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Slideshow (90 photos)

The Matrix: The Matrix Epic

Joe and Will sitting on the ledge below the fin

Gate Keeper: Joe on Gate Keeper, just left of the 2nd hitch-up-matilda; we bailed here due to delaminated ice

Geronimo: Climbing the initial offwidth

Approaching the Palisades across the ice of Lake Champlain from the Vermont side

Drop, Swim, or Die: George and Joe scope out the route from Lake Champlain; the route is in especially fat conditions and is usually approached from the top via rappel

For The Birds: George does the third ascent in one long pitch while Jim and Joe watch

Goats Foot Left: Chris and Joe attempting a line left of Goat's Foot

Midlife Crisis: Joe leading the final column on Midlife Crisis during the second ground-up ascent

Joe with refreshments at the base of Cirrhosis

Thunderhead: Bones works his way out the roof on the second pitch

Thunderhead: Bones climbs through the crux on the second pitch; this picture was taken just prior to falling

Quitting early to help polish off one very large beer

Moonshine: Joe places protection in a small cave before moving out onto crappy unconsolidated ice

Moonshine: A few tenuous moves get around the cave

Moonshine: Joe climbs the steeper ice; the crux is just above

The Jackal: Setting pro high before climbing the crux; The Jackal overhangs gently for most of its length

The Jackal: With higher gear, Joe moves into the crux once again

The Jackal: Laybacking through the crux

The Jackal: Joe resting before the crux moves on the Jackal

Drop, Fly, or Die: Colin climbs the steep crack of Drop, Fly, or Die, belayed by Joe

Unknown: Joe belays Chris as he attempts a new line

Unknown: Chris places the purple Camalot, the first piece of protection

Where's Karen: Joe climbs the initial section of ice that leads to an overhanging crack; David sets up in the background to shoot The Apology

Master Craft: Joe follows the steep initial pitch of Master Craft (led by Dennis unseen above)

Yellow Pillars: Joe gets established after the traverse and prepares to climb the overhanging ice above

Yellow Pillars: Climbing into the steeper ice of the crux

The Window: Joe climbs steep ice on "The Window"

The Window: Climbing the upper ice above the window; the route "The Advocate" is the yellow column to his left

From the end of Hunter Creek Road, we approached Mean Green and other routes in the Majo Ranch area

Mean Green: Joe climbs the third pitch of Mean Green (WI4); the pitches here are separated by several hundred meters of easy scrambling up the drainage

Mean Green: Joe climbs the crux pitch of Mean Green (WI5), belayed by Tommy

Tommy and Joe wait for their laundry

Returning to the "Mother Ship" after a day climbing

Chowing down in the "Mother Ship"

The "Mother Ship" is a cordwood masonery house made using wood cut from forest service land in East Rosebud Canyon

California Ice: Joe climbs easy ice in the drainage below California Ice; we climbed about 2000' of easy ice to get to the base of the route

California Ice: Around the final bend in the drainage we can finally see the main ice flow -- 400' of WI4 ice

California Ice: Joe looks glum on the descent

California Ice: Joe climbs the second pitch (WI4) in a snow squal

Sand Dune Falls: Tommy and Joe take a rest at the base of Sand Dune Falls; unfortunately, the bottom portion of the route was missing -- she no go

Omega: Climbing the thin column on Omega; the ice was running with water

Twin Falls Left: View from the second pitch of Cleopatra's Needle; you can see Joe on Twin Falls Left, belayed by Ellen in the trees below

Taking a rest on the approach to Cleopatra's Needle and Twin Falls

Joa and Griz chatting in Griz's living room

Griz shares photos of PA ice with Joe

Lock Tender: Climbing the first curtain; the ice barely accepts stubbie screws

Lock Tender: Right off the deck on Lock Tender

Lock Tender: The initial chimney on Lock Tender

Lock Tender: The first overlap on Lock Tender

Lock Tender: Using technique to pass one of the overhanging overlaps

Lock Tender: The crux of Lock Tender is [yet another] hanging dagger through an overlap with poor protection; after this ascent, several bolts were added to the route

Lock Tender: Climbing the upper column in fat conditions

Lock Tender: Joe climbs the upper column of Lock Tender as a school bus drives by

Mixed Emotions: Climbing thin, unprotected ice on Mixed Emotions

Mixed Emotions: The crux of Mixed Emotions involved climbing a short hanging dagger through an overlap, protected by a single spectre

Mixed Emotions: The route as seen from the towpath; the ice flow centered at the top of the photo is Levitator

Mixed Emotions: Getting established on the hanging dagger in the crux

Main Flow: Joe gears up at the base of Main Flow

Left Side: Joe soloes the route "Left Side" with the routes "Pencil" and "Evil Twin" in the background

Left Side: Joe soloes the route "Left Side" with the routes "Pencil" and "Evil Twin" in the background

Joe soloes Main Gully to approach The Pencil and other climbs

Crossing the via ferrata on the approach to climbs from the Cabins

Burning Calves: Shallow jams at the crux, belayed from below by Joe

Burning Calves: Jamming on Burning Calves

Burning Calves: Jamming on Burning Calves

Super Crack: Joe offers support from below

Bat Crack: Joe in the middle of the thin crux; secret beta -- move right

At the start of "Bonemaster", belayed by Joe

The gang gathered outside the Cathedral Café, Fayetteville

Party In Your Mind: Joe partying on Party in Your Mind

The Contortionist: Moving into the offwidth crack at the start

The Entertainer: At the start of The Entertainer

Joe and Tom share beers on the porch

Castor: On the east face of South Peak, Jeremy climbs through the crux of Castor, belayed by Joe

Castor: Deep jamming on Castor

Pleasant Overhangs: Gazing at the valley from the base of the South Peak

High Test: Joe puzzles through the crux moves at the start of High Test

Pleasant Overhangs: Following the second traversing pitch

Pleasant Overhangs: Joe lookin' out; I can be seen in the reflection

Retribution: Close-up of Joe climbing the crack above the crux on Retribution

Retribution: Working out the crux on Retribution

Retribution: Climbing the crack above the crux on Retribution

The gang hanging out at the base of Turdland

Creighton-Korman: Will and Joe waiting at the first belay

Joe and Tommy climb around on the completed frame

The "climbers" help position the scaffolding

Continuing to move the rafter subsection, Doug helps, Jou and Doug watch

The front ridge pole is positioned in place

All hands on deck for the second ridge pole

Joe and Steve prepare the rafter subsections that surround the chimney