Jim's Beta for Arrowplane
Start: Begin at the far right edge of the ledge from which all the routes begin, or 4th class directly up the slabs from below.
P1: Climb the blank face left of a prominent water streak aiming towards a small left-facing corner up high. One passes some flakes for gear, but not more that 2 adequate pieces of gear can be found. For the most part, the face climbing is straight forward; the crux is gaining the corner. 5.8+, 200'
P2: Traverse right from the belay (good protection), stepping down to an exposed move that breaks through the roof at an obvious crack. Follow this crack up and slightly right through a small roof, then angle leftwards following shallow cracks to an uncomfortable belay. Contrary to the guidebook, this pitch doesn't require large gear or have any required "hidden nut" placements. 5.9, 160'
P3: Climb straight above the belay aiming for a jammed flake in the roof. Above this, climb twin cracks just left of a left-facing corner. At the top, step right into the corner and move up to a belay on a ledge with a rock spike. 5.10b, 170'
P4: Move right about 10' and climb a thin crack crack above the belay (5.10a), staying left when it splits. Climb an increasingly wide crack (5.8) to belay on a ramp at the base of a pillar. 5.10a, 150'
P5: Step left from the belay and climb up a slab under a roof. Step left around the roof and, with difficulty, into a left-facing corner. Weird layback and arÍte moves (5.10c) lead up the corner and onto a ledge. Small tcu's helpful. 5.10c, 50'
P6: This pitch is a gem. Climb the shallow crack straight above the belay (crux, 5.11a) to more secure jams above. Higher, the crack angles slightly right and up to a roof. Climb through the roof on jugs to a good stance, then follow steep, overhanging jugs to the top. 5.11a, 160'
Gear: Double rack up to #2 Camalot, 1 #3 Camalot.