchors on Captain America; Mioara belays below

Continuous and technical stemming up corner near the Virgin Mary painting
Not My Cross To Bear

Tommy cranks up the huecos at the top of the route
Tanks for the Hueco

The Virgin Wall and the awesome arete (Bullet the Blue Sky) at sunset

Peshastin Pinnacles (map)

Overview of Peshastin Pinnacles from the parking lot

Ade belaying on Diagonal Direct
Diagonal Direct

Ade running it out on Peshastin sandstone
Diagonal Direct

Phuket (Thailand) (map)

Boy and mother cleaning chickens in the market

Meat market in Phuket, Thailand

Skinned frogs in Phuket

Pinecliffe (map)

Nikos moves through the upper corner on jams and layback moves
Frenzy

Once high in the corner, Nikos moves leftwards through the roof to the belay station
Frenzy

Nikos holds up lunch

Tommy poses for the camera below the crux
Crescent Moon

Tom leading out of the cave during rainy weather
Unknown

Waiting out some rain

Crossing the river on return from the Secret Crag

Nikos rushes across the Tyrolean on return from the Secret Crag

Tommy climbing an overhanging, juggy route
Unknown

Pitcairn (map)

Jim leading low on the first pitch
Men With Guns

Leading a beautiful NEI 4 first ascent
Graham Crackers

Upper section of Men with Guns
Men With Guns

Men with Guns and other routes at Pitcairn

Unnamed routes at Pitcairn

Seeley leading another first ascent at Pitcairn
Mutiny on the Bounty

Simeon at the start of Men with Guns; the route ascends the runnel of ice above Simeon's head
Men With Guns

Simeon climbs mixed rock on the first pitch
Men With Guns

Eric seconding on the first ascent of Men With Guns
Men With Guns

Simeon attempts the first ascent of the line left of Men With Guns

Pompey (map)

Jim's mountain bike

Dave and Kristen at a house party

Hema with really big ugly feet

Jeremy and Alex dressed up for Halloween

Dad, John, and Cathy in the early 1980s

Simon with wild hair at a house party

Martin and his bitch Eric

Jim, Lucie, and Jack sitting in the Mule

Clearing snow between the house and the garage on a typical snow year

Dad

Lucie in her Halloween costume, dressed as a flower girl

Dressed as a spicy, smoked snack for Halloween

Sleepy little George

George and Posey snuggle together for warmth

George in her special spot on the chair by the window

George in her special spot on the chair by the window

Our house from the southeast, and the barn to the left

Preparing for yet another trip

Lucie lounging in the snow in the meadow

Lucie in the meadow

The meadow near out house

The path to the meadow

Trees near the meadow

Hand made heating register (that closes) and recessed light in the basement bathroom

The basement bedroom

Bedroom closets beneath the stairs

Hallway leading into the basement bedroom

One of the shelves in the stairwell

Hallway leading to the flat files; doors on the right lead to walk-in cedar closets

Entrance to Lucie's walk-in closet

Hand made maple heating register with cherry knob for adjusting the flow

Jim's walk-in cedar closet with lots of supplies

Cedar drawers in Jim's cedar closet

Laundry sink with extending faucet head

Hand made maple plug outlet cover

Hand made maple plug outlet cover and cold air return

Hand made maple plug outlet cover and telephone jack

Posey and George on the bed in the basement bedroom

Posey in the stairwell

Looking down the stairs

Looking up the stairs

Cabinets housing the electric panel and spare light bulbs

Another one of Jim's creations -- a hand made maple light switch cover

Oak braces stacked and ready for use

Braces made of black walnut used in the studio and dining room

Bustin' a move on the foundation

Butterfly detail in the fireplace mantle; this mantle design is actually an unplanned "fix" to an error in the frame design

Chandelier center detail

Final chandelier hanging in the living room in front of the granite fireplace

Chandelier before adding the pine boughs and pine cones

Collections of pine cone bits

Sample pine cone before being affixed to the chandelier

Steve at work on the pine needles

Beginning the construction of the chimney

The chimney tent, used to keep in the heat during construction of the chimney

Granite facing on the foundation

Extra deep foundation

Foundation part-way through construction

Mason laying the flagstone floor of the front entrance

Everybody standing around during the house raising

Standing on the frame on the day of the raising

The master bedroom on the second floor

The house, just after completion of the roof

John standing in front of the rafters before they were lifted into position

The woods on our property

Collection of post and beams before being assembled

Collection of post and beams before being assembled

Workers busy with the barn raising

Intricate work and the steady hand of the crane operator

Working on the beams to connect the third bent

Chipping brush to prepare the house site

More site clearing activity

Work progresses; Brian takes a rest

Winter '93 -- deep snow nearly to the roof of the back porch

Winter '93 -- the driveway had to be shoveled by hand because no plow could move that much snow; the shoveling took three days

Winter '93 -- the snow is deeper than young Colin

Winter '93 -- front of the house after the storm

The stairs leading to the second floor

Valley rafter detail; the room below is Lucie's studio

Man uses giant wooden mallet during the frame raising

Doing finishing work on the second floor

Furry face

The living room of our house

The house as seen from the back yard

Breakfast of champions

The back shelf fits into the cargo cover slots and serves as a storage place while sleeping and for organizing gear

The bed, extended with the seats forward

The bed, extended with the seats forward, seen from the side

The bed seen from the rear of the vehicle with the homemade futon

The bed sits on a platform that is attached to the floor using the existing seat bolt holes. This was accomplished using a metal plate and some washers.

I placed rubber-backed carpeting on the floor to protect the truck interior

An empty truck seen from the back without the futon

The floor showing the hidden compartments

To extend the bed to full length, the seats are moved forward and two "extenders" slide forward; these hold the extra floor and futon bits

Detail showing the retracted extender; the metal brackets allow the extender to easily slide forward

The platform before the carpeting is installed, seen from the side

The platform before the carpeting is installed, seen from the rear of the vehicle

Questa Dome (map)

Questa Dome, as seen from highway 522

Rapping off after getting spanked…too wet, too cold, too hard
Question of Balance

Looking at the pitches above with water streaming down the face
Question of Balance

Hanging out at the belay
Question of Balance

Cool view looking up at the P1 belay
Question of Balance

View from P1, looking towards the Rio Grande
Question of Balance

Quito (Ecuador) (map)

Street vendor selling tasty treats; that dude's about to kill Lucie

Typical market scene -- lots of women in bowler hats

Los Alpes, the nicest hotel on the planet (or Quito)

RMNP (map)

Spearhead as seen from Black Lake

Chip and Bo begin the final pitch of Ithaca
Ithaca

Chris begins the third pitch
Arrowplane

Self portrait at the summit
Arrowplane

Jim and Lucie hanging out at Sky Pond

Scoping out the 8th pitch just above the Pizza Pan Belay
South Face of the Petit Grepon

Climbing the 8th pitch, which is actually on the east side of the pinnacle
South Face of the Petit Grepon

The beautiful valley leading to the Petit Grepon

Lucie and Jim posed in front of Sky Pond; our bivy was just off the right edge of the photo on the far end of the pond

Nikos at the Pizza Pan Belay
South Face of the Petit Grepon

Nikos arriving at the first belay; the Petit Grepon gets sun very early in the morning, much earlier than Sky Pond
South Face of the Petit Grepon

Nikos somewhere on the lower face
South Face of the Petit Grepon

Jim leading the crux pitch, looking down at Nikos at the belay ledge
South Face of the Petit Grepon

Nikos leading the final pitch to the table-sized summit of the Petit Grepon
South Face of the Petit Grepon

Nikos fiddling with stuff on the summit
South Face of the Petit Grepon

Nikos triumphant on the summit
South Face of the Petit Grepon

A very exposed rappel from the summit leads into the notch
South Face of the Petit Grepon

Cathedral Spires at dusk; the Petit Grepon is the thin needle-like summit above the large triangular face

Bivying at Sky Pond

Hiking in to the Diamond

The Diamond, as seen from Chasm Lake

North Chimney leading to Broadway Ledge; we got stormed off halfway up this chimney

Longs Peak, as seen from Lumpy Ridge

Standing at the base of the North Chimney after getting beaten down by the weather

Rai Lei (Thailand) (map)

Beach combers

Fishing boat with light bulbs to attract fish

Jim with funny glasses

Noi and the boatman

Hanging out on the beach

Martin and Jim on the boat

View looking down from a few pitches up on Orange Chandeliers
Orange Chandeliers

Martin at the first belay of Orange Chandeliers
Orange Chandeliers

Martin on the crux of the first pitch of Ao Nang Tower
Orange Chandeliers

Martin and Jim on the first pitch of Ao Nang Tower
Orange Chandeliers

Martin leading the route next to Ao Nang Tower
Orange Chandeliers

Martin (again) on the crux of the first pitch of Ao Nang Tower
Orange Chandeliers

View from the top of Mai Pen Rai
Mai Pen Rai

If this was the only route in Minnesota, then it would be the best one; otherwise, it's a guano-infested, slippery arete (although the initial traverse, shown here, is quite nice)
Best Route in Minnesota

Martin rapping off Chicken Muscle
Chicken Muscle

View from the top of Chicken Muscle, looking towards East Rai Lei Beach
Chicken Muscle

View of Ton Sai Bay from the top of Chicken Muscle
Chicken Muscle

Martin leading "Don't Worry, Be Happy" on Happy Island
Don't Worry, Be Happy

Close-up of Jim on Land of Smiles (5.12)
Land of Smiles

Jim leading "Land of Smiles" on Happy Island
Land of Smiles

Jim leading "Land of Smiles" on Happy Island
Land of Smiles

Jim leading "Land of Smiles" on Happy Island
Land of Smiles

Martin wading out to Happy Island

This route starts in a cave, then emerges out onto the face at a hole just below Martin
Sam I'm Not

The first route we did in Thailand was a steep one -- Maui Thai
Maui Thai

Martin doing splits on Lady Boy
Kratoy (Lady Boy)

Martin arriving at the second belay on Massage Secrets
Massage Secrets

Leading the first pitch of The King and I
The King and I

Jim, at the top of the second pitch of The King and I
The King and I

View from the third pitch of The King and I
The King and I

Martin rapping from The King and I
The King and I

Lucie painting

Lucie swimming

Naked Martin and Udsie

Jim and Lucie

Rai Lei Beach

Sunset at Rai Lei Beach

Swimming

Topless women at East Rai Lei Beach

Open-format house where we stayed; the house is set back from the beach

Deck of our house on East Rai Lei

Martin and Udsie looking for an available boat to return to Ao Nang

Long-tail boat operator with West Rai Lei Beach in the background

Red River Gorge (map)

Allen and Simon having beers around camp

Miguel's Pizza -- it's homemade

Giant overhangs in a remote area of Red River Gorge

Tad and Miguel chat in front of Miguel's pizza shop

The gang in New River Gorge

Tad climbing one of the most aesthetic climbs on the planet
Rock Wars

Tad behind Miguel's, after a heavy night of drinking

John leads a pocketed face typical of Red River Gorge
Moonbeam

Jim, blowing out his arms on Twinkie
Twinkie

John cleaning the pitch on Crazy Fingers
Crazy Fingers

Red Rocks (map)

Jim sorting gear after a day climbing

John and Allen's car

View of the Rainbow Wall from the one-way loop road

Allen crimping high on the Prince
Prince of Darkness

Contemplating the opening moves on pitch 6
Prince of Darkness

My first climb at Red Rocks, and a pumpy one too
High Wire

My first climb at Red Rocks
High Wire

Beautiful rock at the end of the day
Trigger Happy

John placing his first piece of gear in the crack
Out of Control

John works through the opening section of Red Heat
Red Heat

Unknown woman leading Running Man
Running Man

John climbing on one of the steeper walls of the Gallery
Fear and Loathing III

Rifle (map)

Mossy creek in the canyon

Red building in the canyon

Camping in the vansion at Rifle, which was a good thing since it rained every day

Pretty canyon

Lookin' smooth at the Middle Ice Caves area

Tenuous brook crossing

Starting up Cold Cuts
Cold Cuts

Near the bottom of Cold Cuts
Cold Cuts

Angular holds characterize this route, and just about every other route at Rifle
Cold Cuts

Bustin' back muscles
Feline

Amazing climbing, no route finding here due to the chalk
Feline

Strenuous pulling and an intricate sequence coming up
Feline

Suppose to be 5.9, but more like .11a
Unknown

Another "warm up" route, pretty much at our limit
Rehabilitator

Givin' it on Handy Boy
Handy Boy

Colin on Rumor Has It, a super popular .11b
Rumor Has It

Fierce and strenuous laybacking
Rumor Has It

Nice thigh jam in the back of Skull Cave
Forgotten Years

Steep climbing in a cave…a good choice because it was raining
Pile Driver

Rock Creek (map)

Standing at the base of Gong Show Crag

Gong Show Crag, as seen from the road

Thin moves at the start of the route
He She

Awesome views from the base of the wall

Gong Show Crag proved a popular destination with locals

Preparing to lead, not super motivated
Welcome to the Iris Slab

Shoeing up
Welcome to the Iris Slab

Rock Garden (map)

The beautiful Rock Garden, as seen when approaching from Penetente Canyon

Starting up, pretty much the crux of the route
U2RINXS

Traversing to the arete
U2RINXS

The route climbs the left tower of the highest formation in the photo; Colin is there if you look closely
U2RINXS

Cranking on a jug in a sea of rock
U2RINXS

Approaching the Rock Garden from Penetente Canyon

Rumbling Bald (map)

Welcome to North Carolina…snow!

A beautiful, rasor-cut crack made easy by good foot edges on the face
Fruit Loops

This route follows a right-curving overlap with the crux right off the ground
Comatose

Rumney (map)

The super steep Bonsai Wall
Centerpiece

Bustin' a move on the Bonsai Wall
Centerpiece

Pulling through steep flakes at Darth Vadar
Victim of Love

Salmon River Falls (map)

Salmon River Falls Unique Area

Will and David gear up for the day

Finishing the crux column, about to dry tool to the finish on rotten shale
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Jim leading the first ascent of The Elbow
The Elbow

Series 1: The overhanging wall containing Mate, Spawn, and Die
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Series 2: The route follows the right-hand columns of the flow
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Series 3: Marks the route Mate, Spawn, and Die
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Series 4: Climbing into the crux, the ice hangs free from the rock above
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Series 5: Close-up - high on Mate, Spawn, and Die
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Series 6: Placing bomber protection before moving into the free hanging columns
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Series 7: Clipping the fixed runner at the top of the ice; the runner is connected to a bolt, the first placed at Salmon River
Mate, Spawn, and Die

At the top of the column, the route climbs into the overhanging root ball of a tree, then climbs the branches, and finally the rock to the rim of the Gorge
Go Fly a Kype

Jeremy climbs the stellar line in fat conditions, belayed by Leslie
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Approaching the top column in fat conditions
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Approaching the top column in fat conditions
Mate, Spawn, and Die

One of the easier lines in the Gorge, Salmon Runs climbs the right side of the Amphitheatre wall
Salmon Runs

One of the more creative routes at the Gorge, Curtain Call traverses behind all the pillars on the Amphitheatre wall, finally emerging from a hole and finishing up on Salmon Runs
Curtain Call

Michelle approaches the cave belay
Curtain Call

Shot of the route taken from the base showing the steep, overhanging ice and the rock roofs above
Play It Again, Salmon

The steepest section of the Amphitheatre
Play It Again, Salmon

Chris on the second ascent, hanging from a ripped out screamer after a tied-off ice tool popped; the other axe is left placed well above his head
Play It Again, Salmon

Chris on the steep ice column on the second ascent
Play It Again, Salmon

Chris reaches the first bolt on top of the steep ice on the second ascent; the route continues to the right onto a ledge (the one with the icicles), then pumps through three large roofs to the rim
Play It Again, Salmon

The first ascent of Play It Again, Salmon -- on the steep, free-standing pillar at the bottom of the route
Play It Again, Salmon

Michelle belays while Jim places a screw
Play It Again, Salmon

Steep ice in the Amphitheatre
Play It Again, Salmon

The first ascent of Play It Again, Salmon -- overview of the entire route
Play It Again, Salmon

Nearing the top of the ice
Play It Again, Salmon

Having reached the top of the ice (and the bolt), the route traverses right
Play It Again, Salmon

In the midst of the rock section; the crux roof is just below
Play It Again, Salmon

Attempting to de-pump
Play It Again, Salmon

Preparing to climb in the Amphitheatre

Climbing overhanging ice at the start of the route
Play It Again, Salmon

Climbing the lower column
Play It Again, Salmon

Thankfully reaching the rest at the top of the free-standing column
Salmonella

Early season ice on a -10F day in the Amphitheatre
Salmon Runs

The Amphitheatre in reasonable condition; centered is Mate, Spawn and Die and A Pitch Called Wanda

Bones climbs the beginning section of Wanda with the Amphitheatre in the background
A Pitch Called Wanda

Bones dry-tools the rock to reach the free-hanging curtain
Chum

Bones dry-tools the rock to reach the free-hanging curtain
Chum

Bones dry-tools the rock to reach the free-hanging curtain
Chum

Bones reaches the ice and climbs onto the curtain
Chum

Bones establishes himself on the ice curtain
Chum

Climbing the ice curtain
Chum

Climbing the ice curtain
Chum

At the top of the curtain, Bones climbs through a section of rock to reach the top
Chum

Bones climbs the thin pencil column at the start of Wanda
A Pitch Called Wanda

Bones climbs the thin pencil column at the start of Wanda
A Pitch Called Wanda

Bones on the second ascent of Wanda
A Pitch Called Wanda

Bones on the second ascent of Wanda
A Pitch Called Wanda

Getting into the meat of the ice climbing
A Pitch Called Wanda

Bones climbs through the crux of the route -- overhanging daggers and curtains
A Pitch Called Wanda

David shoots Bones as he nears the top of the ice
A Pitch Called Wanda

Preparing gear for the first ascent of Chum
Chum

Bones inspects the route prior to the first ascent
King Salmon

Dry-tooling up to the right side of a small ledge
King Salmon

From the top of the small ledge, Bones steps left, then climbs rock and a thin ice column straight up
King Salmon

Continuing up the small ice column
King Salmon

From the top of the ice column, Bones mounts the ice and climbs into a small ice cave to rest
King Salmon

Getting closer to the ice cave
King Salmon

Bones rests in the ice cave
King Salmon

Emerging from the ice cave, Bones continues
King Salmon

Bones climbs the overhanging crux
King Salmon

Bones on rappel inspecting the route prior to the first ascent
King Salmon

The King Salmon route as seen from The Elbow
King Salmon

Chris belys Tommy in a field of blue ice blocks; while following the route, enormous ice blocks released, completely burying this belay spot in tons of fresh ice
Play it Again, Salmon

Michelle gets ready to lead Salmon Steak
Salmon Steak

Tommy gets ready to lead the class Mate, Spawn, and Die
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Tommy finds fat ice on Mate, Spawn, and Die
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Tommy runs it out over the initial section
Play it Again, Salmon

About half way up, Tommy heads slightly left to gain a rest between the columns
Play it Again, Salmon

Spectacular climbing on the 100' free standing ice column
Play it Again, Salmon

Chris belays Tommy while he places a screw
Play it Again, Salmon

Just above the crux of Chum; on the first ascent, the column under Clive's left foot wasn't formed
Chum

At the "flat stance" on Chum Lick; the route bridges up between the rock and ice (using Chum's bolts), then corkscrews around to the front of the column and on to the top
Chum Lick

Bridging up between the rock and the ice
Chum Lick

Corkscrewing around to the front of the column
Chum Lick

Todd belays Griz on the first ascent of Chum Lick
Chum Lick

Resting before the final push through the rock section
Chum Lick

Griz leads the first ascent of Chum Stick -- the Chum column taken directly
Chum Stick

A little higher on the column, Griz flags a foot for a rest
Chum Stick

Placing a screw
Chum Stick

Depumping after placing a screw
Chum Stick

Griz leads, Todd belays from below
Chum Stick

Nearing the top of the ice column; the ice is peppered with shale bits from the rock band
Chum Stick

Nearing the top of the ice
Chum Stick

At the top of the ice, Griz chokes up on his tool, clips the bolt on the right, then proceeds through the rock band
Chum Stick

First ascent of Sockeye -- to preserve the ice column, Griz bridges from the rock
Sockeye

Higher, the gap narrows, squeezing Griz and forcing him out the notch to the front
Sockeye

At the top of the chimney, Griz scums his back against a protruding rock for a rest
Sockeye

Around the front of the column, the climbing eases and allows some restful stemming
Sockeye

Nearing the top of the ice
Sockeye

On the first ascent of Filet it Again; the roof below is pumpy, but the ice crux is still to come
Filet It Again

Simeon pauses at the base of the steep section
Salmonella

Simeon pauses at the base of the steep section
Salmonella

Climbing steep ice on Salmonella
Salmonella

Steep ice in the Amphitheatre with the river below; Salmon Steak is the large ice flow in the upper right of the photo
Salmonella

Gearing up

Todd climbs Mate, Spawn, and Die in fat conditions
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Using a little technique on the sharp end
Mate, Spawn, and Die

The pretty Mate, Spawn, and Die with the prow of the Amphitheatre visible in the background
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Griz looks on as Todd leads
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Todd climbs Salmonella
Salmonella

A little higher on Salmonella
Salmonella

Salmonella with the "big routes" behind
Salmonella

The route Green Eggs and Salmon climbs the left side of this flow in the Lower Gorge; Salmon I Am climbs the column and overhang in the center of the photo
Green Eggs and Salmon

Mike first ascent, center section of the main falls
Slappin' The Salmon

Mike first ascent, center section of the main falls
Slappin' The Salmon

Mike leads the first ascent of the main falls
Slappin' The Salmon

Jim leading the main falls, left side
Lox and Locks

Jim high up on Shale We Climb in thin conditions, second ascent
Shale We Climb

Shale We Climb topo
Shale We Climb

Jim pumping through the initial roof
Shale We Climb

Topo of Shale We Climb in fat conditions
Shale We Climb

Tad seconding the first pitch of Shale We Climb
Shale We Climb

Jim leading an unnamed column on the wall left of the main falls
Emergency Release

Pretty easy climbing, but the ice is unconsolidated and protection is sparse
Lox and Locks

Deep snow in the Salmon River Gorge

Dave belays Mike, hidden in a groove
Slappin' The Salmon

Dave belays Mike on the Main Falls, likely the first ascent
Slappin' The Salmon

The Main Falls in a good year

The Main Falls melting out on the right side

Shale We Climb in WI4 conditions
Shale We Climb

Leading through the final column; this column rarely comes in
Shale We Climb

Checking out the questionable rock near a column on the upper wall
Emergency Release

Simon leads a column that forms near the Gorge Trail; main falls in the background
Fingerlings

The columns of ice along the canyon rim (right of the Main Falls) form into fat and challenging climbs late in the season
Emergency Release

Tad attempting to lead the first pitch of Shale We Climb
Shale We Climb

Pumping through the opening roof
Shale We Climb

The Salmon River Falls in fat conditions; everything in this picture is currently off-limits, including those awesome looking hangers on the left

Tad following the main downstream flow
Salmon Steak

Jim leading the main downstream flow
Salmon Steak

Simon leading the main downstream flow
Salmon Steak

Simon high up on the main downstream flow
Salmon Steak

Jim leading the main downstream flow, center section
Salmon Steak

Simon placing his first screw
Salmon Steak

Simon leads a fat WI4
The Ice Hatchery

Lower Gorge as seen from downstream

Lower Gorge as seen from downstream

Simeon on the first ascent of Sashimi; doesn't look like it, but water is running into his boots
Sashimi

Mike follows Chris on the right side of Salmon Steak
Salmon Steak

San Luis Valley (map)

View of the Sangre De Cristo mountains at sunset

Santa Catalina Mountains (map)

Eric approaches the summit of Finger Rock; the rapel station is below the actual summit blocks, as they are quite unstable
Finger Rock

Eric takes a dip in the brook while Lori gives him "alpine curtesy"

The ridge above Tucson, labeled
Finger Rock

The ridge above Tucson showing (starting from the right) Finger Rock Guard, Finger Rock, Prominent Point, and the Thunderbird Wall
Finger Rock

Sedona (map)

Sitting on top of The Mace, at the end of P4
The Original Route

Stemming up the complex assortment of towers on P4; crux is at the top of the pitch
The Original Route

Seneca Rocks (map)

The town of Seneca Rocks

Terrible picture of the Seneca ridge as seen from town

Climbing shop at Seneca Rocks

Joe and Tom share beers on the porch

Justin stops to chat in the street at Seneca Rocks

The north and south peaks as seen from town

The town of Seneca Rocks as seen from South Peak

Downtown Seneca Rocks; the "Porch" is on the left, the standard climber dinner spot

On the east face of South Peak, Jeremy climbs through the crux of Castor, belayed by Joe
Castor

Deep jamming on Castor
Castor

Jeremy stylin' on Castor
Castor

Nearing the top of Castor with the South Buttress in the background
Castor

Shoulder dislocation on Castor
Castor

Rappelling down the east face of the South Peak from the "hole" at the top of Pleasant Overhangs
Pleasant Overhangs

High on the Pollux route
Pollux

Spring climbing before the leaves
Pollux

Gazing at the valley from the base of the South Peak
Pleasant Overhangs

Joe puzzles through the crux moves at the start of High Test
High Test

Following the second traversing pitch
Pleasant Overhangs

Joe lookin' out; I can be seen in the reflection
Pleasant Overhangs

Closeup of the South Peak

Sept-Îles (Canada) (map)

Will leading the last pitch (WI6+R) of Le Mulot
Le Mulot

Will leading the last pitch (WI6+R) of Le Mulot (with big arrow pointing to the climber)
Le Mulot

Will leading the third pitch (WI6)
Le Mulot

Will leading the third pitch (WI6); lots of twisted-looking overhanging ice
Le Mulot

Le Mulot as seen from the river
Le Mulot

Will following the second pitch
Le Mulot

Will starting out on the last pitch…the calm before the storm
Le Mulot

Topo showing the route and belays; picture taken from the river
Le Mulot

Topo showing the route and belays; picture taken from the side
Le Mulot

Will and Jim on Le Mulot
Le Mulot

The third pitch of Le Mulot; the overhanging cliff and constant wind work to create the painfully contorted, yellow icicles on the right
Le Mulot

Shawangunks (map)

Leading a first ascent of a route to the right of Resistance (5.11?)
Lichen' The Lip

About to pull the crux on a nice face climb at Lost City (5.10a)
Nest Route

Will leading Black Crack, a nice 5.10 crack left of Lost City Crack
Black Crack

Close-up of Will leading Black Crack
Black Crack

Will leading the crux of Black Crack
Black Crack

Shows the entire sequence on Cars that Eat People
Cars That Eat People

Series 1: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People
Cars That Eat People

Series 2: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People
Cars That Eat People

Series 3: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People
Cars That Eat People

Series 4: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People
Cars That Eat People

Series 5: Moving through the crux of Cars that Eat People
Cars That Eat People

Series 6: Just past the crux; placing the gold Camalot
Cars That Eat People

Jim climbing the hard-to-protect crack right of Resistance; this section of the route is 5.10b
Lichen' The Lip

Hidden off-width crack at Lost City
Evelyn

Below the crux of the hidden off-width crack at Lost City; we didn't make it this go
Evelyn

Just getting into the crux section of Lost City Crack
Lost City Crack

Will at the "pod" crux of Resistance
Resistance (aka Surprise Crack)

Will below of the Wishbone roof; the normal route goes out the right side of the large triangular block
Wishbone

Leading the 5.8 section up to the roof
Stannard's Roof

Just below the roof
Stannard's Roof

Lost City cliff, as seen from the Overcliff Road

Lost City with some points of interest labeled

Chris attempts the onsite
Gravity's Rainbow

Looking up from the cave at the base of the route, Chris climbs into the crux; the route is steep, overhanging from base to summit
Persistence

Climbing the tweaky moves above the initial roof of Survival
Survival of the Fittest

After clipping the fixed pins, Chris rests before the crux of the route
Survival of the Fittest

Awosting Falls in Minnewaska State Park; too bad you can't swim

Leading a poorly protected face in wet conditions at the Nears
Good Friday Climb

Barely pulling the layback crux at the Nears
Void Where Inhibited

Getting in some gear after the boulder problem start of Elder Cleavage
Elder Cleavage

Moving into the crux of Hang Ten
Hang Ten

At the crux on Birdland
Birdland

A failed attempt at the hard start to Criss
Criss

Series 1: Making the moves into the crack from the chimney
Harvest Moon

Series 2: Moving through the crux jams
Harvest Moon

Series 3: Still moving through the crux jams
Harvest Moon

Series 4: At the rest at the top of the crack
Harvest Moon

Series 1: On the lower wall
Swing Time

Series 2: Just clipped the fixed gear below the roof
Swing Time

Series 3: Moving left to the lip of the roof
Swing Time

Series 4: Grabbing the bomber hang jam with the knees locked below the roof
Swing Time

Series 5: Hanging from the good buckets at the lip of the roof
Swing Time

Series 6: A toe hook allows one to grab the horizontal further left
Swing Time

Series 7: A bomber heel hook allows one to grab the side pull above the roof; a fall from this position would surely break the ankle, and the swing would slam one headfirst into the wall below
Swing Time

Series 8: The crux involves pulling up on side-pulls and standing on the horizontals above the roof
Swing Time

Pulling through the lip of Foops
Foops

Working out the roof on Foops
Foops

Close-up of friends in the initial crack of No Exit
No Exit

At the bottom of No Exit
No Exit

Messing up a tenuous clip on Scare City
Scare City

Tad pumping through the overhanging hand crack of Wipe Out
Wipe Out

Tad pumping through the overhanging hand crack of Wipe Out
Wipe Out

Mom and Dad next to Mohonk Lake

Starting out on the first pitch of Sound and Fury
Sound and Fury

Pulling through a 5.9 crack on the first section of Foops
Foops

Enjoying the sun and quiet on Single File
Single File

Steve at the top of Peat's Meat at Skytop
Pete's Meat

Clipping the second piece of gear at the start of the crux
Max Factor

Jim following the first 5.9 section of Foops
Foops

The Mohonk Hotel as seen from Skytop

Checking out the crux roofs on Bonnie's Roof Direct
Bonnie's Roof Direct

Hanging around on the roofs of Pink Laurel
Pink Laurel

Stuart starting the last pitch of High Exposure
High Exposure

Trad weenies in the 1980s

Close-up of Joe climbing the crack above the crux on Retribution
Retribution

Close-up of Tom clearing the second crux on MF, pitch 1
MF

Close-up of Will gearing up for the crux moves on Wegetables
Wegetables

Close-up of Will gearing up for the crux moves on Wegetables
Wegetables

Working out the crux on Retribution
Retribution

Climbing the crack above the crux on Retribution
Retribution

The gang hanging out at the base of Turdland

Tom clearing the second crux on MF, pitch 1
MF

Powering through the roof on the second pitch of Birdie Party
Birdie Party

Gearing up for the roof moves on Bonnie's Roof
Bonnie's Roof Direct

Gearing up for the crux moves on Wegetables
Wegetables

Gearing up for the crux moves on Wegetables
Wegetables

Rich and Myriam at the belay at the top of the first pitch of Directissima
Directissima

Jim leading the second pitch of Directissima
Directissima

Dick on the mega-classic MF
MF

Will's completed the difficulties and tackles the 10b upper section
April Showers

Struggling on the low roof of Interstice on the Mac Wall
Interstice

Series 1: Will leading the crux on the first pitch of Matinee
Matinee

Series 2: Finishing the crux moves on the first pitch of Matinee
Matinee

Series 3: Jim moving past the crux on the first pitch of Matinee
Matinee

Series 1: Will places gear in preparation for the crux roof
10,000 Restless Virgins

Series 2: Q: Is that Steve Petro? A:Nope, it's a ripped Will bustin' out of his skin
10,000 Restless Virgins

Series 3: Will gets established in the crux roof
10,000 Restless Virgins

Series 4: Will places gear in the crux roof
10,000 Restless Virgins

Series 5: A couple of pieces in, time to move up
10,000 Restless Virgins

Series 6: Lock off and reach high in the crack above
10,000 Restless Virgins

Series 7: Feet up, nearly finished
10,000 Restless Virgins

Climbing up the arete on the second (or third) pitch of Directissima
Directissima

Hanging out on the High Exposure ledge
Directissima

A climber makes his way up the first pitch
Modern Times

Climbing amongst severely overhanging rock on CCK Direct
CCK Direct

Sequence showing climbing the crux overhanging wall of the second pitch of Directissima
Directissima

Selecting gear to place into the horizontal crack at the crux
Directissima

Clipping the rope
Directissima

One more mantle and it's done
Directissima

John leading the final thin section of Three Doves
Three Doves

Lucie climbs juggy rock on Frogs Head
Frogs Head

Lucie belays; Millbrook in the background
Frogs Head

Chris boulders the opening moves on the direct start of Scary Area; Bones offering support from below
Scary Area

Placing the first piece of gear in the horizontal
Scary Area

Scoping out the moves above
Space Invaders

Moving up the initial arete on Space Invaders
Space Invaders

Series 1: Starting the difficult traverse moves beneath the roof
Matinee

Series 2: Doing the hand swap on the small hold on the underside of the roof
Matinee

Series 3: Snagging the bucket at the end of the traverse
Matinee

Bones offering beta to Chris at the base of Stirrup Trouble
Stirrup Trouble

Looking for that first piece of protection
Space Invaders

In the crux; one more move and there's a solid hand jam
Space Invaders

Chris climbs the initial scary section, belayed by Bones
Stirrup Trouble

Approaching the traverse (.11+)
Uphill All The Way

Chalking up before the traverse
Uphill All The Way

Chris solos the first pitch of Enduro Man; some climbers place a small brass nut, but it's practical use is arguable
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout

Jim photographs his daughter on Nosedive

Will and Michelle on the GT ledge preparing for the top pitches
Erect Direction

Bouldering up the start of Susie A (5.10+)
Susie A

Sheep Mountain (map)

Clipping the bolt at the start of the route
Standard Route

Unlocking the crux sequence to gain the crack system
Standard Route

Stemming high on the route
Standard Route

Relaxing on top of Devil's Thumb
Standard Route

Belaying Tommy with fingerless gloves
Standard Route

Making the crux face moves at the bottom of the route
Babies On Fire

Nice crack climbing in the sun (finally)
Hang Nail

More climbing in the rain. This route sucks - short, dirty, and awkward.
Middle Cracks

Shelf Road (map)

Tommy nears the top of this fine, juggy route
B/C

Close-up of Tommy on B/C
B/C

Grabbing the jug after the tenuous opening moves
Bacher Against The Wall and Kauk Her

Close-up -- Grabbing the jug after the tenuous opening moves
Bacher Against The Wall and Kauk Her

Contortions on the upper section
Bacher Against The Wall and Kauk Her

Close-up -- Contortions on the upper section
Bacher Against The Wall and Kauk Her

Sinks Canyon (map)

Waterfall at the head of Sinks Canyon

Waterfall at the head of Sinks Canyon

In the steep corner of P1
More Gunky Than Funky

Approaching the belay; odd angle with fish-eye lens
More Gunky Than Funky

Sisters (map)

Stuart toproping above the Colombia River
Unknown

Smith Rock (map)

View of Smith Rock and the Dihedrals from Asterisk Pass

Joe Fitchen hanging around camp

John following midway up the first pitch
Screaming Yellow Zonkers

Jim leading Zonkers
Screaming Yellow Zonkers

Leading the third pitch of Zion
Zion

Climbing giant huecos
Ten Gallon Buckets

Allen following midway up Karate Crack
Karate Crack

Jim jams his way up one of the few cracks at Smith
Karate Crack

John leading the Pope with Joe Fitchen
Barbecue The Pope

Smuggler's Notch (map)

Will and Joe waiting at the first belay
Creighton-Korman

Boney Boy following the second pitch
Creighton-Korman

South Dakota Needles (map)

Finally in the sun, Colin enjoys a comfy belay at the end of P1
West Gruesome

With rain starting, Jim does a quick rap into the chimneys
West Gruesome

View of the Cathedral Spires, as seen from the top of the Totem Pole

View of the Cathedral Spires, as seen from the top of the Totem Pole

View of the Cathedral Spires, as seen from the top of the Totem Pole

View of the Cathedral Spires, as seen from the top of the Totem Pole

View of the Cathedral Spires, as seen from the top of the Totem Pole

Colin raps the Hitching Post back to the car
Hitching Post

Tons of needles at the Eye Parking lot

Looking down at the car from the top of the Hitching Post
Hitching Post

Colin sitting on top of the Hitching Post
Hitching Post

Colin eating breakfast in the carport

View of the Ten Pins area from Cathedral Spires

View of the Ten Pins area from Cathedral Spires

Leading out of the corridor up the back side of the Tricouni Nail
Tricouni Nail

Anchored to the top of the Tricouni Nail
Tricouni Nail

Anchored to the top of the Tricouni Nail
Tricouni Nail

A view of the Ten Pins, as seen from the top of the Totem Pole

Colin comes up the final chimney
Totem Pole

Standing on the sub-spire just after the crux
Totem Pole

Standing on the sub-spire just after the crux
Totem Pole

The final face moves to the summit
Totem Pole

The final face moves to the summit
Totem Pole

Rapping the Totem Pole
Totem Pole

Rapping the Totem Pole
Totem Pole

On the summit of the Totem Pole
Totem Pole

On the summit of the Totem Pole
Totem Pole

On the summit of the Totem Pole
Totem Pole

South Platte (map)

Center Route and Wunsch's Dihedral, taken from the approach
Center Route

Tommy leads the first pitch (5.8) of Center Route; the second pitch ends below the large triangular roof above
Center Route

The route traverses the face, finally emerging on the arete at the skyline
Choeps

The crux of the route involves traversing on a super thin slab
Choeps

Jack ponders the approaching storm; we bailed at this point due to the rain
Gonzo's Lament

Moving up the great flakes of The Standard; two bolts protect the lower section
The Standard

Lee works his way through the crux flakes at the start of The Standard; Mioara and Tommy start up another route in the foreground
The Standard

Stemming into the crux corner
Deception Past

Higher in the corner, Tommy contemplates a gear placement
Deception Past

Clipping the #1 Camalot
Deception Past

After making the crux moves, Tommy looks down for the camera
Deception Past

Reaching the belay on the first pitch of Deception Past
Deception Past

Preparing breakfast; keg in the background

Early morning breakfast before heading out to Wigwam

Climbing the thin face on the third pitch
T.B. Buttress

Spearfish Canyon (map)

Campusing up the big moves at the start
Son of a Thousand Fathers

Looking around for dry rock

Climbing in the snow
Sundrops

Stemming on large buckets at the start of the route
Sundrops

Spring Creek (map)

Chris at the top of the "tower" after climbing a new line -- an absolute choss pile
Spring Creek Tower

Squamish (Canada) (map)

Jim on the Grand Wall
Grand Wall

John, topping out on the Split Pillar
Grand Wall

John leading the perfect finger crack of Exasperator
Exasperator

Suicide Rocks (map)

John at the belay after a scary runout
Mickey Mantel

Sunset Park (map)

Looking north from the top of the cliff over the fall foliage with the Tennessee River in the background

Will approaching the first belay; the crux crack is just above
Pigs In Space

Strenuous start to Liberty Bell, probably more in the 5.10 range
Liberty Bell

Syracuse (map)

Jim and Kristen

Dancin' Chris

Cuttin' some rug

Cuttin' some rug

Small talk

Eric checkin' out Kristen

Big smile

Simeon and his harem

Simon pouring beer over Kristen's head

Random drinking

Dancing

Funny faced Cary

The band

Jim's first dedicated climbing vehicle; this car was totaled on Rt. 8 in the southern Adirondacks

Lucie modeling the climber's truck

Bouldering on Warner's Monument at the cemetery

Taipei (Tiawan) (map)

Streets of Taipei

Taquitz (map)

Jim leading past the crux of the Traitor Horn
Traitor Horn

Taylor Canyon (map)

Chris relaxes in the pass above Taylor Canyon

Telluride (map)

Ames Ice Hose seen from across the valley (fat conditions)
Ames Ice Hose

Simeon arriving at the second belay on Ames Ice Hose
Ames Ice Hose

Simeon leading the third pitch of Ames Ice Hose
Ames Ice Hose

Jim leading the fourth pitch of Ames Ice Hose
Ames Ice Hose

Jim standing at the base of Bridalveil Falls
Bridalveil Falls

Jim starting the third pitch of Bridalveil Falls
Bridalveil Falls

Simeon starting out from the third/cave belay
Bridalveil Falls

Simeon on the fourth pitch of Bridalveil Falls
Bridalveil Falls

Triumph after Bridalveil Falls
Bridalveil Falls

Close-up of ice screw
Bridalveil Falls

Bridalveil Falls as seen from the side on the descent trail
Bridalveil Falls

Jim on the crux column at the start of the second pitch of Bridalveil Falls
Bridalveil Falls

Ten Sleep Canyon (map)

Colin's first lead in the canyon
Ice Station Zebra

Wyoming humor -- mark the trails with bones from cattle

Looking across the canyon from Dreamland

The canyon, low down, near the Home Alone area

Colin looking all scary

View of the canyon from the Circus Wall side canyon

Picturesque canyon that contains the Circus Wall

The prolific Charlie cleaning a new line

Stemming the funnel at the top of Beer Bong
Beer Bong

Stemming the funnel at the top of Beer Bong
Beer Bong

Wicked good climbing up this arete
Positive Identification

Cool face with giant pockets
Mistaken Identity

Cool face with giant pockets
Mistaken Identity

Super cool climbing on pockets
Positive Identification

Pullin' down on pockets
Warewolves in London

Pullin' down on pockets
Warewolves in London

Incredible climbing up the face and arete
Euro Trash Girl

Gearing up at the start of the route
Euro Trash Girl

Pullin' on jugs up the arete
Orange Likin' Delight

Pullin' on jugs up the arete
Orange Likin' Delight

On the opening face, low on the route
Wicked as an M-16

Cool detached spire with several routes

Tennessee Wall (map)

Starting our on the mega-classic. The crux is just above the small roof.
Cake Walk

Moving through the roof on jugs; the crux is the thin barn-door-ish crack just above
Digital Macabre

Heel-hooking the roof on Finagle
Finagle

After railing out the lip of the roof, Will tries to gain purchase above the lip of the roof
Finagle

Placing gear in the "hole" of Precious Orr; the hole is avoided by face-climbing on the right
Precious Orr

Placing gear at the top of the corner before heading into the crux section; lots of small wires required
Super Slide

Looking downstream (south) on the Tennessee River from the top of the Tennessee Wall

Looking upstream on the Tennessee River from the top of the Tennessee Wall

It's hard to believe that rock this overhanging is only 5.8
Open Sesame

Sunset and still can't get enough; Tad climbs the runout arete of Crash Position
Crash Position

Tetons (map)

Colin approaching No Perches, but up the wrong gully
No Perches Necessary

Traversing to find the base of the route
No Perches Necessary

The Grand Teton

Teton range

Teton range

Colin approaching No Perches, but up the wrong gully
No Perches Necessary

Starting up the first pitch; the route breaks the roof and follows an offwidth crack
No Perches Necessary

Colin belays
No Perches Necessary

The Grand Teton from low in the valley

The Hut (map)

Back porch, no roof, floor, or framing

Back porch timbers and ceiling (2x6 T&G white cedar)

Back porch floor, made from 2x4 T&G white cedar harvested in Pompey

Framing on the bay window

framing on the bay window, looking into the beginnings of the chimney

Framing on bay window as it interfaces with the timber frame

Bay window area with the windows installed

Bay window area with scaffolding

Framing on the interior of the bedroom

Ceiling of the first floor is finished with maple harvested from our home in Pompey

First floor with completed chimney and Lucie on the mezzanine

Front door is finally installed with the Emtek latch kit

The emtek front door latch

The siding begins to creep around the house and onto the porch

Another shot of the front porch; the large crate left of the door is the boiler

The Hut enclosed in plywood; the building finally begins to take form

The Hut enclosed in plywood, seen from the front

Jack tries a mockup of the stairs that Steve built

Jim standing on the back porch before the floor was installed

We set up a temporary camp in the meadow dubbed "Mosquito Camp" for obvious reasons

The Hut is stained dark brown (as required by our APA permit)

The large boulders are to receive the porch posts

One of the boulders that will act as a support for a porch post

The timber frame of the roof system

Two types of siding are used -- red cedar shingles and red cedar clapboard

View of the dix range from the bay window

Looking out the bay window from within the great room

Looking at the bay window area from the second floor prior to the chimney

Looking into the bedroom from the outside

The completed drainage system for the outdoor shower

Head on view of the Hut; the trim and flooring are stored under blue tarps on the porch

Another view of the Hut from the side

The first snow on the Hut

Air intake of the chimney

Wood support for the fireplace opening archway

The arch of the fireplace opening, with the wood support in place

Stonework on the left side of the fireplace arch

Keystone in the fireplace arch

Fireplace arch with firebrick in the back

Completed fireplace opening; Mark in the background

Completed fireplace opening; Mark and Lucie in the background

Chimney with scaffolding, just before breaking through the roof

Chimney with scaffolding, just before breaking through the roof

Chimney from the mezzanine with the fan airspace and wood stove flue

Completed chimney

Another shot of the completed chimney

Another shot of the completed chimney

Chimney from the mezzanine with the temporary ridge pole support still in place

Chimney from the mezzanine with the fan airspace and wood stove flue

Closeup of the rocks in the chimney at the mezzanine level

Stones gathered from the property for the chimney

More stones gathered from the property for the chimney

Staging area for stones gathered from the property for the chimney

Closeup of a few stones

Staging area for the chimney stones as seen from the roof

Exterior scaffolding for building the chimney above the roof

Closeup of the stonework around the cubby in the kitchen

Closeup of the stonework below the hearth

Chimney in the kitchen galley

Chimney at about the 6' level

Stonework around the cubby in the kitchen

Stonework around the air intake

Stonework around the wood storage cubby

Stonework around the air intake and wood storage cubby

Closeup of embedded river stones

Another closeup of embedded river stones

Stonework on the left side of the wood storage cubby

Stonework on the right side of the wood storage cubby

Carefully fit stones in the chimney

Stonework in the kitchen galley near the floor

Taking a rest after collecting chimney stones from the property

Metal air intake vents in the fireplace box

Fireplace box from above

The timber frame is supported at 5 positions by the chinney. To do so, the chimney had to be built around the free-floating members, then the temporary supports removed.

The hole has been cut into the ceiling to allow for the chimney

Jim and Jack load equipment onto the flatbed for transport to the Hut; this equipment was used to collect stones for the chimney from the property

Mark cleans out the joints between the stones

Mark's diamond saw

Mark grinds the edge off a stone to achieve a proper fit

Mark begins the chimney

Round stones from the Boquet gathered for use in the chimney

The collection of round stones gathered from the river for use in the chimney

The crew that did the initial gathering of stones for the chimney

Staging area for the chimney stones

Bales of cellulose await loading into the hopper

The bay window with all the surrounding maple paneling completed

The bedroom has two closets, each paneled with maple. We used the maple with the most defects for this job.

The completed paneling in the bedroom

Another view of the completed paneling in the bedroom

The cherry paneling had to be scribed where it met with the maple ceiling, since the maple ceiling was warped and cupped due to moisture damage

A view of the bedroom closet with the new canister lights installed on the ceiling above

The first flooring was laid near the chimney in the kitchen

Leslie inspects the hickory flooring

New canister lights in the great room

New canister lights in the bedroom

The toilet closet was paneled with cherry scraps down low and maple up higher

The cherry paneling in the bedroom was scribed around each oak rafter

Up close and personel with the cherry paneling in the bedroom

The completed insulation job in the bathroom. Cellulose was blown into the various cavities in the exterior wall.

Careful work by Skip the electrician

The first window extension jamb and sill installation in the bathroom

Another window with a completed extension jamb

The extension jamb on the triangular window

The hickory floor was carefully scribed around the stonework of the chimney

The chumney hearth showing the careful scribe work on the flooring

Closeup of the floor around the hearth

I installed cherry flooring on the ceiling above the bedroom closet; this flooring was extra from our house construction 15 years ago

More flooring around the side of the chimney

More flooring around the side of the chimney

More flooring around the side of the chimney

Side of the great room from the loft

The great room and chimney with the scaffolding

Green board installed in the shower

The interior bedroom wall was insulated, both for sound proofing and to shut off part of the house in the winter

Johnny finishes the final corner of flooring in the bedroom

Katey helps break up the cellulose bales as they enter the hopper

The bathroom wall prominently displays a natural knot in the maple

The maple flooring in the loft, partially completed

Lucie sands the front door; for some reason, the door was delivered with black mold on the lower half

The paneling (maple) and trip (cedar) in the dressing room, all from scraps left over from our basement project

The wall paneling was carefully installed around the braces of the frame

Paneling in the bathroom, partially complete

Paneling in the hallway and utility area

Completed paneling in the bathroom, wide angle view

Paneling in-progress in the great room

Paneling in-progress in the great room

Paneling in the loft just after it was completed

Paneling in the loft just after it was completed

The panels in the peak of the roof needed to be assembled in advance, then slide up behind the post-and-beam structure using a sledge hammer

Schelly emerges from the Hut just after a session with the insulation blower

Schelly cuts flooring on the chop saw

A nasty job, Schelly blows insulation into the bathroom wall

The bedroom before the closet was paneled

The wood stove prior to installation

The wood stove with its first fire

The wood stove and pipe, just after installation

Fisheye view of the toilet closet

The first window to be completed with its trim, in this case, walnut wood

Fisheye view of the bedroom and closets

Fisheye view of the bedroom, ready for the floor sander

Fisheye view of the bedroom, ready for the floor sander

Great room cleared of tools and ready for the floor sander

Great room cleared of tools and ready for the floor sander

The great room with the doors stacked against the wall

Looking at the bay window from the loft

Bathroom hallway

The chimney and gear room

Countertop made of Adirondack granite (in the Cold Springs Granite showroom)

An outdoor shower is installed on the west side of the Hut, providing us early access to water

The outdoor shower is made of rough copper piping, well suited to the look-and-feel of the Hut

Pressure tank in the utility room

A temporary toilet is installed for the crew

There is a dug well with a concrete top. This has since been raised another 4 feet.

In the spring, there was 9' of water in the well

A model of the underfloor heating system used under the wood floor

The floor of the outdoor shower is a pit, lined with plastic and filled with river stones

The outdoor shower is drained to the hillside using PVC pipe left over from the septic installation

The floor of the outdoor shower is drained via PVC pipe to the hillside

The drain pipe is covered with mesh to prevent animals from taking up shop

Plumbing a la Mike Morris and Sons

Bob on the roof, preparing it for the roof panels

A large crew is required to lift the 10" stress skin panels onto the roof

The roof is finally installed -- 24 guage standing seam, double lock, Hartford green

The new roof

The new roof from the northwest with cutouts for the kitchen exhaust, boiler, and septic vent

The pile of 10" stress skin for use on the roof

Adam trims the "Adirondack Palm Tree"

Adam saws off his lanyard (not)

Large bucket on the excavator

Forms for the footer

South side of the foundation -- forms for the footer

Excavation crew dumping sand, then moving it into the foundation

Sheehan's excavator with its enormous bucket

Back filling the foundation with sand

Back filling the foundation with sand

Foundation as seen from the front of the hut as the excavation crew pack sand into the interior

View of the foundation from the west. The large concrete box in the center is the foundation for the chimney; the smaller free-standing piers are for posts in the timber frame.

Jim digs the trench for the phone cable on a hot, sweaty day

Jim measures the Hut site

Jim chips branches cleared from the view

John consults with the representative from the power company

The new driveway; the box on the right is the transformer

The excavation crew packs the sand with a tamping machine

A man from the power company repairs the transformer

The building site for the Hut before any work

Crane at the site before the raising

Looking south from the virgin site; stakes and ropes mark the locations of the building

The site layout occurred when the site was still snow covered; a sled was used to transport equipment to the site

The beginning of work on the concrete footers

Overview of the hole before the foundation

Another overview of the hole before the foundation

The view from the bay window

Mark and his brother Phil cement the floor stones into position

The stone floor is laid out dry; the joints between the floor stones are filled with small river pebbles

The stone floor after everything has been leveled and cemented into place; several of the pebble fillers are done as well

The completed stone floor before the sealer is applied

The stone floor after sealing: one of the pebble sections

The stone floor as seen from the bathroom door

Another pebble section in the floor; the pebbles were collected by hand from the Boquet River

Several more pebble sections in the stone floor

Pebble sections in the stone floor

The finished (and sealed) stone floor

The finished (and sealed) stone floor as seen from the bathroom door

The stone flooring, still in its palletes

Jim holds the temporary brace as the others lower the ridge pole into position

Steve's timber framing shop

Closeup of timbers on the back porch

Bag of webbing uses by the Amstutz crew in assembling the frame

The bottom of the posts are sealed before placing them on the metal brackets

Up close and personal with the braces

Bucket of dowels used hold the joints together

Calvin prepares a mortise in the shop

Calvin drills a hole for a dowel

Calvin uses giant orange hammer to wack something into place

Calvin working in the shop on the timbers

Carpenter butt

Clamping the floor section to the door section

Mike climbs the door section

Colin pushes scaffolding onto the second floor

Colin messing around with the giant hammer, Kevin in the background

Comealongs used to hold up sections of the frame during the raising

Another comealong

Nifty joinery in the timber frame

More cool joinery in the timber frame

Cool spline holds together a complex joint in the timber frame

Boom of the crane during the raising

Crane hook flies through the air

Hook of the crane

Crane moves a load of timbers off the delivery truck

Calvin cuts a dowel to make room for the ridge pole

Dennis can't resist climbing onto the ridge pole after the raising

Skethcy traversing on the ridge pole

Doug and Nancy locate the metal brackets on which the posts rest

Doug and Nancy locate the metal brackets on which the posts rest

Doug and Nancy prep the floor section before it is raised into position

Doug working with a clamp during the raising

Doug cuts a dowel to length

The crane operator directing traffic

Doug preps beams for the crane

Practiced hands perform the delicate work of moving timbers into place

Practiced hands perform the delicate work of moving timbers into place

Cutting dowels to length

More trimming of dowels

Drills sit idle

Preparing a large section of the timber frame for lifting by the crane

The timber frame without the rafters and ridge pole

Framing on the mezzanine floor

Section of the mezzanine floor before it was moved into place with the crane

The crew prepares to receive the ridge pole

Various bents ready to be raised

The timber frame, about 1/3 completed

The first large bents has just been moved into position

The completed timber frame is surrounded by stick-built 2x6 walls

Steve and Doug preparing for the first large bent

Porch posts partially completed

Front porch framing as seen from the front door

The completed front porch -- 2x4 T&G white cedar floor, 2x6 T&G white cedar ceiling, cedar posts, and pine timber framing

Completed front porch, seen from the west

Completed front porch; the yellow wire is for a hanging lantern

Completed front porch, seen from the east

Front porch posts temporarily held in place

Front porch, incomplete, left side

Completed front porch seen from the north with the large columns resting on boulders moved from elsewhere on the property

Front porch seen from the front (north)

Front porch seen from the west; there is a hole where the chinney will soon appear through the roof

Another view of the front porch from the west

View showing the ceiling of the front porch

Front porch posts demonstrating the careful scribing where the posts meet the rock

Crew members prepare the floor section to be raised into position

Amstutz's shop with Jack making a phone call while Calvin works

Jim and Lucie during the raising

Jim and Tommy watch the frame raising

Jim holds up a brace -- one of the few jobs I could do

Jim does nothing, waiting orders

Jim connects the strapping to the crane

Jim spots the post as it's moved across the site

Jim positions a post onto a metal plate on the foundation

A post is positioned, making sure that the brace and horizontal member are fit at the same time

Jim prepares the straps for lifting a member

Jim helping out from the heights

Moving about the timber frame is easy for climbers

Jim tries to be helpful, but probably is getting in the way

Trimming a dowel to the correct length

Pounding a dowel into place to hold a joint together

Joe and Tommy climb around on the completed frame

The "climbers" help position the scaffolding

Kevin holds a brace in position while a post is slid into position

Kevin clamps a strongback onto a joint to provide lateral strength during lifting

The crew getting started with the raising; Steve is dealing with an issue where the iron rods in the foundation are mispositioned

Carpenter's level

Four strong backs are required to move a rafter subsection

Continuing to move the rafter subsection, Doug comes to help

Continuing to move the rafter subsection, Doug helps, Jou and Doug watch

The very first frame subsection raised into postion -- the king posts around the front door

A bucket of comealongs

A bucket of tension straps

Lucie and Jim on raising day -- all done

Lunch on raising day

A mallet

A mallet and chisel

Tools lay about on the site

Killer drills

Mike positions a post with a spline

Mike measures something

Mike installs a temporary shim

A minor ridge pole is lowers into position

Mike gets aggressive with the orange mallet

The tenon slides into position in its mortise

Steve and Jim move rafters around

Nancy planes the end of a post

Doug guides a horizontal member into place onto a spline

A large subsection of rafters is lifted by crane and positioned around the chimney opening

Richard and Tom guide the rafters into position

The first ridge pole is moved into position

The first bent is moved into position

A post flies through space

Bits of the timber frame are assembled on the ground before being raised

Setting up the straps and comealong in order to pull together the two bents

Doug coats the end grain of a post with preservative

Raising the final bent

The final bent, a little higher

The final bent now flies through the air

The final bent is lowered into position

The finished frame

A closeup of the raising crew

Another view of the finished frame and crew

The red oak used in our timber frame, just after delivery from Rhode Island

Raw material in the Amstutz shop

Richard attaches a comealong to pull sections of the frame together

Pile of sawdust generated during the raising

Amstutz's heavy-duty sawhorses

Closeup of the scribe work of the left porch post

Scribe work of the left porch post

The front ridge pole is positioned in place

Another view of the front ridge pole being installed

All hands on deck for the second ridge pole

Securing the second bent

The stairwell; no stairs yet, as this is one of the last things to be installed

Steve cleans the debris from a mortise

Monir adjustments are made to a tenon to ensure a proper fit

Steve uses a small tractor to move timbers around his yard and shop

Joe and Steve prepare the rafter subsections that surround the chimney

Steve and Mike oversee the movement of member

Steve and Mike slide the roof truss together

Steve inspects a mortise before fitting together the mating members

The crane ball is moved into position by Steve

Steve uses superhuman strength to casually move a 300 pound post; Kevin looks on in awe

Steve does his thing

Steve positions a brace as a complicated joint comes together

Just before the joint comes together

Steve hands something up to Jim

Steve straps and Kevin clamps -- preparing to move a section of timber frame with the crane

Steve applies straps to a frame section to move with the crane

Straps on frame bits

Timber frame bits in Steve's shop

Braces in Amstutz's shop

Lots of timber frame bits await installation

More timber frame bits

More timber frame bits

The entire Hut frame, sitting in storage awaiting installation

The timber frame is partially built on the ground prior to the raising

The timber frame is partially built on the ground prior to the raising; Lucie sits in the middle

Tommy working during the raising

Taking a break from the action

Working during the raising

A small hand-made toolbox

Signaling the crane operator to lift using non-standard signals

Giant mallets

Cherry log, just after being dropped; a fine specimen

Beginning a cut on a virgin maple log

Partway through a cut on a virgin maple log

Once the log is squared, many planks can be quickly cut

Beginning a cut on a cherry log

Closeup of the band saw blade cutting a maple log

Another view of Dan on his portable band mill, Doug in the background

Erin and Zack watch the band mill

Erin and Zack skid an enormous cherry log

Erin and Dan discuss the ongoing milling operation

Arty shot of a stack of maple with the stickers running horizontally

The staging area for milling operations -- the barn. Snow is removed to make way for more skidding

Frozen maple logs waiting to be milled

Maple logs look good -- no rot in the middle

Lots of maple logs in the skidding area

Maple board drying in the barn; drying racks are built from ropes run across the width of the barn

Hundreds of boards are dried at a time

Lucie working hard on preparing the maple

The finished maple ceiling; we're very excited to see our maple in use

The finished maple ceiling; the strings are to locate the chimney

Another shot of the maple ceiling and red oak timber frame

A pile of rough-sawn maple stacked in the barn during milling

A pile of 12 foot rough-sawn maple

Erin and his son Zack move a large maple log onto the portable band mill

A large tarp was erected to allow spraying of the maple board in the rain

Another view of the spraying tent

Zack skids a beautiful cherry log down the road

Tinkers Falls (map)

Jim TRing at Tinkers Falls
Main Falls

The unnamed thin column at Tinkers
The Pencil

A little early for ice

Leading a possible first ascent of a dangerous column at Tinkers
The Pencil

Series 1: Stepping up to the column
Trinity

Series 2: Getting the tools as high as possible without damaging the column
Trinity

Series 4: A heel hook allows one to move in balance
Trinity

Series 5: Using the mono points in the holes prepared in advance with an axe
Trinity

Series 6: Working the feet up, again without damaging the column; at this point, one can chimney against the column behind
Trinity

Series 7: Once up high enough, screws are placed
Trinity

Series 8: At the top of the pillar, a good stance allows one to place good protection
Trinity

Series 9: Moving leftwards through the hanging pillars
Trinity

Series 10: Simeon follows
Trinity

The shape of Trinity earlier in the season; it took an extended cold spell to enable the column to touch down and thicken
Trinity

The reliable pillar to the left of the main waterfall

Series 3: Carefully moving up the column
Trinity

Tokyo (Japan) (map)

What to do when it's raining in Tokyo

Tres Piedras (map)

Tres Piedras as seen from the road

Waiting out more rain

Our beautiful campsite at the trailhead

Starting up an unknown (but good) route in the Beastie Alley
Unknown

One of Colin's first trad leads; real juggy with good pro
Mama Jugs

Walking off Mosaic Rock

View from the top of the rocks, looking towards Taos

Tsavo (Kenya) (map)

We saw this leopard on our drive through Tsavo West

Cool lizard

Hippo with bird

Acacia trees; the vegetation here is very thick, making good cover for animals and bad for safaris

Red elephants (actually, just normal elephants covered in red soil) and a small baby elephant

Another view of the leopard we saw

These corners are known as Elephant Rocks. The route we climbed goes up between the two huge corners.

Chris poses with the corporal's weapon, about 40 lbs

Chris arrives at the P2 belay
Ivory Corner

Every time I wanted to take a photo, the corporal would point as if giving instruction

View from our approach to Elephant Rocks

During a break in the drive, Gitau repairs the engine

Some final sandy pits are crossed before we find a suitable camp site

Super dense jungle on the approach to our camp site

Chris asking for directions and explaining what we're doing. Rock climbing seemed very foreign to the locals.

Chris and Corporal Bulge look around for a suitable place to camp…preferable not next to the river where all the big game are

Corporal Bulge shows Chris the fresh lion tracks; we're not gonna camp here

Forest canopy above our tents

Adjusting the hat for the photo

Jim and the Corporal examine the fresh hippo tracks near the camp site

The lower summit of Kitchwa Tembo. We climbed the highest rock formation on the left.

Another view of Kitchwa Tembo

The ridgeline has endless opportunities for climbing

Our camp below Kitchwa Tembo

The approach to the east face of Kitchwa Tembo was some of the thickest bushwhacking I've done. Afterwards, I threw my pants and socks into the garbage.

More bushwhacking

The approach was harder than the climbing…at least more effort

Finally up at the col, we can start our climb up the large obvious spire
Covenant

We soloed the ridge up to the base of the final spire, about 5.5 or so
Covenant

At the base of the final spire, Chris pulls the vegetation away from the mouth of the chimney
Covenant

Chris arrives at the top of the chimney. This feature was unprotected for more than 100', and about 5.7 in difficulty.
Covenant

On the summit
Covenant

Rappelling ths chimney on the descent
Covenant

On the descent, we swam across the opening of this crevass, fully supported by cactus and other vegetation
Covenant

Thick jungle on the approach

Displaying the skin of a cobra

Serious heat and not enough water
Covenant

Approaching the summit
Covenant

On the road south out of Nairobi; this section was especially bad

Our truck broke down just about every time we drove anywhere; this is the first of many repairs

One of a thousand breakdowns alongside the road

Crowded shops alongside the road

Our second breakdown delayed us getting to the Tsavo entrance; we entered the park after dark as a result

More breakdowns on a modest hill; complete engine overhauls going on

Crowded truck traffic on the Mombasa Road

Tuolumne (map)

John reaching the first belay on West Crack
West Crack

Jim low down on Phobos
Phobos

John climbing the first pitch, Jim belaying from above
Phobos

At the belay on Dixie Peach, 5.9 (photo taken by Tad from South Crack)
Dixie Peach

Utica (map)

Finishing up the Boilermaker

Vail (map)

The Fang in fat (but very wet) conditions
The Fang

The Fang and Rigid Designator from the highway
The Fang

Labeled routes -- The Fang and Rigid Designator from the highway
The Fang

Fanni stands around while Nikos and Jim get changed in the road
The Fang

The Fang and the Frigid Inseminator
The Fang

Jim leading the crux, 5+ conditions
The Fang

Venice (Italy) (map)

Canals in Venice

Narrow canals in Venice

Vermont (map)

Lucie cuttin' an edge

Vilcanota (Peru) (map)

Horses crossing the stream

Martin's homemade anti-bot plates

Base camp for Auzangate

High camp on Auzangate
East Face

Dawn from above 6000m on Auzangate
East Face

Descending from the high point on Auzangate
East Face

High point on the ridge on Auzangate
East Face

Resting above the headwall
East Face

Loading the horses at base camp

Martin at the high point on Auzangate
East Face

Martin nearing the high point on Auzangate
East Face

Jim, rapping off the headwall on Auzangate
East Face

Simeon at the high point on Auzangate
East Face

Simeon and Eric crossing a snow bridge above 6000m
East Face

Eating soup at high camp
East Face

Topping out on the headwall
East Face

Lois perched on an island of moss on the way back to Tinqui

View from the top of the headwall at dawn, mountains labeled

Summit of Campa
North Face

Closer to Campa Pass; looking at Ccapana, Pachanta, and Jatunhuma (in the distance)

Approaching Campa Pass, looking at Ccapana, Pachanta

Approaching Campa Pass with the mountains labeled

Passing through Jampa on our way to Auzangate base camp

Breakfast on the trek

Camp above the lake, drying out tents

On the hike up to high camp on Mariposa
East Face

Mariposa from high up on Auzangate

Mariposa high camp

Little girl wandered into base camp near Pachanta

Tres Amigos near Pachanta

Lois wearing a traditional hat

View looking back at Campa Pass (on the left) and the lakes of Ticllacocha

Labeled view of the Ticllacocha area

Alpaca

Simeon in need of a wash

Woman spinning wool

Apolinar and Martin (dressed as the president) at the hotel in Tinqui

Weighing the lamb for dinner

Wawa Gorge (Philippines) (map)

Wawa Gorge is a popular spot for swimmers and picnickers

Random jeepney, nicely decorated

Simeon nears the belay on Tofu, one of the dirtiest climbs I've ever climbed
Tofu

Climbing through the crux slab using small finger pockets
Redemption

Whitney Portal (map)

Mt. Whitney, as seen from our campsite
 

Colin sketches on top of the bear-proof storage box

Michelle finally arrives at the campsite after an epic trip

Eating lunch at The Beach

Slippery friction; our first route at Whitney Portal
Banana Hammock

We all got a taste of 5.9 friction…yikes!
Lizard King

More 5.9 friction
Manta Ray

Hiking to the crags around Whitney Portal involves some portion of the Mt. Whitney trail, which is where we're standing

Whitney Portal Buttress, much larger than it looks

Colin belays Tommy on P5 while Michelle snacks
No Country for Old Men

Super happy, finally a pitch for short people; I found this pitch desperate
No Country for Old Men

The undercling pitch
No Country for Old Men

P5 of the route goes into the mountain, inside the obvious opening
No Country for Old Men

Nice rope management
No Country for Old Men

Tommy follows the undercling pitch with a full pack of gear, no less
No Country for Old Men

Colin emerges from the P5 chimney
No Country for Old Men

Taking a nap after the big whipper
No Country for Old Men

At the P5 belay, happy to be bailing
No Country for Old Men

Belaying at the top of P5
No Country for Old Men

Wild Iris (map)

Little red potatos…swollen fingers with very little pad remaining

Wind swept plateau on the approach to the Main Wall

Approaching the Main Wall

Approaching the Main Wall

Approaching the Main Wall early season

Standing on a large boulder at the high end of the Main Wall

Single finger monos are common on routes here…even the easy ones
Latex Cowboy

Big jugs down low makde this one approachable
Stacked Deck

Big jugs down low makde this one approachable
Stacked Deck

Climbing a flake on a freezing cold day
Red Ryder

Wind Rivers (map)

Approach to Cirque of the Towers

Pingora and the Cirque after a storm

Camping in the alpine meadows of the Cirque of the Towers

Yangshuo (China) (map)

Country scenery

Buffalo and woman crossing a dam on the way to Crag X

Cow as seen on the way to Crag X

Bunch of ducks on the back of a motorcycle

Jim crossing the dam on the way back from Crag X

Jim on mountain bike in Chinese countryside

Jim on mountain bike in Chinese countryside

Jim on mountain bike in Chinese countryside

On the way to the crag

Passing a small village on the way to the crag

Typical form of transportation

Restaurant where we ate breakfast

Eric returning from a day of climbing

Returning from a day at the crag using local transportation

Some crag, no routes!

Little village on the way to Crag X

View of Yangshuo and surrounding countryside from Moon Hill

View of Yangshuo and surrounding countryside

Typical transport in the countryside of Yangshuo; a cross between a tractor, and ATV, and a pick-up. Note the exposed fly-wheel in the front.

High up on an unnamed Skinner route (5.11d)
Unknown

Close-up of Jim high up on an unnamed Skinner route (5.11d)
Unknown

Big Banyan Park

Jim climbing a hard Skinner route
Unknown

Jim climbing a hard Skinner route
Unknown

Hanging out at the base of Banyon Tree

Crag X

Crag X from a distance

Jim pumping through the overhang
Da Fe Ji

Eric at the belay after his second lead ever
Da Pi Gu

Jim on Xin Jiang Black
Xin Jiang Black

Jim high on Crag X
Xin Jiang Black

Climbers on the way to Crag X

View from Crag X of the surrounding farms

James leading the 5.10a next to the arch (easiest route at Moon Hill)
Unknown

James trying something way too hard
Unknown

Jim, lowering through the arch from the "easiest route at Moon Hill"
Unknown

Close up view of Moon Hill

Moon Hill from a distance

Climbing a route that's too hard
Unknown

The easiest route at Moon Hill, just right of the arch
Unknown

View from Moon Hill

Jim standing beneath the arch on Moon Hill

At the second belay on Happy New Year
Happy New Year

View from the second pitch of Happy Near Year
Happy New Year

View from the second pitch of Happy Near Year
Happy New Year

Jim, worried, at the second belay
Happy New Year

Jim, happy, at the second belay
Happy New Year

Rappelling from the second pitch of Happy Near Year
Happy New Year

Thumb Peak with some Chinese climbers establishing a new line (they are barely visible)
Happy New Year

View from the second pitch of Happy Near Year
Happy New Year

Thumb Peak with the Happy New Year route
Happy New Year

Thumb Peak with the Happy New Year route
Happy New Year

Topo of Happy New Year
Happy New Year

Yokohama (Japan) (map)

High technology meets the toilet

Yosemite (map)

The Big Stone (black and white)

Climbing a great layback flake in the Valley

The Big Stone

Yosemite Falls

Yosemite Valley at sunrise

Bird wishing for larger gear for the 3" crack
Bishop's Terrace

Bird smiling for the camera
Bishop's Terrace

Jim following the famous layback pitch of Wheat Thin
Wheat Thin

The crux of Wheat Thin -- getting into the crack
Wheat Thin

Jim with the massive Cathedral Rocks in the background
Nutcracker

Leading the beautiful finger crack of La Cosita
La Cosita

Jim nearing the top of the first pitch of Moby Dick
Moby Dick

Jim on the final roof of Commitment
Commitment

Jim at a rappel station on Marginal
Marginal

Jim following the second pitch of Central Pillar of Frenzy
Central Pillar of Frenzy

Jim and the Nose
East Buttress

Seeley at the top of the fifth pitch
East Buttress

Low down on the East Buttress
East Buttress

Leading the aid pitch on the East Buttress
East Buttress

The endless walk down from the top of North Dome, after climbing the South Face
South Face

Uncomfortable belay on the South Face
South Face

Leading the awesome crack pitch, Reed's Pinnacle Direct
Reed's Pinnacle Direct

Gearing up at the base of Reed's Pinnacle
Reed's Pinnacle Direct

Jim starts up the next pitch while Eric organizes gear
Royal Arches

Tracy prepares for the A0 pendulum; Eric waits his turn
Royal Arches

Tracy belays Jim on Royal Arches
Royal Arches