Adirondacks (map)

The Matrix buttress at Avalanche Lake
The Matrix

Topo of a few routes at Avalanche Lake
The Matrix

Traversing to the belay on the first pitch of 3D
3D

Early morning light over Avalanche Lake

Joe and Will sitting on the ledge below the fin

Will leading the leftmost crack on the fin (5.10+)
Unknown

Midway up one of the stellar chimney climbs, right of the rock route "3D"
Sufferin' Succatash

Lots of hard routes on this wall. The most prominent yellow ice is "A Usable Amount", put up by Will
A Usable Amount

Joe on Gate Keeper, just left of the 2nd hitch-up-matilda; we bailed here due to delaminated ice
Gate Keeper

Matrix wall from high on Scott Decapio's route. Visible are Gold Rush, Fools Gold, and The Matrix. Way to the right are the hangers climbed by Alex Lowe
The Matrix

My first try on leashless tools; I failed miserably, lowering off just after this point
Matrix Direct, The Other One

Bones gets established on the ice
Matrix Direct, The Other One

The Matrix with just enough ice to make it climbable
Matrix Direct, The Other One

Bones places a screw in the better ice
Matrix Direct, The Other One

View of the Matrix; the "other one" starts on the rock between the pines.
Matrix Direct, The Other One

At the top of the M7+ rock section
Matrix Direct, The Other One

High on the upper section
Matrix Direct, The Other One

Cranking through the initial overhanging crack
Matrix Direct, The Other One

Bones works out the moves on the initial overhanging crack
Matrix Direct, The Other One

The route Gate Keeper (the thin ribbon on the left) as seen from De Capio's route
Gate Keeper

Climbing a pillar on the east side of Avalanche Pass before one reaches the lake; the climb is broken into two parts -- the initial pillar to a ledge, then a rock overhang
Unknown

Bones climbs thin, poorly protected ice leading to a free-hanging ice column above
Unknown

Tad's map of Avalanche Lake showing the routes

Jim climbs the first ascent of Keymaster, a mixed route just right of Gatekeeper
Keymaster

Dad and Bruce on the summit of Big Slide in the early 1970s

Kristy following John up My Favorite Martian in Cascade Pass
My Favorite Martian

Nikos starting on the third pitch
Pete's Farwell

Posing on the lake after completing Killer Whale

Simeon chimneying up Haggis and Cold Toast in the Beer Walls
Haggis and Cold Toast

George gears up to follow H14
H14

Series 1: Clipping the pin that Joe thankfully placed on the first ascent
H14

Series 2: Delicate moves are required to keep the little remaining ice intact
H14

Series 3: Near the end of the difficulties
H14

Approaching the final free-hanging pillar on Big Brother
Big Brother

Climbing the initial steep pillar on Buford; this pillar is shared between Bubba, Buford, and Ice Storm
Buford

Moving up the final overhanging smear of ice at the top of the route; the crux of the route is the traverse connecting the pillar of Bubba to the yellow drips on the right
Buford

Tommy leading the steep ice smear of Laceration
Laceration

Tommy leads the thin lower face that leads to the cave
Reunion

After getting gear in the rock cave, Tommy climbs the crux column
Reunion

Tommy starts the crux pitch of Artificial Gravity; the pillar on the right side is Power Play
Artificial Gravity

At the top, the ice overhangs; the route finishes by mounting the free-hanging pillar to the right
Artificial Gravity

The free-hanging pillar is the crux of this route, although the unprotected climbing above is engaging
Unknown

Series 1: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 2: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 3: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 4: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 5: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

Series 6: Jeremy climbs Not Likely, an alternative finish to Lilith that climbs a free hanging dagger that drips from an off-width chimney
Not Likely

The Power Play wall with a few routes labeled

The Big Brother wall in fat conditions; Big Brother is on the broken ice column on the left, Tommy is on Rhiannon, and Lilith is on the far right. On the orange wall just right of Tommy is the free-hanging column called Not Likely
Rhiannon

The cave is exited using an ice host that drips on the face to the left; the strip of ice on the right is Laceration
Reunion

Ade climbs the sketchy ice in the center section of Power Play
Power Play

A nice face climb at the Courthouse
Runaway Jury

Climbing the initial offwidth
Geronimo

Birches at the base of Geronimo -- water color

First free ascent of Life During Wartime, Echo Cliff
Life During Wartime

The now-famous Unit

Nipple Top from Elk Lake

Staring out into space on the top of Sunrise Mountain near Elk Lake

Working out the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Working out the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Working out the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Working out the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator
The Fecalator

One-arm hang, attempting to rest
The Fecalator

Jim on the first ascent of Lucky Stars (5.11R) at Good Luck Cliff
Lucky Stars

Mike on the first ascent of a new route right of Cleveland, Good Luck Cliff
Columbus

Bill making the route safer after the first ascent
Lucky Stars

Will leading the beautiful 5.9 hand crack after a night of heavy partying
Mystery Achievement

Bill cleans the route with a wire brush on rappel
Lucky Stars

Topping out on the South Face route
Direct South Face

Simon and Lori at the belay on top of pitch 1; the lovely yellow lichen is characteristic of the south face
Direct South Face

The south face of Gothics as seen from the summit of Pyramid

The south face of Gothics as seen from the summit of Pyramid with the 3-pitch 5.9 route described
Direct South Face

Tom climbing around the chockstone on the direct start of Left of Passage
Left of Passage

Jim at Heart Lake in 1978

Bones approaches the crux roof/corner
There Be Dragons

Stemming through the crux; one more move and he's got a sinker hand jam
There Be Dragons

Dennis leads the crux of the route while Jim belays
Route of Opressive Power

Dennis finally nails the crux and struggles with the hand jams above
Route of Opressive Power

Dad resting on a bridge near Avalanche Lean-to

Jim hiking in the mid 1970s

Dizzle showing off the singlet

Dizzle starts a lap

Earl hangs out at camp

Posing with Lori

Following up GPD in the fall
Geriatric Profanity Disorder

Simon silhouetted against the sky on Apollo Tucker
Apollo Tucker

Tad, following the second pitch of Hooligans, Hurricane Crag
Hooligans

The gang at the Winter camp, late 70's

Chris, following Cheese and Crackers, King Wall
Cheese and Crackers

John near the second bolt of Chronic Fixation at the King Wall
Chronic Fixation

Just past the crux on the fragile upper columns
Cheese and Crackers

Chris warms up on one of the easier routes at the King Wall
Chronic Fixation

Jim belays Chris who is following the second pitch; the traverse is hard, but made easier using chimney moves with your back
Kingdom Come

Jim climbs the first pitch (5.11c) of Kingdom Come; the route continues left, then climbs the broken arching rock rightwards to a belay
Kingdom Come

Closeup of Jim on the first pitch
Kingdom Come

Leading the top section of Unexpected Pleasures on Knob Lock
Unexpected Pleasures

Ade leading on a cold day with brittle ice
Lock and Load

Martin leading the first ascent of Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish
Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish

Topping out on the crux in thin conditions
Dr. Villarica's Rocket Polish

Topo of Lock Ness

Lock Ness

Topo of Lock Ness
Lock and Load

Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load
Lock and Load

Jim leading the first ascent of Lock and Load
Lock and Load

Jim leading the first ascent of The Best Ice Route in the Philippines
The Best Ice Route in the Philippines

Simeon leading the first ascent of Too Early on the lower wall of Lock Ness
Too Early

Jim leading in a snow storm on Camera Trouble on the upper wall of Lock Ness
Camera Trouble

Karen (of the Cliffhanger) preparing to climb at Lock Ness

Leading the offwidth 3rd pitch
Fear of Flying

High in the corner of the third pitch of Hard Times
Hard Times

Simeon at the top of the chimney pitch, belaying Simon
Hard Times

Crossing the river using a Tyrolean traverse

Kevin doing a split at the crux of Falconer
Falconer

Climbing the dramatic arete; this crux is moving onto the face (at the level of the gear in the photo), but the top is no giveaway
Spirit of Adventure

Jeremy climbs the thin face past the bolt at the start
Creation of the World

After placing gear in the corner, Jeremy prepares to layback
Creation of the World

Jeremy places a piece of gear into the expanding flake above the bolt; this gear sucks, and he later removed it
Creation of the World

After reaching a good hold for the left foot, Jeremy scopes the shallow corner for better protection
Creation of the World

At the end of the traverse on the 2nd pitch (5.11a), finally able to place some better gear
Creation of the World

Getting established in the hand crack at the end of the traverse on the second pitch (5.11a)
Creation of the World

Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a)
Creation of the World

Climbing the fist-crack on the second pitch (5.11a)
Creation of the World

The crack turns to wide fists before becoming off-width just above (2nd pitch)
Creation of the World

Approaching the hanging cedar on the 2nd pitch (5.11a)
Creation of the World

Joe belays while Jim eats a granola bar
Creation of the World

Lucie and Jim on the Summit of Giant after climbing Eagle Slab
Eagle Slab

Pushing it, after 20 hours

On the final lap of the 24-hour race

Start of the "24-Hours in the Adirondacks" mountain bike race

Waiting at the transition area

Approaching the Palisades across the ice of Lake Champlain from the Vermont side

George and Joe scope out the route from Lake Champlain; the route is in especially fat conditions and is usually approached from the top via rappel
Drop, Swim, or Die

Climbing the crux column low on the route
Drop, Swim, or Die

The second crux climbs the ice above the climber through the constriction in the rock
Drop, Swim, or Die

The leftmost route at The Palisades; the ice doesn't reach the bottom, thus the first ascent traversed in from the left; Will climbed a direct start on rock reaching the free-hanging pillars on the right side
Lake Champlain Monster

Jeremy checks out the ice with the "Monster" in the background
Lake Champlain Monster

Jeremy scopes out the line from the lake; the first ascent of this route occurred earlier this same day
For The Birds

Jeremy climbs the initial ice bulge, using nuts on the right for protection
For The Birds

The crux of the first pitch is a thin ice column protected with rock gear on the sides
For The Birds

With the gear in place, the ice column can be safely climbed
For The Birds

Just above the belay, the climbing is secure, but the ice is melted out and sketchy
For The Birds

George does the third ascent in one long pitch while Jim and Joe watch
For The Birds

Tom leading the first ascent at Pharaoh Mt.
Here Come the Pigs

Tom posing at the base of his new route

Tres Amigos in the road at Poko

John high on the third pitch of Freedom Flight
Freedom Flight

John high on the third pitch of Freedom Flight
Freedom Flight

Jim low down on Goats Foot, Poko
Goats Foot

Close-up of Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko
Goats Foot

Jim leading Goats Foot, Poko
Goats Foot

Chris and Joe attempting a line left of Goat's Foot
Goats Foot Left

Jim high in the Hidden Pique corner, Poko
Hidden Pique

Thin steep ice on Bushido, Poko
Bushido

Joe leading the final column on Midlife Crisis during the second ground-up ascent
Midlife Crisis

Will leading the Poko Waterfall in lean conditions
Waterfall

Positive Thinking, as seen from the road in fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Jim starting the first pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko
Positive Thinking

Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch
Positive Thinking

Close-up of Jim high up in the hand crack of Positive Thinking, first pitch
Positive Thinking

Simon leading the second pitch of Positive Thinking, Poko
Positive Thinking

Simeon leading on the upper tier of Poko
Run for your Life

John at the base of the Poko Waterfall
Bushido

Joe with refreshments at the base of Cirrhosis

Making the traverse on the first pitch of Son of Slime
Son of Slime

Close-up of Jim making the traverse on Son of Slime
Son of Slime

Ade leading the first pitch of Positive Thinking in fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Ade leading the first pitch of Positive Thinking in fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Dave soloing the lower section of PT in fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions
Midlife Crisis

Leading the top column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions
Midlife Crisis

Leading the top crux column of Midlife Crisis in cold, brittle conditions
Midlife Crisis

Leading the third pitch of PT in thin conditions
Positive Thinking

Positive thinking from the road; fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Simeon leading the second pitch
Positive Thinking

Stingray, shown using the first pitch of PT
Stingray

Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead
Waterfall

Tommy leading an ambitious line on the Waterfall with Katherine Snead
Waterfall

Legends contemplate the remaining work on the new routes near Pilgrim's Progress

Lori with her bandage

Legends at the base of Poko

Lori taped and ready to go

Jim at the start of the second pitch (yes, those are bolts next to the crack; what you can't see is that the crack is really the left edge of an enormous arrowhead-shaped detached block)
Pilgrim's Progress

Dennis halfway through the overhangs on the last pitch
Ancient of Days

Getting ready to pull through the exit moves on the last pitch
Ancient of Days

Just below the notch that breaks through the overhangs on the last pitch
Ancient of Days

Pulling through the final overhangs
Ancient of Days

About to pull through the final overhangs
Ancient of Days

The death of my Nikon 28TI
Casual Observer

Straining to pull the final layback move on Morning Star
Morning Star

The final pitch of Morning Star climbs a steep face to a layback finish around a bulge
Morning Star

Cleaning a nut on the second pitch
Morning Star

Bones works his way out the roof on the second pitch
Thunderhead

Bones climbs through the crux on the second pitch; this picture was taken just prior to falling
Thunderhead

Quitting early to help polish off one very large beer

At the top of the off-width section on the first pitch
Fastest Gun

Jeremy follows the first pitch (5.10a) of Pilgrim's Progress
Pilgrim's Progress

Joe places protection in a small cave before moving out onto crappy unconsolidated ice
Moonshine

A few tenuous moves get around the cave
Moonshine

Joe climbs the steeper ice; the crux is just above
Moonshine

Michelle casually follows Moonshine
Moonshine

A climber on the first pitch of Positive Thinking in super fat conditions
Positive Thinking

Dark Lord in melt-out conditions at Poko's upper tier
Dark Lord

Will leading the start of P1, "Hold the Mayo" (WI5+ M6)
Hold the Mayo

Will resting on "Hold the Mayo"
Hold the Mayo

Will higher in the corner on "Hold the Mayo"
Hold the Mayo

Will finally reaches the ice dagger on "Hold the Mayo"
Hold the Mayo

Jim leading pitch 2 of "Hold the Mayo"
Hold the Mayo

Joe solo-aid climbing a route left of Hold the Mayo, Poko Upper Tier
Fear of Frogs

Tom seconding the corner left of Fear of Gravity
Mechanical Hydraulic Control

Tom getting a rest after squeezing through the crux on Your Anus
Your Anus

Setting pro high before climbing the crux; The Jackal overhangs gently for most of its length
The Jackal

With higher gear, Joe moves into the crux once again
The Jackal

Laybacking through the crux
The Jackal

Joe resting before the crux moves on the Jackal
The Jackal

The opening moves of Dark Lord clims ice under a roof, up into a corner, then onto a free-hanging pillar
Dark Lord

Starting up the steep middle section of the route
Dark Lord

The crux of the route climbs melted ice on black rock. The ice in the corner is shaded and therefore more solid than the ice on the face.
Dark Lord

Jeremy leading the huge roof; after this roof, there's a perfect finger crack that leads one into the overhanging rock left-of-center in the photo
Fear of a Flat Planet

Just before the meat of the climbing on Double Diamond
Double Diamond

Sinking the tips into the this layback crack
Double Diamond

Jeremy clips into gear in the thin crack
Double Diamond

Taking a rest on the left
Double Diamond

Climbing through the crux, Jeremy places more gear
Double Diamond

Grabbing the bucket past the crux
Double Diamond

Final moves to the anchor
Double Diamond

Tom and Nona having dessert in the kitchen after a day of ice climbing

Series 1: Dennis climbs the initial intimidating wall
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Series 2: Starting into the crux finger crack
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Series 3: Struggling with the crux of the route
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Full sequence of Dennis climbing Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Don climbs the lower crux section of the route
Romano's Route

Lucie painting at the Spider's Web

Will traversing into the base of the Eternity crack; we bailed here due to wetness
Eternity

Belaying at the base of the Web
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley

Colin reaches for gear after the difficult traverse
Drop, Fly, or Die

Colin climbs the steep crack of Drop, Fly, or Die, belayed by Joe
Drop, Fly, or Die

About midway up the diagonal crack
It's Only Entertainment

Placing gear at midpoint on the diagonal crack
It's Only Entertainment

At the end of the diagonal crack; a couple of pieces here protect the crux left traverse
It's Only Entertainment

Halfway across the crux traverse
It's Only Entertainment

Awkard jams at the start of Ku Klux Ken
Ku Klux Ken

Chris powers through a couple strnuous moves
Ku Klux Ken

Pretty cool pinch hold
Ku Klux Ken

Laybacks near the top
Ku Klux Ken

A long reach; still not there yet
Ku Klux Ken

On the traverse to the final ice smear
The Apology

Reaching the final ice smear after 80' of dry tooling
The Apology

The final moves up the ice after the traverse
The Apology

Just off the ground, Chris searches for his first placement
Unknown

Joe belays Chris as he attempts a new line
Unknown

Chris places the purple Camalot, the first piece of protection
Unknown

Scanning the rock for a possible line; after this point, Chris aborted the attempt
Unknown

Joe climbs the initial section of ice that leads to an overhanging crack; David sets up in the background to shoot The Apology
Where's Karen

Jim and John on the way to Cragsmere

Lucie in the canoe near Cragsmere on Upper Chateaugay Lake

Kristy leading on the Diagonal on Wallface
Diagonal

Chris and Simon on the top of the ramp on the Diagonal, Wallface
Diagonal

Looking down from the roof pitch of Mental Blocks at Stuart, Roger, and Jim
Mental Blocks

Jim leading the third pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface
Mental Blocks

Napping on Lunch Ledge, three pitches from the top
Free Ride

Moving into the first crux of the route on the first pitch; unfortunately, the business is right at the start of the route
Free Ride

At the belay on the Shield; these two pitches are some of the best face climbing in the northeast
Free Ride

Dennis leads pitch 4, the first Shield pitch
Free Ride

At the start of pitch 8, the "Endurance Corner"; the climbing here is very sustained, and the rock is a bit grainy
Free Ride

Resting about halfway through pitch 8
Free Ride

At the top of the cliff, the route traverses below a giant roof; a couple of hard [Houdini] moves, combined with awesome exposure, make this pitch a "must do"
Free Ride

Wallface, taken in the early morning from the viewpoint in Indian Pass

Close-up of the route Free Ride on Wallface
Free Ride

The route Free Ride on Wallface
Free Ride

Jim leading the second pitch of Mental Blocks, Wallface
Mental Blocks

Joe follows the steep initial pitch of Master Craft (led by Dennis unseen above)
Master Craft

Lucie painting at the Washbowl Cliff, below the route Flashdance

Unknown climber high on Wind Jammer, a perfect splitter crack
Wind Jammer

Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier
Polar Soldier

Tommy climbs the WI5 pillar on the left side of Polar Soldier
Polar Soldier

Joe gets established after the traverse and prepares to climb the overhanging ice above
Yellow Pillars

Climbing into the steeper ice of the crux
Yellow Pillars

Overview showing Bombcicle and Yellow Pillars
Yellow Pillars