Thumbnails

Slideshow (163 photos)

3D: Traversing to the belay on the first pitch of 3D

Joe and Will sitting on the ledge below the fin

Unknown: Will leading the leftmost crack on the fin (5.10+)

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones gets established on the ice

Matrix Direct, The Other One: The Matrix with just enough ice to make it climbable

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones places a screw in the better ice

Matrix Direct, The Other One: View of the Matrix; the "other one" starts on the rock between the pines.

Matrix Direct, The Other One: At the top of the M7+ rock section

Matrix Direct, The Other One: High on the upper section

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Cranking through the initial overhanging crack

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones works out the moves on the initial overhanging crack

Unknown: Climbing a pillar on the east side of Avalanche Pass before one reaches the lake; the climb is broken into two parts -- the initial pillar to a ledge, then a rock overhang

Unknown: Bones climbs thin, poorly protected ice leading to a free-hanging ice column above

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Working out the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: Tommy belays Bones as he works the moves on The Fecalator

The Fecalator: One-arm hang, attempting to rest

Mystery Achievement: Will leading the beautiful 5.9 hand crack after a night of heavy partying

There Be Dragons: Bones approaches the crux roof/corner

There Be Dragons: Stemming through the crux; one more move and he's got a sinker hand jam

Waterfall: Will leading the Poko Waterfall in lean conditions

Legends at the base of Poko

Thunderhead: Bones works his way out the roof on the second pitch

Thunderhead: Bones climbs through the crux on the second pitch; this picture was taken just prior to falling

Fastest Gun: At the top of the off-width section on the first pitch

Hold the Mayo: Hold the Mayo

Hold the Mayo: Will leading the start of P1, "Hold the Mayo" (WI5+ M6)

Hold the Mayo: Will resting on "Hold the Mayo"

Hold the Mayo: Will higher in the corner on "Hold the Mayo"

Hold the Mayo: Will finally reaches the ice dagger on "Hold the Mayo"

Hold the Mayo: Jim leading pitch 2 of "Hold the Mayo"

Fear of Frogs: Joe solo-aid climbing a route left of Hold the Mayo, Poko Upper Tier

Eternity: Will traversing into the base of the Eternity crack; we bailed here due to wetness

Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley: Belaying at the base of the Web

Diedre: Popping veins

Dresden: Reaching for the upper crack in Dresden; the climb ascents Nutcracker for a bit, then moves leftwards into the crux Dresden crack

Boney hanging out in the Kitchen

Mephisto Waltz: Bones dances up the wet and drippy Mephisto Waltz

La Pomme D'or: La Pomme d'Or

La Pomme D'or: Will simul-climbing the first two pitches

La Pomme D'or: Will leading the 4th pitch

La Pomme D'or: Will following the crux 5th pitch

La Pomme D'or: Will leading the 6th pitch

La Pomme D'or: Will leading the 7th pitch

Black Dike: Climbers Meet the Fuck Man

Moby Grape: Bones follows the last pitch of Moby Grape; this finish climbs corners left of the standard finish

Bennedictus Direct: Bones at the crux of the first pitch; from here, the route continues [climber's] left on an unprotected 5.8 face

Bennedictus Direct: Bones runs it out on the thin 5.9 traverse on the 4th pitch

Bennedictus Direct: At the end of the traverse on the 4th pitch, a couple of really hard moves (5.11c) take Bones to overlap. This pitch is a variation to the original route that avoids the 5.11d A3 section.

Panning back, you can see the bolt is in a piece of talus, having fallen from somewhere on Cannon

Two themes of our climbing trip to Colorado -- Hemp, and "Just put it off"

Posing in front of the "Brick" at the Supercrack Buttress parking lot

Mindbender: Will high on the final column of Mindbender

Boney Boy

Mindbender: Will starting the second pitch out of the cave

The Promenade: Will leading the crux columns of The Promenade

Glass Menagerie: Will dry-tooling the first 200' of Glass Menagerie in [obviously] thin conditions (WI5, M6)

Glass Menagerie: Jim and Will gearing up at the base

Tailgate party after a day of climbing (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Hiking into Lumpy for the day (Copyright © Lucie Wellner)

Relaxing after climbing Fat City/Cheap Date; note the "Texas-sized" rack (Easterners!)

Fat City: Simon leading the first pitch (5.8); Will belaying

Cheap Date: Leading the awesome finger crack of Cheap Date; this route makes a great alternative finish to Fat City

Cheap Date: Bones rippling muscles on Cheap Date

Cheap Date: Jamming is the way forward

Fat City: Bones appearing from under the crux roof on Fat City

Bones hanging back to check out the action on the cliff

Jaws: Shoe-ing up after climbing Jaws (and 10 hours of driving)

The gang gathered outside the Cathedral Café, Fayetteville

Cresenta: The gang at the base of Cresenta just before a downpour

Smooth Operator: Will placing gear in the super Smooth Operator

Smooth Operator: Jamming the perfect cracks of Smooth Operator

Will and David gear up for the day

The Amphitheatre in reasonable condition; centered is Mate, Spawn and Die and A Pitch Called Wanda

A Pitch Called Wanda: Bones climbs the beginning section of Wanda with the Amphitheatre in the background

Chum: Bones dry-tools the rock to reach the free-hanging curtain

Chum: Bones dry-tools the rock to reach the free-hanging curtain

Chum: Bones dry-tools the rock to reach the free-hanging curtain

Chum: Bones reaches the ice and climbs onto the curtain

Chum: Bones establishes himself on the ice curtain

Chum: Climbing the ice curtain

Chum: Climbing the ice curtain

Chum: At the top of the curtain, Bones climbs through a section of rock to reach the top

A Pitch Called Wanda: Bones climbs the thin pencil column at the start of Wanda

A Pitch Called Wanda: Bones climbs the thin pencil column at the start of Wanda

A Pitch Called Wanda: Bones on the second ascent of Wanda

A Pitch Called Wanda: Bones on the second ascent of Wanda

A Pitch Called Wanda: Getting into the meat of the ice climbing

A Pitch Called Wanda: Bones climbs through the crux of the route -- overhanging daggers and curtains

A Pitch Called Wanda: David shoots Bones as he nears the top of the ice

Chum: Preparing gear for the first ascent of Chum

King Salmon: Bones inspects the route prior to the first ascent

King Salmon: Dry-tooling up to the right side of a small ledge

King Salmon: From the top of the small ledge, Bones steps left, then climbs rock and a thin ice column straight up

King Salmon: Continuing up the small ice column

King Salmon: From the top of the ice column, Bones mounts the ice and climbs into a small ice cave to rest

King Salmon: Getting closer to the ice cave

King Salmon: Bones rests in the ice cave

King Salmon: Emerging from the ice cave, Bones continues

King Salmon: Bones climbs the overhanging crux

King Salmon: Bones on rappel inspecting the route prior to the first ascent

King Salmon: The King Salmon route as seen from The Elbow

Le Mulot: Will leading the last pitch (WI6+R) of Le Mulot (Copyright © Rich Gottlieb)

Le Mulot: Will leading the last pitch (WI6+R) of Le Mulot (with big arrow pointing to the climber) (Copyright © Rich Gottlieb)

Le Mulot: Will leading the third pitch (WI6)

Le Mulot: Will leading the third pitch (WI6); lots of twisted-looking overhanging ice

Le Mulot: Will following the second pitch

Le Mulot: Will starting out on the last pitch…the calm before the storm

Le Mulot: Topo showing the route and belays; picture taken from the river (Copyright © Rich Gottlieb)

Le Mulot: Topo showing the route and belays; picture taken from the side (Copyright © Rich Gottlieb)

Le Mulot: Will and Jim on Le Mulot (Copyright © Rich Gottlieb)

Le Mulot: The third pitch of Le Mulot; the overhanging cliff and constant wind work to create the painfully contorted, yellow icicles on the right

Nest Route: About to pull the crux on a nice face climb at Lost City (5.10a)

Black Crack: Will leading Black Crack, a nice 5.10 crack left of Lost City Crack

Black Crack: Close-up of Will leading Black Crack

Black Crack: Will leading the crux of Black Crack (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Resistance (aka Surprise Crack): Will at the "pod" crux of Resistance

Wishbone: Will below of the Wishbone roof; the normal route goes out the right side of the large triangular block

Stannard's Roof: Leading the 5.8 section up to the roof

Stannard's Roof: Just below the roof

Elder Cleavage: Getting in some gear after the boulder problem start of Elder Cleavage

Hang Ten: Moving into the crux of Hang Ten

Criss: A failed attempt at the hard start to Criss (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Harvest Moon: Series 1: Making the moves into the crack from the chimney (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Harvest Moon: Series 2: Moving through the crux jams (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Harvest Moon: Series 3: Still moving through the crux jams (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Harvest Moon: Series 4: At the rest at the top of the crack (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Max Factor: Clipping the second piece of gear at the start of the crux (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Wegetables: Close-up of Will gearing up for the crux moves on Wegetables

Wegetables: Close-up of Will gearing up for the crux moves on Wegetables

The gang hanging out at the base of Turdland

Birdie Party: Powering through the roof on the second pitch of Birdie Party

Bonnie's Roof Direct: Gearing up for the roof moves on Bonnie's Roof

Wegetables: Gearing up for the crux moves on Wegetables

Wegetables: Gearing up for the crux moves on Wegetables

April Showers: Will's completed the difficulties and tackles the 10b upper section

Interstice: Struggling on the low roof of Interstice on the Mac Wall

Matinee: Series 1: Will leading the crux on the first pitch of Matinee

Matinee: Series 2: Finishing the crux moves on the first pitch of Matinee (Copyright © Will Mayo)

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 1: Will places gear in preparation for the crux roof

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 2: Q: Is that Steve Petro? A:Nope, it's a ripped Will bustin' out of his skin

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 3: Will gets established in the crux roof

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 4: Will places gear in the crux roof

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 5: A couple of pieces in, time to move up (Copyright © Will Mayo)

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 6: Lock off and reach high in the crack above (Copyright © Will Mayo)

10,000 Restless Virgins: Series 7: Feet up, nearly finished (Copyright © Will Mayo)

Scary Area: Chris boulders the opening moves on the direct start of Scary Area; Bones offering support from below

Space Invaders: Scoping out the moves above

Space Invaders: Moving up the initial arete on Space Invaders

Stirrup Trouble: Bones offering beta to Chris at the base of Stirrup Trouble

Space Invaders: Looking for that first piece of protection

Space Invaders: In the crux; one more move and there's a solid hand jam

Stirrup Trouble: Chris climbs the initial scary section, belayed by Bones

Erect Direction: Will and Michelle on the GT ledge preparing for the top pitches

Creighton-Korman: Will and Joe waiting at the first belay

Creighton-Korman: Boney Boy following the second pitch

Pigs In Space: Will approaching the first belay; the crux crack is just above

Liberty Bell: Strenuous start to Liberty Bell, probably more in the 5.10 range

Cake Walk: Starting our on the mega-classic. The crux is just above the small roof.

Finagle: Heel-hooking the roof on Finagle

Finagle: After railing out the lip of the roof, Will tries to gain purchase above the lip of the roof

Precious Orr: Placing gear in the "hole" of Precious Orr; the hole is avoided by face-climbing on the right

Super Slide: Placing gear at the top of the corner before heading into the crux section; lots of small wires required

Will gets a job (Copyright © Mammut)