Slideshow (155 photos)

Adirondacks (map)

Unknown: Climbing a pillar on the east side of Avalanche Pass before one reaches the lake; the climb is broken into two parts -- the initial pillar to a ledge, then a rock overhang


Posing on the lake after completing Killer Whale


Laceration: Tommy leading the steep ice smear of Laceration


Reunion: Tommy leads the thin lower face that leads to the cave


Reunion: After getting gear in the rock cave, Tommy climbs the crux column


Artificial Gravity: Tommy starts the crux pitch of Artificial Gravity; the pillar on the right side is Power Play


Artificial Gravity: At the top, the ice overhangs; the route finishes by mounting the free-hanging pillar to the right


Rhiannon: The Big Brother wall in fat conditions; Big Brother is on the broken ice column on the left, Tommy is on Rhiannon, and Lilith is on the far right. On the orange wall just right of Tommy is the free-hanging column called Not Likely


Reunion: The cave is exited using an ice host that drips on the face to the left; the strip of ice on the right is Laceration


The Fecalator: Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator


The Fecalator: Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator


Left of Passage: Tom climbing around the chockstone on the direct start of Left of Passage


Here Come the Pigs: Tom leading the first ascent at Pharaoh Mt.


Tom posing at the base of his new route

Waterfall: Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead


Waterfall: Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead


Mechanical Hydraulic Control: Tom seconding the corner left of Fear of Gravity


Your Anus: Tom getting a rest after squeezing through the crux on Your Anus


Tom and Nona having dessert in the kitchen after a day of ice climbing


Polar Soldier: Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier


Polar Soldier: Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier

Alabama Hills (map)

Pangborn: Starting up Pangborn, one of the longer routes at the Hills

Pangborn: Dancing up the face

Pangborn: Looking like an ant on the face, Tommy runs up the endless plates to the anchor

Call of the Canyon: Old school Tommy sport climbing…yeah boy!

Call of the Canyon: Resting at a good handhold

Call of the Canyon: Resting at a good handhold

Alimosa River Canyon (map)

Parking in the boulder field in front of the crag


Making shadows at sunset


Unknown: Following an awesome hand crack

Angel Falls (map)

Rapping the largest waterfall, Big Angel; there are a bunch of route possibilities here

Unknown: The easier line at Little Angel

Unknown: Going through a small, unprotected roof

Unknown: Clearing the roof

Preparing to climb Little Angel

Rapping Little Angel; we led two routes here, one directly under the rappeller, and one to the right

Avalanche Gulch (map)

The Fire Spire: Colin follows the first pitch, belayed from above by Tom, just before a major storm hit


The Fire Spire: Tommy and Colin gearing up at the base of the spire


The Fire Spire: Tom leading the first pitch of the spire

Beartooth Mountains (map)

East Ridge: Tom hiking towards the Bear's Tooth


East Ridge: Tom on the 4th class slabs just below the south face of the Bear's Tooth spire

Beaver Creek (map)

Batteries Not Included: Gearing up at the base of the route


Fording the stream to get to the Eye of the Needle formation; very cold


Batteries Not Included: Tom leading P1, slightly off route. The "eye" after which the formation is named is visible above him.


Batteries Not Included: Colin and Tommy at the belay in front of the "eye"

Blue Cloud Spires (map)

Book of Payne: Tommy climbs the excellent corner crack on the Jedi Wall

Castle Rocks (map)

Hanging out in the van at a City of Rocks campsite

Hiking around Castle Rock

Red Rib: Starting out on Red Rib, which I thought was pretty hard for the grade

Mantel Dynamics: The most over bolted route on the planet, we had to back clean draws to make it to the top

Sleeping under an overhanging wall, waiting out the rain

City of Rocks (map)

Animal Cracker: Tommy shows his stuff at the start of Animal Cracker


Animal Cracker: Tommy approaches the offwidth section

Tommy and Michelle drinking…how about a beer?


The Pygmies Got Stoned: Tommy and Michelle show off their hair


The Pygmies Got Stoned: Contemplating the next move

Sabbatical: Tommy belays Jim on Sabbatical

Intruding Dike: Tommy and Michelle climbing in the cold morning wind

Cody (map)

Mean Green: Jim climbs the first pitch (WI4) of Mean Green, belayed by Tommy; the second pitch can be seen above

Mean Green: Joe climbs the crux pitch of Mean Green (WI5), belayed by Tommy

Columbus (map)

Tom showing off his new hand plane


Tommy and Joe wait for their laundry


Chowing down in the "Mother Ship"

East Rosebud (map)

The Ramp: Topping out on The Ramp -- the top of the 5.9 variation on pitch 5


The Ramp: At the top of the first pitch of The Ramp


Sand Dune Falls: Tommy and Joe take a rest at the base of Sand Dune Falls; unfortunately, the bottom portion of the route was missing -- she no go

Returning from a failed attempt at Sand Dune Falls

Golden, Colorado (map)

Nikos, Fanni, and Tom standing on driveway discussing routes


The morning after the big bash…everyone is drinking water to treat the hangover

Hellgate Gulch (map)

Uncomfortably Numb: Tommy sending at Hellgate (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)


Aimless wandering through the compact canyon, trying to identify things (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Uncomfortably Numb: Tommy sending at Hellgate (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

Hyalite (map)

Taking a rest on the approach to Cleopatra's Needle and Twin Falls


Cleopatra's Needle: Reaching for a screw on the second pitch (WI5)


Cleopatra's Needle: Tommy stays dry by climbing the right side of the pillar

Independence Pass (map)

Rad Lad: Tommy struggles with the first crux on Rad Lad


The Mother Load: Tom and Mioara huddled at the second belay on The Mother Load


The Mother Load: Tom leads the final pitch

Want some beans?

Kama Bay (Canada) (map)

Whimpsickle: Tommy climbs poor ice at bottom third of Whimpsickle; this climb is anything but whimpy, as we found it to be one of the harder routes we climbed

Lake Willoughby (map)

Called on Account of Rains: Tom and Simeon at the cave belay on top of the first pitch


Called on Account of Rains: Leading the thin ice on the first pitch of Called; the route steepens just above, then stretches the rope to the cave visible beneath a hanging pillar on the right


Called on Account of Rains: Tommy takes the right-hand line of ice on the top pitch


Called on Account of Rains: Tommy takes the right-hand line of ice on the top pitch

Nelson Rocks (map)

The Cabins at Nelson


Crossing the bridge on the via ferrata


Rappelling to the climbs at Nelson Rocks

New River Gorge (map)

Tad and Tommy show off their massive arms


Triple Treat: A hard .10a, Triple Treat packs a punch at the roof

Orient Bay (Canada) (map)

10% Real: A real classic of the area, Tommy climbs 10% Real early in the season; the crux starts just below Tommy's feet


10% Real: A little higher on the crux


10% Real: Higher up, Tommy stems onto the left wall that has just enough ice to support such a maneuver


10% Real: The climb angles back briefly, then steepens up once again for a second crux


Parallax: Tommy climbs the steep upper section of the free-hanging icicle


Cascade Falls: Tommy climbs Cascade Falls on the right -- many lines can be climbed on this massive piece of ice, from WI3 to WI4


Obsession: Tommy climbs the steep pillar at the top of Obsession; smart climbers (not us) belay at bolts on the left low on the route, then climb the route in one pitch instead of breaking the pitch at the place where this picture is taken

Owens River Gorge (map)

Checking out the view on the way into the Gorge

Welcome to the Gorge: Near the start, and pretty slippery

Penetente Canyon (map)

May Be Nueve: Mioara climbs the final crack to the anchor


Tommy reaches the anchors on Captain America; Mioara belays below


Tanks for the Hueco: Tommy cranks up the huecos at the top of the route

Pinecliffe (map)

Crescent Moon: Tommy poses for the camera below the crux


Unknown: Tom leading out of the cave during rainy weather


Waiting out some rain


Unknown: Tommy climbing an overhanging, juggy route

Salmon River Falls (map)

Mate, Spawn, and Die: Tommy gets ready to lead the class Mate, Spawn, and Die


Mate, Spawn, and Die: Tommy finds fat ice on Mate, Spawn, and Die

Play it Again, Salmon: Tommy runs it out over the initial section


Play it Again, Salmon: About half way up, Tommy heads slightly left to gain a rest between the columns

Play it Again, Salmon: Spectacular climbing on the 100' free standing ice column

Play it Again, Salmon: Chris belays Tommy while he places a screw

Shawangunks (map)

MF: Close-up of Tom clearing the second crux on MF, pitch 1


The gang hanging out at the base of Turdland

MF: Tom clearing the second crux on MF, pitch 1

Sheep Mountain (map)

Standard Route: Clipping the bolt at the start of the route


Standard Route: Unlocking the crux sequence to gain the crack system


Standard Route: Stemming high on the route

Standard Route: Relaxing on top of Devil's Thumb

Shelf Road (map)

B/C: Tommy nears the top of this fine, juggy route


B/C: Close-up of Tommy on B/C

South Platte (map)

Center Route: Tommy leads the first pitch (5.8) of Center Route; the second pitch ends below the large triangular roof above


The Standard: Lee works his way through the crux flakes at the start of The Standard; Mioara and Tommy start up another route in the foreground

Deception Past: Stemming into the crux corner


Deception Past: Higher in the corner, Tommy contemplates a gear placement

Deception Past: Clipping the #1 Camalot


Deception Past: After making the crux moves, Tommy looks down for the camera

Deception Past: Reaching the belay on the first pitch of Deception Past


Preparing breakfast; keg in the background


Early morning breakfast before heading out to Wigwam

The Hut (map)

Jim holds the temporary brace as the others lower the ridge pole into position


Calvin uses giant orange hammer to wack something into place


Preparing a large section of the timber frame for lifting by the crane


The crew prepares to receive the ridge pole


The timber frame, about 1/3 completed


Jim and Tommy watch the frame raising


Joe and Tommy climb around on the completed frame


The "climbers" help position the scaffolding


A minor ridge pole is lowers into position


A large subsection of rafters is lifted by crane and positioned around the chimney opening


Richard and Tom guide the rafters into position


The first ridge pole is moved into position


Setting up the straps and comealong in order to pull together the two bents


The finished frame


A closeup of the raising crew


Another view of the finished frame and crew


Another view of the front ridge pole being installed


All hands on deck for the second ridge pole


Tommy working during the raising


Taking a break from the action


Working during the raising

Whitney Portal (map)

Lizard King: We all got a taste of 5.9 friction…yikes!

Hiking to the crags around Whitney Portal involves some portion of the Mt. Whitney trail, which is where we're standing (Copyright © Colin O'Connor)

No Country for Old Men: Nice rope management

No Country for Old Men: Tommy follows the undercling pitch with a full pack of gear, no less

No Country for Old Men: At the P5 belay, happy to be bailing