Salmon River Falls (map)

Salmon River Falls Unique Area

Will and David gear up for the day

Finishing the crux column, about to dry tool to the finish on rotten shale
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Jim leading the first ascent of The Elbow
The Elbow

Series 1: The overhanging wall containing Mate, Spawn, and Die
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Series 2: The route follows the right-hand columns of the flow
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Series 3: Marks the route Mate, Spawn, and Die
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Series 4: Climbing into the crux, the ice hangs free from the rock above
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Series 5: Close-up - high on Mate, Spawn, and Die
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Series 6: Placing bomber protection before moving into the free hanging columns
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Series 7: Clipping the fixed runner at the top of the ice; the runner is connected to a bolt, the first placed at Salmon River
Mate, Spawn, and Die

At the top of the column, the route climbs into the overhanging root ball of a tree, then climbs the branches, and finally the rock to the rim of the Gorge
Go Fly a Kype

Jeremy climbs the stellar line in fat conditions, belayed by Leslie
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Approaching the top column in fat conditions
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Approaching the top column in fat conditions
Mate, Spawn, and Die

One of the easier lines in the Gorge, Salmon Runs climbs the right side of the Amphitheatre wall
Salmon Runs

One of the more creative routes at the Gorge, Curtain Call traverses behind all the pillars on the Amphitheatre wall, finally emerging from a hole and finishing up on Salmon Runs
Curtain Call

Michelle approaches the cave belay
Curtain Call

Shot of the route taken from the base showing the steep, overhanging ice and the rock roofs above
Play It Again, Salmon

The steepest section of the Amphitheatre
Play It Again, Salmon

Chris on the second ascent, hanging from a ripped out screamer after a tied-off ice tool popped; the other axe is left placed well above his head
Play It Again, Salmon

Chris on the steep ice column on the second ascent
Play It Again, Salmon

Chris reaches the first bolt on top of the steep ice on the second ascent; the route continues to the right onto a ledge (the one with the icicles), then pumps through three large roofs to the rim
Play It Again, Salmon

The first ascent of Play It Again, Salmon -- on the steep, free-standing pillar at the bottom of the route
Play It Again, Salmon

Michelle belays while Jim places a screw
Play It Again, Salmon

Steep ice in the Amphitheatre
Play It Again, Salmon

The first ascent of Play It Again, Salmon -- overview of the entire route
Play It Again, Salmon

Nearing the top of the ice
Play It Again, Salmon

Having reached the top of the ice (and the bolt), the route traverses right
Play It Again, Salmon

In the midst of the rock section; the crux roof is just below
Play It Again, Salmon

Attempting to de-pump
Play It Again, Salmon

Preparing to climb in the Amphitheatre

Climbing overhanging ice at the start of the route
Play It Again, Salmon

Climbing the lower column
Play It Again, Salmon

Thankfully reaching the rest at the top of the free-standing column
Salmonella

Early season ice on a -10F day in the Amphitheatre
Salmon Runs

The Amphitheatre in reasonable condition; centered is Mate, Spawn and Die and A Pitch Called Wanda

Bones climbs the beginning section of Wanda with the Amphitheatre in the background
A Pitch Called Wanda

Bones dry-tools the rock to reach the free-hanging curtain
Chum

Bones dry-tools the rock to reach the free-hanging curtain
Chum

Bones dry-tools the rock to reach the free-hanging curtain
Chum

Bones reaches the ice and climbs onto the curtain
Chum

Bones establishes himself on the ice curtain
Chum

Climbing the ice curtain
Chum

Climbing the ice curtain
Chum

At the top of the curtain, Bones climbs through a section of rock to reach the top
Chum

Bones climbs the thin pencil column at the start of Wanda
A Pitch Called Wanda

Bones climbs the thin pencil column at the start of Wanda
A Pitch Called Wanda

Bones on the second ascent of Wanda
A Pitch Called Wanda

Bones on the second ascent of Wanda
A Pitch Called Wanda

Getting into the meat of the ice climbing
A Pitch Called Wanda

Bones climbs through the crux of the route -- overhanging daggers and curtains
A Pitch Called Wanda

David shoots Bones as he nears the top of the ice
A Pitch Called Wanda

Preparing gear for the first ascent of Chum
Chum

Bones inspects the route prior to the first ascent
King Salmon

Dry-tooling up to the right side of a small ledge
King Salmon

From the top of the small ledge, Bones steps left, then climbs rock and a thin ice column straight up
King Salmon

Continuing up the small ice column
King Salmon

From the top of the ice column, Bones mounts the ice and climbs into a small ice cave to rest
King Salmon

Getting closer to the ice cave
King Salmon

Bones rests in the ice cave
King Salmon

Emerging from the ice cave, Bones continues
King Salmon

Bones climbs the overhanging crux
King Salmon

Bones on rappel inspecting the route prior to the first ascent
King Salmon

The King Salmon route as seen from The Elbow
King Salmon

Chris belys Tommy in a field of blue ice blocks; while following the route, enormous ice blocks released, completely burying this belay spot in tons of fresh ice
Play it Again, Salmon

Michelle gets ready to lead Salmon Steak
Salmon Steak

Tommy gets ready to lead the class Mate, Spawn, and Die
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Tommy finds fat ice on Mate, Spawn, and Die
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Tommy runs it out over the initial section
Play it Again, Salmon

About half way up, Tommy heads slightly left to gain a rest between the columns
Play it Again, Salmon

Spectacular climbing on the 100' free standing ice column
Play it Again, Salmon

Chris belays Tommy while he places a screw
Play it Again, Salmon

Just above the crux of Chum; on the first ascent, the column under Clive's left foot wasn't formed
Chum

At the "flat stance" on Chum Lick; the route bridges up between the rock and ice (using Chum's bolts), then corkscrews around to the front of the column and on to the top
Chum Lick

Bridging up between the rock and the ice
Chum Lick

Corkscrewing around to the front of the column
Chum Lick

Todd belays Griz on the first ascent of Chum Lick
Chum Lick

Resting before the final push through the rock section
Chum Lick

Griz leads the first ascent of Chum Stick -- the Chum column taken directly
Chum Stick

A little higher on the column, Griz flags a foot for a rest
Chum Stick

Placing a screw
Chum Stick

Depumping after placing a screw
Chum Stick

Griz leads, Todd belays from below
Chum Stick

Nearing the top of the ice column; the ice is peppered with shale bits from the rock band
Chum Stick

Nearing the top of the ice
Chum Stick

At the top of the ice, Griz chokes up on his tool, clips the bolt on the right, then proceeds through the rock band
Chum Stick

First ascent of Sockeye -- to preserve the ice column, Griz bridges from the rock
Sockeye

Higher, the gap narrows, squeezing Griz and forcing him out the notch to the front
Sockeye

At the top of the chimney, Griz scums his back against a protruding rock for a rest
Sockeye

Around the front of the column, the climbing eases and allows some restful stemming
Sockeye

Nearing the top of the ice
Sockeye

On the first ascent of Filet it Again; the roof below is pumpy, but the ice crux is still to come
Filet It Again

Simeon pauses at the base of the steep section
Salmonella

Simeon pauses at the base of the steep section
Salmonella

Climbing steep ice on Salmonella
Salmonella

Steep ice in the Amphitheatre with the river below; Salmon Steak is the large ice flow in the upper right of the photo
Salmonella

Gearing up

Todd climbs Mate, Spawn, and Die in fat conditions
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Using a little technique on the sharp end
Mate, Spawn, and Die

The pretty Mate, Spawn, and Die with the prow of the Amphitheatre visible in the background
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Griz looks on as Todd leads
Mate, Spawn, and Die

Todd climbs Salmonella
Salmonella

A little higher on Salmonella
Salmonella

Salmonella with the "big routes" behind
Salmonella

The route Green Eggs and Salmon climbs the left side of this flow in the Lower Gorge; Salmon I Am climbs the column and overhang in the center of the photo
Green Eggs and Salmon

Mike first ascent, center section of the main falls
Slappin' The Salmon

Mike first ascent, center section of the main falls
Slappin' The Salmon

Mike leads the first ascent of the main falls
Slappin' The Salmon

Jim leading the main falls, left side
Lox and Locks

Jim high up on Shale We Climb in thin conditions, second ascent
Shale We Climb

Shale We Climb topo
Shale We Climb

Jim pumping through the initial roof
Shale We Climb

Topo of Shale We Climb in fat conditions
Shale We Climb

Tad seconding the first pitch of Shale We Climb
Shale We Climb

Jim leading an unnamed column on the wall left of the main falls
Emergency Release

Pretty easy climbing, but the ice is unconsolidated and protection is sparse
Lox and Locks

Deep snow in the Salmon River Gorge

Dave belays Mike, hidden in a groove
Slappin' The Salmon

Dave belays Mike on the Main Falls, likely the first ascent
Slappin' The Salmon

The Main Falls in a good year

The Main Falls melting out on the right side

Shale We Climb in WI4 conditions
Shale We Climb

Leading through the final column; this column rarely comes in
Shale We Climb

Checking out the questionable rock near a column on the upper wall
Emergency Release

Simon leads a column that forms near the Gorge Trail; main falls in the background
Fingerlings

The columns of ice along the canyon rim (right of the Main Falls) form into fat and challenging climbs late in the season
Emergency Release

Tad attempting to lead the first pitch of Shale We Climb
Shale We Climb

Pumping through the opening roof
Shale We Climb

The Salmon River Falls in fat conditions; everything in this picture is currently off-limits, including those awesome looking hangers on the left

Tad following the main downstream flow
Salmon Steak

Jim leading the main downstream flow
Salmon Steak

Simon leading the main downstream flow
Salmon Steak

Simon high up on the main downstream flow
Salmon Steak

Jim leading the main downstream flow, center section
Salmon Steak

Simon placing his first screw
Salmon Steak

Simon leads a fat WI4
The Ice Hatchery

Lower Gorge as seen from downstream

Lower Gorge as seen from downstream

Simeon on the first ascent of Sashimi; doesn't look like it, but water is running into his boots
Sashimi

Mike follows Chris on the right side of Salmon Steak
Salmon Steak